Bleeding brakes...no luck

[RICK LAKE]

CriticalMass You didnot say how you where bleeding the system. If the fluid is not black or burnt smell you should be OK there is a kit for checking the fluid for moisture and effective ability of the fluid temp. Use DOT 3 fluid unless you are racing and then you might change it after every run or race weekend when you are doing a safety check of the brake system. If you have access to all bleeders, you will need 2 people to do this. Start with the RR caliper. Fill the RESV first. But a plastic hose over the bleeder put the other end in a bottle with some fluid in it to watch for air bubbles. Pump the pedal SLOWLY and HOLD, crack the bleeder SLOWLY. watch the fluid come out. Don't let the pedal return until the bleeder is retightened. Do this a couple of times, then go to the Left rear, then the Right front and then the left. You may need 2 quarts to do the whole system but when done the pedal should be firm and have about 1 inch of travel before you feel the brakes apply. If you have the orginial Jag calipers in the rear or GM ones in the front you may get alittle rust or brown fuild from them. You have iron calipers and steel cups. The brake fuild breaks down the coating on the cups from the moisture in it. This is the problem they had with the last 60's and early 70's vettes and these car losing there brake pedals. Try this way first, if then it still has a soft pedal get a pressure bleeder system and due it that way. Rick Lake