Currie 9 inch information?

pcoghlan · #1 (**permalink**) 06-18-2005, 08:08 AM

Picked up the Cobra a couple of days ago :-) and my first job is to repair the leaking seal(?) on the driver's side wheel.

Is there a good online source for parts/instructions for the Currie unit? I went to currieenterprises.com but not much there.

Also, I need to run out this morning and grab some oil to top it up. What is the recommended oil and is there an issue if what is already in there is different, i.e. should I drain and replenish with a single oil?

Ta
Paul

relaxinrob · #2 (**permalink**) 06-18-2005, 08:33 AM

Paul,
When you take out the 4 nuts and pull the axle, some fluid is going to come out. If is the smelly standard gear lube, then just put that back in, but if it does not smell real strong, it is probably synthetic gear lube like Amsoil. I would fill it back up with that if that is what it has in it. If it is a posi unit, dont forget to put some additive in for the posi unit, depending on how much has leaked out or comes out with the seal change.

trularin · #3 (**permalink**) 06-18-2005, 02:12 PM

Well, lets see. It is a standard nine inch Ford rear end with either 28 or 31 spline axels.

To remove the seal:

1. remove the rear tire.
2. remove the brakes.
3. there will be four T bolts holding the seal retainer to the axel tube. remove the four nuts but placing a socket through the axel face holes.
4. either the axel will pull right out or you will have to pull it.
5. The retainer is the plate that bolts to the axel tube. It will have to be free of the axel to get to the seal.
6. press everything to the reatin off the axel. 9 to 15 tons should do it.
7. remove the seal and replace with a new one.
8. press everything back on.
9. reassemble the axel into the reaend and check fluid levels.

That should get you through it.

Hope this helps.

pcoghlan · #4 (**permalink**) 06-19-2005, 07:50 AM

much appreciated, I assume a standard bearing pusher/puller can be used to remov/replace the seal, i.e. 9-15 tons?

cobrashoch · #5 (**permalink**) 06-20-2005, 09:10 PM

Yep - Just don't forget to put the bearing back in facing the right direction. (seal towards wheel) Simple thing but you'd be amazed at how many put it back wrong. If wrong it will last about 500 miles. My 9 incher's has the big bearing that has a o ring on outside of the bearing, to seal against the housing. (some don't) By the way, most racers don't run the axle housing seals. They want the extra oil on the wheel bearing esp. on road race cars. It's not there for oil control like most folks think, it's there as a vapor barrier and drag guys take em out to cut down on rolling resistance too. It's the little things that count.
cobrashock

trularin · #6 (**permalink**) 06-21-2005, 06:07 AM

What Ron said is about right. if it is in backwards ( and yes it can be put in backwards ), it lasts about 200 to 400 miles and then there is fluid everywhere.

Happened to me. I let a shop press on the seals with new bearings.

pcoghlan · #7 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 05:48 PM

OK, I removed the backing plate and half shaft. I do see fluid on the exterior of the seal so I guess it needs replacing. How do I tell if it is in backwards though?

Looking at the seal I see the inner wall is chamfered with the smaller end nearer to the center of the car and the larger side to the outside, make sense? Is this the right way round?!

Unfortunately the only puller I have won't do the job so I guess its off to Sears tomorrow.

I guess I need to replace the parking brake shoes too as they are soaked in oil :-(

Paul

pcoghlan · #8 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 06:08 PM

shot of seal which should show what I mean

Yikes! What an idiot I am. Just relaized I have been describing the bearing and not the seal!!

pcoghlan · #9 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 08:03 PM

one more try, hopefully of the right part this time! This is a shot of the seal which, based upon the post above saying the seal should be towards the wheel, appears to be on backwards?!

So, I need to bring the axle to a local shop, have the bearing pulled off, replace the seal (other way around!) and repress the bearing on?

Thanks

Rick Parker · #10 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 08:23 PM

The seal is installed correctly, however the "Other" seal is closest to the gold plate and rides on a ground surface of the axle, there is a remote chance it is leaking there. The black band/ring that you can see in the picture must be carefully inserted into the bore of the housing tube. It fits between th OD of the race and the ID of the tube. If you catch the edge of the seal or a flap is created by the seal folding, it will provide a path for leakage. You can apply a little sealer (I like "The Right Stuff" by Permatex) around the OD of the seal. The clamping of the of the seal by the bearing retainer compresses the rubber while in place and helps create the outer seal, as long as the inner seal and surfaces are OK it should serve you well.

This type of Roller Bearing will allow more thrust loading than a Sealed "Ball" type, and is the better choice if you like to Open Track but has a little more rolling resistance and since it uses the diff lube can lend itself to potential leaks as you have experienced. It also increases the track by about .100" per side compared to Sealed Ball type.

Rick

pcoghlan · #11 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 08:38 PM

Rick,

Thanks for the information. So rather than immediately remove/replace everything I guess my best first step is to carefully reassemble using a little sealer and see if I still have an issue.

Rick Parker · #12 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 08:47 PM

When you disassembled it originally was the oil leaking from the inner seal which rides on the axle shaft or was it coming from the outer diameter of the seal IE: at the parting line for the axle housing flange and bearing retainer????
Inspect the OD of the seal (black band) if it's ok reassemble carefully with a little sealer. One last thing. If the lubricant level is overfilled in the rear end itself it will lend itself to the potential of leaks. Typically lubricant is sloshed into the tubes and it migrates to the bearings but if you over fill it it will have the oil level above the bottom of the outer seal.

Rick

rblong · #13 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 09:24 PM

I took the information off the Currie tag on the diff and they sent me the build sheet and I got a manual. Here is the contact I had. "chad"

Bruce

J. T. Toad · #14 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 10:51 PM

I am sure too late
but...

www.new9inch.com

2ndly, just call them, their tech/service has always been overly friendly to me

trularin · #15 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 09:23 AM

You know, it looks like the bearing isn't pressed all the way on.

This happenes once-in-a-while, the person doing the pressing encounters a stop and thinks it is done, but in fact has about another 1/8" to go.

If the seal is new and the bearings are not pressed on, you may only need to press the bearing on the rest of the way.

Does this happen? YES!!!
Will the seal leak if the bearing isn't pressed on all the way? YES!!!
Is the seal bad? Probably from riding on the edge of the axel, maybe.

I would take this axel over and ask if the bearing can be pressed on further. If it moves another 1/8" ( or there abouts ) I would think that I might get a scale and see what ti should be pressed on all the way.

Replace the seal and measure.

Just a thought.

Rick Parker · #16 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 10:31 AM

The inner race on this type of bearing sticks out from the cone about .100+-. It may visually look like it is not fully seated on the shoulder, if the inner race is butted up against the shoulder of the seal surface then all is OK.

Rick