superformance hydraulic clutch problem

panz · #1 (**permalink**) 08-12-2005, 08:41 PM

Clutch just went out...driving back from cruise and the clutch kept catching lower and lower on petal until I had to pump clutch petal to get in gear...finally no petal what so ever. Resovour is full, in fact up to the brim. any ideas? climbed under car and clutch fork is still in line and took bar to check pressure which was strong. I believe its in the hydraulic system somewhere. Any suggestions would be helpful.

gsharapa · #2 (**permalink**) 08-13-2005, 06:41 AM

Pumping the pedal suggest you might have air in the system. You might get a friend to help you bleed it and see if some or all of your pedal comes back. I'm assuming you have the normal Hydralic SPF setup and not a Hydralic throwout bearing? If the nomal system be sure the bracket bolts that holds the Hydralic valve in place is also tight to the block, as I have seen them get loose and the system has fluid, no air problem but when you push in the pedal it pushes the bracket away from the block vs pushing the clutch in. This could be why your pedal keep going away. I know a guy with a real 427 cobra that has a simlar setup that had this problem.

panz · #3 (**permalink**) 08-13-2005, 08:53 AM

Thanks for the info...will check for tightness. Yes I do have the normal system and not the throwout bearing.

tommyboy · #4 (**permalink**) 08-15-2005, 02:41 PM

If your clutch fluid has not been changed recently you may want to change it. Go with a higher "wet" boiling point.

panz · #5 (**permalink**) 08-15-2005, 03:00 PM

tommyboy; I did just that, Bill Wells from Michigan got me in touch with a mechanic of his and he suggested to use valvoline "Synpower" as it has a very high boil point, up to 480degrees F and is rated higher then dot 3 or 4. Thanks for the suggestion.

Cobrabill · #6 (**permalink**) 08-15-2005, 06:46 PM

Panz-DO NOT use synthetic fluids!!!They swell the "O" rings and then the fluid leaves the unit.

Bill Wells · #7 (**permalink**) 08-15-2005, 07:53 PM

cobrabill... i have 11,000 miles on dot 5 in my spf and many more thouseands with dot 5 in my 57 bird and 65 mustang. however, after i installed dot 5 in the spf i was told by some that i should not have done that, at least not in a performance car. other 2 most likely ok as driving is less brisk shall we say.

however, synpower dot 5.1 is now available , and used by several spf friends . it is comatible with dot 3 and 4 ( will intermix where 5 will not if system not completely flushed ).

again no problems with 5 but i recommend to others , like panz, to use the 5.1 and alleviate the boiling problems of dot 3 .

i am sure like oils etc that the subject of dot 5 or dot 5.1 will be contentious and never solved or agreed upon.

my car is not raced, it is driven briskly and used and not abused but so far i am either lucky with 5 or it has not had enough time to negatively affect or react to the seals/ o rings..or..then again, maybe it wont.

i have heard as many folks say no as i have heard say no problem... i will be the first to report if i have any problems. bill.

Cobrabill · #8 (**permalink**) 08-15-2005, 08:40 PM

Mcleod says using synthetic is a major no-no in any of their set-ups.And i had the seals swell and blow out on mine as i originally used DOT-5 years ago.Switched to DOT-3 and have been trouble free since.
Best thing to do is contact the cylinder manufacturer.

Using a Hydraulic T/O does eliminate the heat issue though.