Hazard wiring help, please!

[vince911cobra]

I could use some help on wiring my hazards. I am trying to work with my existing wiring which does not have hazards. Here’s how it goes:

My turn signals are divided into 4 wires (2 for front/2 for back) that go to a 3 post on-off-on toggle switch. So the toggle has 2 left turn wires on left terminal, a power lead on the middle terminal and 2 right turn wires on the right terminal.

I was told to tap into the power wire and run that wire to the power terminal on a second on-off toggle switch. Then run another wire off the second terminal of new toggle switch to one of the terminals on a two terminal flasher. Finally, tap into my 4 existing turn signal wires and wire them over to the other terminal on the flasher. I should know have hazard flashers if I turn the second toggle switch on, but I don’t. I have checked for power continuity on the 12-volt side and its there throughout the flasher.

Basically I just have to have hazards for my inspection on Tuesday, could use some help or ideas. I was just really trying to piggyback off the turn signal toggle switch because it was easiest access and seemed to be the quickest,

[strictlypersonl]

The easiest way is to use the second toggle to connect the left and right terminals on the original 3-post switch. All 4 lights will flash when the signal toggle is in either left or right positions and the second toggle is on.

However - that may or may not be legal in California.

The official emergency flasher switches that I've seen lately also flash the dash lights. Frankly, it might be safer to bite the bullet and buy a real aftermarket unit.

[vince911cobra]

Strictlypersonl

Are you saying run all 4 wires to one post of the second toggle, power wire to the other post and do not use the flasher relay. If so, will this mess up or backfeed into my turn/brake converter box. Where can I get a real aftermarket unit if I need to?

Thanks

[strictlypersonl]

1/ Run a new wire from the left terminal of the signal toggle to one post of the new switch.

2/ Run a new wire from the right terminal of the signal toggle to the other post of the new toggle switch.

Everything is happening before your brake/signal relay so there won't be any interference.

[vince911cobra]

Just want to make sure I understand. You are saying use the on/off toggle switch only, no hazard flasher?. If I wire left to one side of toggle and the right to the otherside, one of the sides will be wired to the off postion ( no power) of the toggle switch. Am I missing something here or having a brain fade. It seems that if I bring one of the wires to the no power or closed side of the toggle I will not be energizing both L/R turnlights and will not achieve the hazard effect.

[strictlypersonl]

No flasher - just the two wires and the toggle switch. Look at the Q&D at the bottom of this diagram. None of the stuff at the top is neccessary.

[vince911cobra]

Thanks for the detail, I could'nt ask for anything better. I work for the fire department and just found out I have to work OT tomorrow, so I won't be able to work on the car till Tuesday morning. Lets hope its a quick fix, if so I still can make my inspection date. Thanks again!!!!!!

[jperickson2001]

Strictly has it right. If you are unsure Vince, take a small piece of wire and put two alligator clips on it and shunt them together as a test and you will see. Simple-John

[jarendall]

this should work, if you have the four bulb (two tier lights, right and left) on the rear of your car, if you have the single bulb (Lucas type lights one light left and right) this will not work with the flasher wiring shown above

[vince911cobra]

Still does not work!! From the best that I can tell from laying upside down wrapped up in a ball under the dash, here is what’s happening and here is what I have.

I wired according to Strictly, should have been simple enough. When I now turn the second toggle switch on with either left or right blinker I get front amber lights hazarding correctly. The rears do nothing unless I hit the brake, then I have rear hazards.

Currently, looks like former owner, to keep the race car look, used covered toggle switches, using a five post toggle for the head light switch. Switch feels like it is off/on/on.

Best I can tell is not a whole lot from figuring out what is what. Its not really a bad wiring job, I just don’t know how they customized the splits. Currently, when you turn the headlight toggle on you get parking lights, next position you get headlights with no front amber light. I then spliced into the amber light wire and ran it to the dimmer switch. Now I have headlights with ambers, good you say, but there’s more. My front turn signals will not work with headlights on. If I disconnect amber splice , the turn signals work if front headlights are on but will not stay on all the time with the headlights on
.

On the headlight toggle, they were using top 2 terminals (side by side) and middle 2 terminals ( vertical) but not using solo bottom terminal.

On the converter, we are not using the brown wires (tail) on the box.

I feel like I am one or two wires away from correcting but still no luck. I don’t think it’s a bad toggle switch because I can get parking lights in first position.

All bulbs are dual filaments , and I have dual tail lights. Everything on the rears work fine except for what I mentioned with the hazards earlier.

[jarendall]

if you know how to use a volt and ohm meter, you need to trace out the system, make a drawing as you go, without knowing how the lights are wired, it is hard to give you advice on them, make a block drawing as shown above