%#@)*& air valve holder

[lineslinger]

I have been trying to pressurize (air) the cylinders on my engine so I can replace the inner springs on my valve train.
I tried to use the 14-18mm "flexible air valve holder" built by performance Tool co..
The problem is that once I get the the hose fitting threaded into the spark plug hole on the RPM Performer FE heads, there is no way to tighten the hose fitting enough so that it won't leak down pressure in a few seconds.
The insert fitting is too short to get a wrench on to snug it up once it's down in there and the spark plug inlet hole is too narrow to insert any type of tool to tighten the damn thing up.
Can anyone recommend an alternative tool, fitting, or an adaptor that is compatible with the narrow spark plug holes on these heads?

Mark

[392cobra]

I ran into this same problem once.

I remembered an old 'backyard' trick that worked like a charm.

I fed 1/4" poly rope down the hole and wrenched the engine over to push the rope to the top of the cylinder.

Worked with zero problems and went very quick.

[trularin]

I have four or five fittings for doing this. The trick for me was the large O'Ring that is around each one. I lube the O'ring with Parker Seal lube before pressurizing the cylinder.

The rope trick works okay for me as well.

Hope this helps.

Oh, yeah, my tool for presurizing the cylinders is made by Snap On.

[lineslinger]

I thought about filling the cylinder with something other than air, the poly rope doesn't leave any residual material in the chamber?
Tru...I am not familiar with Parker Seal Lube, similar to maybe pipe joint compound? Does the Snap On fitting "perform" well? (Or am I just in a tizzy and not reading straight )
Mark

[Rick Parker]

I'm not sure I understand your dilema. Crank each cylinder in to TDC position either manually or with a remote starter button with an eye on the timing marks (90 degrees between cylinders in firing order). Set the parking brake, put trans in top (4th? gear). Insert the hose and leave it connected to the pressure source. Should work. Similar to doing a leakdown test. If you don't have one you should be able to find a hose with the adapters at an inexpensive price.

[cobred]

Mark, tighten the hose by hand is enough. Are you trying to fill the cyl. and then removing the air supply? You have to leave the air connected untill each valve is done. Also. keep the trans. in neutral so the engine will turn each time you plug the air into the next cyl.

[lineslinger]

Rick,
The air presure is leaking out of the hole in the cylinder head where the spark plug is inserted/screwed in. I can't screw the air hose fitting down tight enough to get a good seal due to lack of room/space for a wrench to tighten it up, thus, air seepage.
Where do I look for adaptors, any clues?

Mark

[Rick Parker]

I think you can find them on any of the tool trucks Such as Mac, Snap On, and others. NAPA Auto parts house should have them, maybe even Harbor Freight. Just be sure the adapter fitting to your air source is compatible, many of them look similar. Generally there is a rubber "O" ring at the spark plug hole. Be certain that the threaded part that screws into the head is no longer than the "reach" of your spark plugs. The reason for putting the vehicle in gear, and setting the parking brake is to prevent the crank from turning when the air pressure is applied. Keep the air pressure applied while working on the car. It will be normal to hear some minor leakage past the rings, which will be audible through the oil breather.