Intake gasket droop

Tom Wells · #1 (**permalink**) 09-27-2006, 10:28 AM

Just had Old Faithful at the rear driver's side of the intake manifold. Turns out the intake gasket most folks use doesn't work long-term. In my case it was at 15K miles give or take.

Here's a link to some details: http://www.firstcoastcobraclub.com/v...c.php?f=8&t=13

If you have this intake gasket, sooner or later.......................................

Sorry 'bout that,

Tom

Bryan Wilson · #2 (**permalink**) 09-27-2006, 11:29 AM

Seems a common problem Tom.

Caused me to miss the Saturday fun at the 2003 Cobra Nationals

Cheers,
Bryan

Tony Aprile · #3 (**permalink**) 09-27-2006, 11:52 AM

Tom
Had that happen first with FEL-PROs after only 2000 miles and similar problems with Mr Gasket Ultra-seals after that...now I use Victor Reinz composite !!!

Tony

T E Lewis · #4 (**permalink**) 09-27-2006, 03:32 PM

Tom,

Same problem at about 1500 miles with the 460. Showed up first checking the oil, started seeing a little water in the oil. Pulled the intake, front portside at water passage looked just like your pic. Thought it might be just a fluke, and yes you guessed it, put in another set of Fel-pro's, now I read this thread.

Good news is the the motor is out of the EM right now, and before I put it in the SPF, I WILL change the intake gaskets.

Tell Kay we say HI.

The Dreamer · #5 (**permalink**) 09-28-2006, 08:23 PM

Tom,

I had the same problem. Elder and I are guessing most are using RTV with Printoseal (sp?) type gaskets and gaskets are getting too compressed. I went with the Victor Reinz gaskets as well.

Rick Parker · #6 (**permalink**) 09-28-2006, 09:17 PM

Tom: Your picture looks as if the entire gasket shifted downward and caused significant misalignment. This could have happened upon installation.

There were lengthy discussions about 3 years ago regarding the type of coolant being used and the compatability of some of the elastomers used on the (head and intake) gaskets to create the sealing rings around coolant passages. It was found that some of the coolants were not compatible with certain brand gaskets due to the makeup of the elastomers. This is why new vehicle New Vehicle Manufacturers are specific about what type coolant to use. Due to the computer meldowns that information may be lost (?)

Tom Wells · #7 (**permalink**) 09-29-2006, 12:46 PM

Hey Rick,

I think you are correct about the gasket misalignment.

I respectfully disagree about the cause: the gasket was glued in using 3M trim adhesive in a very thin layer and was correctly positioned. It lasted 15K miles. If it had been improperly positioned the problem, logically, would have shown up right away instead of three years later.

I believe the gasket moved during heat cycling. Look at the other two engines - the FE and the 351 - and you will see similar movement.

Also, there are four other respondents (above) whose engines look exactly the same after using these same gaskets. That's a total of seven engines assembled by competent, sentient and skilled mechanics (well, I know that at least in my case, it was

). It is possible, but not probable that all of us put the gaskets in improperly.

BTW, four of the eight intake ports had developed leaks due to premature gasket withdrawal - two at the top and two at the bottom - so I believe it's more than just a cooling system problem.

These Printoseal gaskets are apparently intended for a low number of expansion/contraction heat cycles as experienced in racing engines. They have no reinforcement to keep them from distorting, which the Victor Reinz do, and are probably intended for replacement every so many races.

We'll see!

Tom

JAM1775 · #8 (**permalink**) 10-01-2006, 04:24 PM

Had the same thing happen to my 351W Felpro 1262 intake gasket.
And yeah...I installed another Felpro. That's all I could get in a hurry. This winter I will pull it for a metal lined intake gasket before it happens again. I may first follow Tony's advice and go with the Victor Reinz composite. The new FMS race gasket, made for Ford Racing by Felpro is metal lined and may also now be available. The shape of my Felpro gasket ports were severely distorted. I concluded the Felpro 1262 is no longer the gasket for me.

SuperHart · #9 (**permalink**) 10-01-2006, 04:44 PM

Hey, you could always dip the gasket in Viagra to stiffen it up.

Oh Lord, I apologize for that one.

sllib · #10 (**permalink**) 10-05-2006, 06:03 AM

Who sells the Victor Reinz composite gaskets? I did a search but came up with a bunch of "Gaskets-R-Us" type places, none of which I recognized. My own Fel-Pro's, recommended by AFR for my heads, are getting droopy from porting my intake and I'd like to head off a potential problem. Thanks.
Bill Stradtner

Tony Aprile · #11 (**permalink**) 10-05-2006, 07:39 AM

I ordered my VR gaskets thru NAPA auto parts.

Took a few days to come in !!

undy · #12 (**permalink**) 10-05-2006, 08:43 AM

or... Car quest. If you've got a local hot rod parts shop locally they can usually order a set too.

cwmcobra · #13 (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 04:11 AM

Hi Tom,

I have the same problem with my 514. I've had small coolant puddles under the car for the last 2-3 years. I've retorqued the intake a couple of times, but that didn't hold. I see the gaskets extruding out of the corners of the intake. The final straw was what I thought was a header leak; backfiring from the right bank. Tightened the header, but didn't solve the problem. Pulled the plugs and found the right rear plug oil fouled. Obviously, the intake was pulling oil from the valley of the block! I retorqued the manifold again, changed the plug and it's been OK. But, it's time to fix a couple of other problems as well, so the engine is out of the car (to do the other fixes, like replacing the ring gear on the flywheel) and I've purchased the Victor Reinz intake gasket.

Do you have any advice on how to avoid dumping coolant into the block valley when removing the manifold? I've obviously drained the radiator and quite a bit of coolant escaped from the water pump while the engine was tipped at different angles during removal. I'd like to keep the coolant out of the valley and the oil if possible.

One more comment. I ordered the Victor Reinz gaskets from NAPA online and they sent me the wrong set. I had to reorder, supposedly to get the right parts. Meanwhile, a set of the correct gaskets showed up on my doorstep. Yesterday, I got an email from NAPA saying they cancelled my new order because the gaskets are out of stock and they are not sure they will get more. When I checked with about 5 NAPA stores in this area, none had them in stock and, get this......they tried to sell me Fel-Pro gaskets! Told me they are selling out the Victor Reinz line and replacing with Fel-Pro. Could be a problem finding these recommended gaskets in the near future.

15,000 miles; I'm envious. Only 5,000 on mine and we built at around the same time. Must be the difference of Florida vs. Michigan.

Chuck

Tony Aprile · #14 (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwmcobra

Do you have any advice on how to avoid dumping coolant into the block valley when removing the manifold? I've obviously drained the radiator and quite a bit of coolant escaped from the water pump while the engine was tipped at different angles during removal. I'd like to keep the coolant out of the valley and the oil if possible.

Chuck
I have replaced mine several times over the past 4 years and as long as the radiator is drained and water level is lower then the thermostat housing you should be ok, Remove the T-stat housing first before removing the manifold and soak up as much the remaining coolant with paper towels or wet dry vac, there shouldn't be much.

Tony

cwmcobra · #15 (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 07:57 AM

I have already removed the thermostat and housing and have done my best with paper towels to remove coolant. Sounds like I'm good to go.

I appreciate the advice.

Chuck

STCinc · #16 (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 08:57 AM

To add my two cents, I've had to replace two ses of gaskets on my 351/427 stroker. Not a hrad job to replace but a PIA.

I'm also looking for a good set of gaskets that will not need to be replaced each season.

cwmcobra · #17 (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 09:39 AM

STC,

I have no experience with small blocks, but for the 385 series there is resounding recommendation on the boards for the Victor Reinz Nitroseal gaskets. The one I purchased is the only gasket besides the Fel-Pro that is designed for the larger ports of the CobraJet heads. I don't know if Victor Reinz makes a similar gasket for your application, but you might do some research on that. NAPA is (or was?) the only distributor of the VR line. And hurry; it seems NAPA is planning to close out the line based on my latest inquiries with them.

Chuck

barabar · #18 (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 10:36 AM

Sounds like a common problem. But I have to ask---Are you mating aluminum to iron? or aluminum to aluminum? And are both surfaces machined?

Tony Aprile · #19 (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STCinc

To add my two cents, I've had to replace two ses of gaskets on my 351/427 stroker. Not a hrad job to replace but a PIA.

I'm also looking for a good set of gaskets that will not need to be replaced each season.

STC
Some of the local SB guys have talked about the New Steel reinforced intake gaskets that Ford Racing Parts sells for the 351W.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/main.asp

I have not seen them as yet and don't know the quality.

The Victor Reinz catalog shows several intake gaskets for a 351W depending on the intake port size. Download the catalog (pdf file)

http://www.engineparts.com/pubs_detail.asp?c=1&id=95

Tony

Tom Wells · #20 (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 02:26 PM

Chuck,

Sorry for late response - in class all day...

I changed my intake gaskets with the engine in its normal position in the car. I drained the radiator as completely as possible but took no other precautions

A few drops probably escaped into the engine, but I used the paper towel, then changed the oil after the engine was reassembled, but before I started it again. It now has a few thousand more miles on it including some track time and (knock on wood) so far so good. I used the Victor Reinz gaskets.

The most difficult part was using the gasket scraper to remove all traces of the gaskets. I taped cardboard over the valley to (try to) prevent any detritus from falling in, and feel I was pretty successful at it.

Let us know how you make out!

Tom