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Anybody here in the concrete business?
I can't really make a bunch of phone calls so I was hoping maybe some of you could help me out.
I just bought a new house which has a 1 1/2 car dirt floor garage. that is just not going to cut it for me so I would like to knockdown and rebuild a new garage or add to the current one to end up with a 3 car with a concrete floor. I'm getting alot of conflicting #'s on cost of a slab. I want to know what a slab would cost to be poured. I would do all the work, All I need is a cost on the pouring. The slab would be about 900 sq ft 4" thick. Thanks! |
Not sure what you mean
I don't know prices in your area but in my area of Florida you would be able to buy concrete for a slab for under $100 per cubic yard
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11.111 yards of concrete @ $90-$100 w/fiber. Plus the pouring cost approx.$600. I would budget for $2000.
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Thanks, that is about what I was getting as one estimate and outrageous like $8000+ were some of the others. I live in north western PA and I do know people who know people who own concrete businesses. I just wanted to get an idea what it'd cost to see if I'll be able to I was going to be able to afford a full slab or not. $2000-2500, no problem. $8000+, not likely! haha
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If your mother in law suddenly "disappears", we'll know where to look first!:D
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Suggest wire mesh or rebar for strength to avoid cracking.
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Fiber mesh also works well. Just a little fuzzy sometimes.
Don't forget about the stone for under the garage floor concrete. |
My brother in law works for a gravel pit. This is how I know people who know people! haha
That could be a good idea about the mother in law.... My wife would even go for it! haha :LOL: |
I had 1000 sq ft added to my shop and a 11' x 50' driveway, about 24 yds total. Cost $3600 for material and labor. Concrete cost $90 plus here. I asked three concrete finisher if they would use fiber or wire for their our slab and they all said,wire.
Dwight http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ab_June_07.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ve_in_June.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...e_complete.JPG |
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If so,are you going to build forms or build a bolck foundation? I would pour 6 inches of 3500 psi concrete and reinforce it with 1/2 in rebar on a 12inx12in grid topped with # 10 wire. You might also think about adding radiant heat piping in the floor. For just the slab 6in thick you will need about 17 yards for 900 sg ft.$80 to 100 per yd. I'm in Chester County Pa if I can help,PM me |
Do the job your self,stop at a job site ask for concret mason's and pay them by the day $300?.Call different yards for price need 12 yards 3500psi always extra+wire+ expancion joint every8to10 feet.$!080.for 12 yards, 600 two
mason's 300.two labor's 300 maybe material=$1980.+- |
Consider adding some good anchor points in the concrete, you never know when they will come in handy. Either pad eyes, or just some steel that you could weld something to if needed.
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Most people use 2x4 to set up slab which would make slab 3 1/2" deep. One yard of concrete will cover 80 sq feet 3 1/2" deep. Side point if you plan on two post lift pour 6" deep area where will go.
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The reason for the different pricing is typically the contractors them selves and usually directly dependeent on the quality. You need to be more specific on what you want then you will get closer pricing.
I would recomend: 4in thinck 3,000psi concrete slab w/ hard trowel finish, 2in sand subgrade over 6in compacted native soil, No. 4 rebar at 18in on center at mid slab, 12 in deep min. edge footing and contraction joints no more than 20ft each way. Contraction joints can be either soft-cut methode or construction joints-contractors option. Tell this to the contractors and not only will he think you know what you want but you will get a very nice quality job and not go broke doing it. After placement keep it wet for about a week and you will be very happy. Good luck. |
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Thanksa for all the help guys! Now I just have to fire up the autocad and design my new garage! |
Back to work you
When are you heading back to good ols Bucca? I leave in 19 and a wake up.
Man I can't wait. Gregg H Chillin in Baghdad |
I'm already back to "good ol bucca!" haha How long you gonna be gone?
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Concrete is always guaranteed to crack. The rebar and wire only keep the cracks from seperating. You definetly want a footing at the perimiter where your walls will be anchored, which will require anchor bolts (J-Bolts) imbedded 12" from the corners and 30" in the field. Atleast in California. I don't know the specs or building codes in your area but you might want to check them out before you start pouring. Also don't forget the moisture barrier, usually 6 mil poly sheeting with an inch of sand above and 2" below. This will keep moisture from wicking up through the floor from the ground below. You have had good advice from the others imo. I just wanted to add.
John |
Local code requires 8" footings I believe. I will definitely do more research before I start. Rebar will be used, I will buy it by the pound at the scrap yard.
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Don't you guys have something crazy like a 4' to 6' frost line? What ever you're doing, you don't want the thing heaving on you. But then, what do I know, I'm just a GC.
Good luck |
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