Brake Light Switch Question??????

[EarlsflyinCobra]

I have been doing a little research on brake light switch wiring and am more confused now than when I started. Basically I have found that there are two types (that I have found) to use;

First there is the mechanical button switch that contacts some part of the brake pedal rod, depressing the button, and when the brake is applied it turns on the brake lights by the button being released. If using a Ford pedal system this type would be easy to use however I am using a Wilwood reverse pedal system and would have to fabricate a bracket for the switch. (Not a major problem or a lot of work). I have done a couple of google searches for a switch of this type that works with the Wilwood system but have not found one.

Second there is the Hydraulic switch that goes into the brake line and senses a pressure change in fluid activating the brake lights. I have found several negatives about this switch saying it is unreliable and subject to carbon buildup???? Also, since I am running seperate front and rear master cylinders and hydraulic lines I was wondering if this type switch is used should it go in the front system, the rear system, or one in each system??

So, now I am wondering if I should run both types for redundancy, since BRAKE LIGHTS ARE IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please, someone UNCONFUSE me...........LOL

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by EarlsflyinCobra

I have been doing a little research on brake light switch wiring and am more confused now than when I started. Basically I have found that there are two types (that I have found) to use;

First there is the mechanical button switch that contacts some part of the brake pedal rod, depressing the button, and when the brake is applied it turns on the brake lights by the button being released. If using a Ford pedal system this type would be easy to use however I am using a Wilwood reverse pedal system and would have to fabricate a bracket for the switch. (Not a major problem or a lot of work). I have done a couple of google searches for a switch of this type that works with the Wilwood system but have not found one.

Second there is the Hydraulic switch that goes into the brake line and senses a pressure change in fluid activating the brake lights. I have found several negatives about this switch saying it is unreliable and subject to carbon buildup???? Also, since I am running seperate front and rear master cylinders and hydraulic lines I was wondering if this type switch is used should it go in the front system, the rear system, or one in each system??

So, now I am wondering if I should run both types for redundancy, since BRAKE LIGHTS ARE IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please, someone UNCONFUSE me...........LOL

Take the time and make the bracket for the switch.
I am running the hydraulic switch and it takes a lot of pressure to keep it on and it is a little late coming on at that.
I notice it will not stay on with my foot on the brake at a stop light unless I apply some good pressure.
I know all mt early Fords had the same set up but they were big iron.
I might changing the switch first to see if it is just the switch but I am still going to change mine over.

This conversion to a switch on the brake pedal is my next project.

What switches have you found that you like?

[undy]

..can't remember where I got it from.. but ...(CRS at it's finest)

Now what was I talking about?? O yea, they make a hydraulic actuated brake switch which acts with minimal pressure, about a 6psi delta as I remember. With my old switch I had to stand on the bakes to get my lights to come on. At an intersection with light pedal action I always had no brake lights. With the new switch minimal pressure actuates the lights. As I remember the switch was about 20 bucks.. I'll see if I can dig up an old receipt or email about it..

Dave

[J Persons]

Talk to Mike Forte at www.fortesparts.com He sells a mechanical switch for use with the Wilwood pedal system. He also has a bracket that will integrate the switch with the pedals, but it's designed for use with a FFR chassis.

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by undy

..can't remember where I got it from.. but ...(CRS at it's finest)

Now what was I talking about?? O yea, they make a hydraulic actuated brake switch which acts with minimal pressure, about a 6psi delta as I remember. With my old switch I had to stand on the bakes to get my lights to come on. At an intersection with light pedal action I always had no brake lights. With the new switch minimal pressure actuates the lights. As I remember the switch was about 20 bucks.. I'll see if I can dig up an old receipt or email about it..

Dave

Try to find the part number, please. I have a new switch in my parts cabinet that I was going to try. I will have to look but I think it is a low pressure one.

[john chesnut]

I have used both systems. The low pressure hyd switches work well and I haven't had a failure in over 7 years and 60,000 miles of driving. Running one per system is good cheap insurance.
I have also used Fotes for other parts and have been happy with his components. Either way, have fun, and be safe! John

[Ron61]

Earl,

I used the mechanical one for over 10 years and never had a failure. You never mentioned this, but I also used a neutral cut off switch so the car couldn't be started unless it was in neutral.

Ron

[767Jockey]

Ron Francis wiring sells a low pressure brake light switch that's a redesign and supposedly works very well.

[GlynMeek]

Lonestar Classics Cobras come with the hydraulic switch, but overall the mechanical one looked far simpler and 'less messy' to install and has worked perfectly FOR ME! Had to fabricate the bracket, but what the heck, it IS a custom car...LOL.

Reading this thread (which I am sure has just started...lol), you've got about 50% for the hydraulic, and 50% for the mechanical...both work, and perceptions of complexity or difficulty will vary for both, so it pretty much comes down to personal preference I think!

Glyn

PS Ron...how did you wire the 'neutral' cut off switch? Is there an appropriate 'output signal' coming out of your transmission, somewhere. I have a T56 Tremec, and the only 'output' I can find is related to a 'reverse gear' solenoid!

[undy]

Originally Posted by Naumoff

Try to find the part number, please. I have a new switch in my parts cabinet that I was going to try. I will have to look but I think it is a low pressure one.

I checked and I bought it off ebay.. Here's the exact one that I got..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hydra...spagenameZWDVW

Dave

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by undy

I checked and I bought it off ebay.. Here's the exact one that I got..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hydra...spagenameZWDVW

Dave

Thanks Undy

[427 S/O]

Same as John, low pressure switch and no problems. Auto mfg. used them for decades.

[bret a ewing]

NAPA sells those rare switches.

[Rwillia4]

You can get a hydro switch for a 78-84 VW rabbit/jetta and it works well at low pressures it is not very expensive

[bret a ewing]

I believe the NAPA PN# is SL147. ~$13.

[undy]

Originally Posted by bret a ewing

NAPA sells those rare switches.

Not for $9.50 to your door step though..

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by Rwillia4

You can get a hydro switch for a 78-84 VW rabbit/jetta and it works well at low pressures it is not very expensive

Are they metric?

[Rwillia4]

Originally Posted by Naumoff

Are they metric?

Good question? I'm not sure

[EarlsflyinCobra]

Okay, some good information and discussion here. Still one unanswered part to my question....if I use the hydraulic switch, and my front and rear brakes are independent of each other, do I put it in the front system, the rear system, or one in each system? I guess I could be anal about it and put one in each line, as well as a mechanical switch....talk about redundancyI guess I get that from the airplane mechanic side of my brain...LOL

[Ron61]

Earl,

Running one per system is good cheap insurance.


See post # 6.

Ron