MSD Distributor question

[Mark Brye]

Last year I had an issue where my engine, when warmed up would start to creap up about 400 RPM at idle. I did a search and found tons of information. I had found a post that mentioned that my mechanical advance springs may be to light, causing my advance to not come back to its centered position at idle. I found that puting in one heavier spring cured my problem. I noticed at that time that when I rotated the rotor, that the rotor would snap right back to center when I let go. (had two light springs after car had been dyno'd)
Now yesterday, I noticed a backfire in the engine at lower speeds. Just a pop here and there. I took the cap and rotor off because I seem to go through the MSD cap and rotors every 500 or so miles. But the cap and rotor looked good. When puting the rotor back in, I noticed that when I would rotate the rotor, it would not come back to center when I let go. I put in replacement springs of the same weight but it seems like the mechanical advance is sticking or gummed up. Maybe from all the carbon dust from the crappy MSD coils and caps I go through.
My question is, what should I use to clean the mechanical advance mechanisms? Carb cleaner? Does the distributor have to come out of the engine for cleaning? I don't want to harm the magnetic pic up by not using the correct cleaner. I hope this will fix my newly found miss in the engine.

Thanks!

[vector1]

i would blow compressed air to get all the dust out, then use something like startng fluid if there looks to be a bunch of gummed up stuff then use a silicon spray on the moving parts if they need relube unless grease is required.

msd might have some helpful tips on their website.

[Rick Parker]

There are some black plastic pads under the fly weights that they slide on. Sometimes these get worn out and need to be replaced. To prevent the wear between the the cap and rotor be CERTAIN the spring blade on the top of the rotor is contacting the center button. Use a little dialectic grease as a marking compound if needed. If it is not touching, arcing will take place and excess wear will create the aformentioned dust in the cap. It will also put additional load on the secondary ignition system. Brake cleaner and compressed air will remove the dust.

[Mark Brye]

Thanks guys! I tried just using compressed air and I think I will need to use some brake cleaner as its still gumed up. Can I do this while the distibutor is in the engine or should I take it out for cleaning and lubing?

Thanks again!

[Rick Parker]

Put some Brake or Carb cleaner on a rag and clean the interior of the distributor body. Use compressed air then to blow out the remainder and dust. It would be better, although more involved to remove it from the engine. Also, put a drop of oil on the flyweight pivot points. The Carb or Brake cleaner will not harm the nylon or plastic pads and various other small pieces within the distributor, nor the cap or rotor.

[vector1]

careful with your plastic parts and brake/carb cleaner.

[Tom Kirkham]

Originally Posted by Mark Brye

...I seem to go through the MSD cap and rotors every 500 or so miles...

I would bet that you have a phasing problem with your distributor. You may need to switch the wires between the distributor and your spark box. Your spark box is firing when the rotor is between post. This makes the arc gap between the rotor and the cap terminal huge. This is what is causing the red dust I bet you have under the rotor.

[Cobrabill]

What Tom said and then take the distributor COMPLETELY apart,clean it,lube it and re-assemble.

[zrayr]

WD-40 also will flush out the gummy residue, and evaporate without leaving problems behind.

Z. Ray

[Rick Parker]

From my experience, if it were a phasing issue it wouldn't run past about 4000- 4500 RPM.