Roller lifter link bars

onefastmustang · #1 (**permalink**) 10-19-2009, 05:32 PM

So does it matter if the link bars are on the inside of the motor or face the outside? The crane cams (Ford) ones that I bought didn't come with any instructions to that matter.

bobcowan · #2 (**permalink**) 10-19-2009, 05:39 PM

Doesn't matter, just drop them in.

patrickt · #3 (**permalink**) 10-19-2009, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onefastmustang

So does it matter if the link bars are on the inside of the motor or face the outside? The crane cams (Ford) ones that I bought didn't come with any instructions to that matter.

I don't know about Crane's, but Comp's say the following:

Quote:

Installation:
If your new lifters utilize a link bar, inspect them for the word “UP”, or an arrow (↑) indicating the direction of installation. These should face toward the center of the engine. It is also recommended to verify lifter bore to lifter clearance. COMP recommends .0015-.002” clearance here.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../Files/122.pdf

onefastmustang · #4 (**permalink**) 10-19-2009, 06:31 PM

I was reading this article and this picture had me a bit concerned.. I already have the motor back together and it runs fine but I don't want it to look like that..

patrickt · #5 (**permalink**) 10-19-2009, 06:52 PM

Dang, well the first sentence in the Crane Roller Tappet Installation Instructions says: The guide bar (high side of tappet) must face the outside of the block. http://69.20.53.62/pdf/240e.pdf

onefastmustang · #6 (**permalink**) 10-19-2009, 07:06 PM

Perfect.. I thought Crane was dead and gone.. This paper would have been great in my packaging. Luckily I installed them outbound..

thanks for finding this.

Gaz64 · #7 (**permalink**) 10-20-2009, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onefastmustang

I was reading this article and this picture had me a bit concerned.. I already have the motor back together and it runs fine but I don't want it to look like that..

Looking at that pic, I'd say the cam may be too aggressive for the tie-bar design.
The link may have "topped out" with one valve closed and the other fully open, something had to give.

There's a lot of bad design roller lifter mechanisms just waiting for failure,
magnets near the oil drains in the valley area are highly recommended.

I'd always believe the "links" should be high on the lifter since some engines won't allow the lifters to be fitted the other way.

RICK LAKE · #8 (**permalink**) 10-20-2009, 03:08 AM

onefastmustang I have my links to the other side in my aftermarket FE block. No problems after 3 years of racing. It's alot more important the the links are not binding and get plenty of oil to the pivots. You need to make sure that you go through the complete 360 degrees of cam shaft turning with the heads and pushrods and the there is still play in the link with one lifter at max lift and the other at base circle of the camshaft. If they are binding, you can extend the slot in the bar with a FILE. "NO HIGH SPEED GRINDER" to have enough free play. The other thing is maken sure that the lifters are no twisting eash other in there bores. Another thing you might want to do is install and epoxy screens in the oil returns over the camshafts. This will keep the broken parts in the valley and not let them fall into the lifter camshaft area to do major damage to the motor if a failure of the bar happens. Have the lifters checked and rebuilt after 5k of hard driving and 12K of normal driving. Look for rubbing,blueing, and binding on the links. The maintainance approach. will give your motor many more miles of life with only and intake gasket costing you to do.
Take you time when checking all lifters. You may have to bent the bars to get them true and straight on the camshaft lobes. Rick L.