Belt drive

Caprimaniac · #1 (**permalink**) 12-03-2009, 02:41 AM

Hi.

I'm opting for a belt drive. Might be overkill; I'm not sure.... Will the double roller hold up to 8000 rpm+? And the ease of adjusting camtiming at the dyno...

What i found on Summit is CCA-6535. It is listed for SVO blocks.
Does anyone know if this bolts up to a std. 302 block? If not; what adjustments has to be done?

Any other suggestions for a belt drive? DannyBee have one; not? Others?

(Right now I got a flashback; didn't i post this question earlier? Couldn't find anything by searching...!)

rUs

RICK LAKE · #2 (**permalink**) 12-03-2009, 03:26 AM

Caprimaniac Rus I have a Daany bee going on my 498 motor.
Here's the thing You have no cover to keep it clean and debry getting in the teeth. It doesn't make the most HP. Line up and correct camshaft end play are very tight. A street car may not be the best for this in the long run. Price for it is high, about $600-800.00 dollars a good Cloyes roller timing set about $225.00 and 100K life with oiling directed to the chain.
Good things, COOL AS HELL, adjustments made in 10 minutes. Vibrations in the motor reduced. Neat sound when running. Have been told the belt will last about 50K miles.

The other thing is how big and strong are the valve springs, lift total on the camshaft will all come into play with belt life on this setup. NO oil on the belt. Not even sure if a belt dressing is OK. We will see. Ps carry a spare belt and tools to repair on the side of the road. Should be able to slide in without pulling the front of the motor apart. Looks tight but doable. Rick L. Ps make sure it fits the block. Oil pan sealing is important too. May go from a gasket to RTV. Watch back pressure in the motor, may want to add a low pressure vacuum system with a 2-4 psi pull. Good luck Rick L.

Caprimaniac · #3 (**permalink**) 12-03-2009, 04:46 AM

Hi, Rick.

In mye experience, dry, open belts are of little concern, even when used regulary. We use that on Cosworth turbo, for instance. May change every 2. year , or 5. for that matter. But a spare belt; yes- will have one by my side.

At extreme valvespring pressures, I can see there might be a problem.I'm running a solid roller cam, with quite high pressueres. But no daily driver.

As for the Danny Bee: It goes straight on the 302. But what about the CompCams item, which is listed for the SVO block? Can I bolt it onto a std. 302 block?

Runs

vector1 · #4 (**permalink**) 12-03-2009, 06:27 AM

svo and front of prod block should be the same. belt drives with the idler are suspect imo because of the idler bearing, some use ceramic but still wouldn't do it myself. i use a jesel, more $, but simple and reliable. if the belt breaks while on the road another won't help, i think these engines are interference type. after i got my engine up and running i didn't mess with the cam adjustment, would probably only come into play if you were serious and on a dyno. make sure you have a good strong cam, there is a bit of belt tension till things become accustomed to their new home. i used one on an aluminum block and the expansion stretched the belt and ruined the front cam bearing.

Rick Parker · #5 (**permalink**) 12-03-2009, 08:40 AM

These really caught my eye several years ago when they hit the market and I was close to purchasing one. The reality is they are more of a development tool to allow for quick adjustments under controlled environments, they absorb more HP than a good sproket & chain. For a daily driver it would serve no real purpose. If it was on a drag race only car, it could be used as a tuning tool for different track or possibly climatic conditions, after refering to your data and log book so you knew what to expect for specific adjustments (having previously made anticipated changes on a dyno and noted resulting changes). Certainly a great conversation piece and the envy of those without but really can't see it serving any purpose on a daily driver. Like a belt setup on any OEM application in an "Interferance" engine, if the belt breaks, you don't get a second chance. JMO

vector1 · #6 (**permalink**) 12-03-2009, 01:49 PM

from my research and what i remember the belt absorbed less power at all but the highest rpm's, where this type of chain was right with the belt at higher rpm's, the roller absorbed more power throughout the rpm range.

http://www.partsmaxx.com/HY-VO-TIMIN...P2340C199.aspx

RICK LAKE · #7 (**permalink**) 12-04-2009, 02:42 AM

Caprimanic They tested a gear drive, timing chain, and belt drive. The belt drive only did well in the adjustment department, it's was quieter then the Gear drive and removed more harmonics then the timing chain. Gears where more accurate, timing chain easier to install and made the more midrange power. It's a choice thing. Mine 498 is track motor only and I am not running big valve spring pressures. I am looking in another direction for valve train design. Lighter is better. Rick L.

jezzicaz789 · #8 (**permalink**) 01-27-2010, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caprimaniac

Hi.

I'm opting for a belt drive. Might be overkill; I'm not sure.... Will the double roller hold up to 8000 rpm+? And the ease of adjusting camtiming at the dyno...

What i found on Summit is CCA-6535. It is listed for SVO blocks.
Does anyone know if this bolts up to a std. 302 block? If not; what adjustments has to be done?

Any other suggestions for a belt drive? DannyBee have one; not? Others?

(Right now I got a flashback; didn't i post this question earlier? Couldn't find anything by searching...!)

rUs

Hi l!
I've just visited this forum. Happy to get acquainted with you. Thanks.