Help with first oil change.

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by Hooch

Thanks... Where were you guys when I was building this thing. I'm embarrassed to say that I do not know the torque spec for my drain plug.... I was looking for info on viscosity, conventional vs synthetic, additives, brand etc...

A lot depends on usage. For general street use, pick a good standard dino oil, and change it every 5K miles or once a year.

If you're going to be racing, you'll develope a lot of heat. For that use, pick a true synthetic, it will handle the heat better. And change it more often.

AFAIK, there are only 4 true synthetics on the marke: Royal Purple, Red Line, Amsoil, and another I can never remember. Notice that Mobile 1 is NOT on the list.

For viscosity, pick the one that miantians your oil pressure. For most engines, 5W-30 is plenty. More viscosity is not better.

For a filter, avoid Fram, one of the worst on the market. I use either motorcraft or Purolater Pro-1.

For additives, I use a break in additive to increase the ZDDP levels. I get the Comp Cams additive from Summit. I use it with every oil change. In theory, it prevents glassification of the cylinder walls. I also use it in my diesel pick up, because it has flat tappets.

Added ZDDP seems to be optional with a roller cam, and required with flat tappet. Brad Pen oil has plenty of ZDDP, but it's not synthetic. Diesel oils have a little more than gas oils, but they've cut their content by 25%.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

A lot depends on usage. For general street use, pick a good standard dino oil, and change it every 5K miles or once a year.

Best advice so far. Unless you're tracking your car, there's no need to change the oil so often. It just a waste of time and money. Also, putting some oil in the filter is fine. Trying to fill it all the way up and screw it on...I wouldn't bother.

[zrayr]

Your engine is ready for a high quality synthetic, no need to wait further. Use Mobil 1 oil & a Mobil 1 Filter. You will have all the friction reduction of the so called pure synthetics without the extra expense.

Do you know if you have chrome-moly oil pump driveshaft. If so, there is no danger in using a heavier synthetic oil like Mobil 1 15w-50. I've been using it for 9 years & 34,000 miles in my small block without any issues. No measurable wear or leaks. And you won't need an additive with it either. If you use a lighter weight oil, you might want to consider a zinc additive.

If you have roller camshaft, then a zinc additive is not necessary. If you have a flat tappet cam, you will need a zddp additive. The best zddp additive available is:

http://www.cam-shield.com/

No conventional oil can reduce wear like synthetic oil. Don't believe otherwise.

you wanted opinions. based on experience, that's mine.

Z.

[patrickt]

Hooch, the truth is that it really doesn't matter. Even the oil they sell at the drugstore will get you 50,000 miles -- the odds are pretty high you'll be dead long before then. Cheers.

[zrayr]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Hooch, the truth is that it really doesn't matter. Even the oil they sell at the drugstore will get you 50,000 miles -- the odds are pretty high you'll be dead long before then. Cheers.

I think odds are you will beat those odds.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by zrayr

I think odds are you will beat those odds.

Naah, I betcha he dies before he puts 50k miles on his Cobra. I betcha I die before I put 50k miles on my Cobra.

[Hooch]

Thanks all, for your thoughts, except for the whole death bit.... I'm 39 and sure hope I make it longer than 50k miles, which I figure will be about 16 years.

[zrayr]

that's what I was thinking. Death comes too quick for us all to joke about

Z.

[209]

Patrickt,
How do you keep your radiator so clean? Surely you don't clean bugs after every outing? 209

[zrayr]

Originally Posted by 209

Patrickt,
How do you keep your radiator so clean? Surely you don't clean bugs after every outing? 209

I was wondering the same thing. And when you get tired cleaning your car, I'll trade a similar detailing as you have on your car for a days rental on mine, While I get to drive yours of course ; )


Z.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by 209

Patrickt,
How do you keep your radiator so clean? Surely you don't clean bugs after every outing? 209

That's an old shot. But honestly, my radiator doesn't look a whole lot different than that bug-wise. Up until a month or two ago, my pushers would come on any time the thermostat in the lower radiator hose hit its mark. I think the pusher fans acted like a Slice'n Dice for the the bugs, reducing them down to small bug-fragments that didn't cling to the radiator fins. Now my pushers only come on if I manually throw a switch, so I'll be mindful to perform a bug inspection every so often and report back.

[CBattaglia]

Added ZDDP seems to be optional with a roller cam, and required with flat tappet. Brad Pen oil has plenty of ZDDP, but it's not synthetic.

Brad Penn is semi synthetic.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by 209

Patrickt,
How do you keep your radiator so clean? Surely you don't clean bugs after every outing? 209

I've got a screen over my radiator and I do a quick wipe off whenever I drive my car. Only takes a minute.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by MackNed

You have to change them out also-- different cam profile and require a different roller.. Also you will have to swap out the push tubes, and most likely the rocker arms (they need to be adjustable rockers or adjustable push tubes may work for a while, but the treads have a tendency of failing after awhile). then you will need to figure out what ratio for the rockers depending on your configuration. Stick with the hydraulic lifters---they float at higher rpm (can't pump up with oil) so you may kill a lifter- they are a good safeguard. Why ,I like solid they require more maintenance, over head adjustments, and when they over speed things bent and break. Also there are easier and cheaper ways of getting 15 horsepower.

All of this just to clean your radiator?

[Al G]

Originally Posted by MackNed

You have to change them out also-- different cam profile and require a different roller.. Also you will have to swap out the push tubes, and most likely the rocker arms (they need to be adjustable rockers or adjustable push tubes may work for a while, but the treads have a tendency of failing after awhile). then you will need to figure out what ratio for the rockers depending on your configuration. Stick with the hydraulic lifters---they float at higher rpm (can't pump up with oil) so you may kill a lifter- they are a good safeguard. Why ,I like solid they require more maintenance, over head adjustments, and when they over speed things bent and break. Also there are easier and cheaper ways of getting 15 horsepower.

What question are you answering? I saw a similar (or maybe the same) response from you on another thread that also made no sense in that context.

[JST4FUN]

Good info, I need to change mine soon as well. Do you also drain the oil cooler?

Thanks!

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by Al G

What question are you answering? I saw a similar (or maybe the same) response from you on another thread that also made no sense in that context.

He has 5 posts and links to laptop carrying cases in his signature. He's a spammer. If it keeps up, hopefully the mods will block him.

I hope Patrickt isn't out there changing his cam and valve train to help clean up his radiator.

[patrickt]

You can rest comfortably on that. Nor do I flush my oil cooler....

[dcdoug]

Actually, I noticed that I really don't have any bugs or crap on my radiator either. Those little fans must do a good job of mincing bugs.

[JST4FUN]

I do have a few bugs but they'll be gone tomorrow!

Patrickt, how much new oil do you hold back to compensate for whats held in the cooler?

Thanks!