Help with first oil change.

[Hooch]

Thanks... Where were you guys when I was building this thing. I'm embarrassed to say that I do not know the torque spec for my drain plug.... I was looking for info on viscosity, conventional vs synthetic, additives, brand etc...

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by Hooch

Thanks... Where were you guys when I was building this thing. I'm embarrassed to say that I do not know the torque spec for my drain plug.... I was looking for info on viscosity, conventional vs synthetic, additives, brand etc...

I don't think there's a torque spec on the plug. Snug it up tight, but don't over do it.

Regarding oil viscosity, conventional vs. Synthetic. You're engine builder is your best resource. Folks on the forum can give you suggestions, but why not contact the folks at the Engine Factory?

The zip lock bags work like a charm.

[patrickt]

I always spill oil. Always.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by Hooch

Thanks... Where were you guys when I was building this thing. I'm embarrassed to say that I do not know the torque spec for my drain plug.... I was looking for info on viscosity, conventional vs synthetic, additives, brand etc...

Canton says 1/4 turn past finger tight for their pans. Steve Christ says 15-20 ft/lbs on an FE. Too tight and it can split the washer and guarantee a leak.

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by Hooch

Thanks... Where were you guys when I was building this thing. I'm embarrassed to say that I do not know the torque spec for my drain plug.... I was looking for info on viscosity, conventional vs synthetic, additives, brand etc...

A lot depends on usage. For general street use, pick a good standard dino oil, and change it every 5K miles or once a year.

If you're going to be racing, you'll develope a lot of heat. For that use, pick a true synthetic, it will handle the heat better. And change it more often.

AFAIK, there are only 4 true synthetics on the marke: Royal Purple, Red Line, Amsoil, and another I can never remember. Notice that Mobile 1 is NOT on the list.

For viscosity, pick the one that miantians your oil pressure. For most engines, 5W-30 is plenty. More viscosity is not better.

For a filter, avoid Fram, one of the worst on the market. I use either motorcraft or Purolater Pro-1.

For additives, I use a break in additive to increase the ZDDP levels. I get the Comp Cams additive from Summit. I use it with every oil change. In theory, it prevents glassification of the cylinder walls. I also use it in my diesel pick up, because it has flat tappets.

Added ZDDP seems to be optional with a roller cam, and required with flat tappet. Brad Pen oil has plenty of ZDDP, but it's not synthetic. Diesel oils have a little more than gas oils, but they've cut their content by 25%.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

A lot depends on usage. For general street use, pick a good standard dino oil, and change it every 5K miles or once a year.

Best advice so far. Unless you're tracking your car, there's no need to change the oil so often. It just a waste of time and money. Also, putting some oil in the filter is fine. Trying to fill it all the way up and screw it on...I wouldn't bother.

[CBattaglia]

Added ZDDP seems to be optional with a roller cam, and required with flat tappet. Brad Pen oil has plenty of ZDDP, but it's not synthetic.

Brad Penn is semi synthetic.