Maxx, you think he cares how things look in there?

It took "the gallery" to get him to smooth out his initially poor cutting of his clutch fork. Sheesh, the man knows no shame. :D

The "Car Talk" brothers on NPR said that they were basically a waste of money.%/

That's on my list to remedy... and I'm getting there, slowly.

You got that right. Move over, Charlie Sheen.:cool:

Oh come on. Like you never "lost" your wallet in a hotel room before.

Hey Rod
With all the miles you put on your car, when are you due for your next oil change 2015 ???? :D


Only teasing

Great thread Max!

I am enjoying it.

J

It looks like Rodknock's "only driven on Sunday's to church Kirkham" is legendary from Coast to Coast. :LOL: :D

Uhhh, I'm willing to wager that RodKnock does not drive his Cobra to church.:rolleyes::LOL::p

Thanks, got all the filters and some oil lined up for tomorrow morining, My neighbors will love me about 6:00am. One is a lawyer and gets up about 10:00am except tomorrow, the other works with me so he will be gone. The housewifes need up anyway. My plan is to start engine, readings at 1K rpm, 2 k rpm, 3 krpm and shut off quick. I do not want the oil warming up between test if it does I will have to continue sat morning. I am confident I can get two test tomorrow. I ran engine this afternoon to ensure lubricant is clinging to all surfaces. I would love to get reading as the oil pump rv bypasses but no way do I want to rev the engine when cold. Its built like a sheet brickhouse anyway.

1) Existing FL-1hp
2) FL-1A
3) Royal Purple - probably leave this one installed.

Hoses to gauges ty-wrapped away from pulleys. Test oil Mobil 1 10W40.

Go spend 69 dollars for a oil heater, run a high quality low micron filter and your engine will love you. :):)

Here are a few things to keep in mind about racing filters.

This is what WIX has to say about Racing Filters
Warning: Wix racing filters are designed for racing purposes only, and if used on street-driven vehicles, pre-mature engine wear is possible."

They are made for high flow Rates around 28GPM 40 to 60 Microns. :eek:

Street pumps might deliver a 1/3 of that flow rate. YOU WILL NOT see any noticeable difference in pressure drop across the filter compared to a High quality low micron filter.

Once again, you nagged me in to taking action. I had an extra Blue/Red fitting sitting around -- did you know that the color polishes right out? Lousy pic from my BB:

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...redblue001.jpg

The great Buddha said " I never see what has been done; I only see what remains to be done."

You gotta a lot work to do my friend. :)

Here are the results with oil filter temp of 59F and engine speed 3000 rpm 10W40 at an estimated 6gpm.

Motorcraft FL-1HP Before filter 78 psig, after filter 75 psig, car gauge 67 psig
Royal Purple Before filter 77 psig, after filter 75 psig, car gauge 68 psig
Motorcraft FL-1A Before filter 78 pisg, after filter 75 psig, car gauge 68 psig

Bottom line any filter that screws on your engine and does not leak and has a Micron filter under 30 is the best you can get. As you can see there is minimal pressure drop across any filter, in fact 3 psig. The real pressure killer is the POS oil cooler. I doubt seriously any filter every bypasses so we are filtering 100% of the time.

Again we have been mislead by advertising companies publishing characteritics that add
no value over what you already have.


The number one value filter out there is the Motorcraft FL-1A for $3.79
The number one filter ignoring all cost is the Royal Purple.

Each test took less than 30 seconds and I let the engnine cool for an hour between. Since we do filter 100% of the time and particulate below 25 micron does no damage magnets value is questionable. Since a sbf has than 100 psig oil pressure any filter has more than adequate burst rating. Since the filters never bypass, any filter is acceptable even dirty side bypass, Since most filters are 25 micron and only get better with contaminants any non-race filter works. There is no wrong answers with your filter choice except Fram. Once I am done with the Royal Purple, I am going with the Ford FL-1A.

Thanks!!!

I sense a fitting-by-fitting photo essay and encyclopedia coming...:(

Chas, I think the modern term for encyclopedia is "wiki." **)

BTW, I know folks don't go around scrubbing their Earls or Russell fittings all the time, so they must make them w/o color, but I'm sure Patrick will treat us to one of interesting money-saving threads.

Yep, just like I spent a day painstakingly painting a distributor cap that I could have ordered with a click of the mouse, I intend on polishing off the red and blue anodization on the fittings instead of buying new aluminum finish ones for a couple of bucks. Of course, that could have the effect of cutting in to my oyster bar time, but I'm prepared to make the sacrifice by cutting back on time spent in the office instead.:cool:

You could also buy Aeroquip nickel fitting which cost a lot more and not have to do so plebeian a thing as oven-cleaner your cheesy aluminum ones.
EARLS-even sounds like a channel 9 TV sit com...

You could even boast about the expense-something you've shied-away from in the past...:o

madmaxx, great test/write-up and confirms my own understanding that a simple (and cheap) FL1A is up to the task. Thank you for taking the time to do this for the benefit of others.

I am not going to use oven cleaner. I plan on polishing them by hand. Yep, that's right. By hand.:cool:

patrickt, you could simply use Easyoff oven cleaner and achieve the same result. What are you after, a more realistic, period-correct look under your hood? If realism is your goal, then also please show us a photo essay when you take a plasma cutter to that extra roll-bar of yours. :LOL:

No, I just don't like the red and blue look.