Valve lifters…solid/hydraulic/roller tappet/flat tappet?

[RICK LAKE]

xb-60 Glen at this point being a paper motor we have alot of room to play
First Brent likes cookies and milk, so he can forget the cake.
The 3.07 is a problem without bottom end torque, answer is a 5 or 6 speed trans. You don't need an over drive with 3.07. 1st gear will need to be in the 2.80 range if you want some quickness out of the car before it gets into the power bands. Webers will help in the power bands if setup right. Top end will also improve too if running 48MM. Stroker kit with a 331 is a good way to go.As far as heads, Do the Clevor heads fit on a 302 windsor block?? With a little work you will have a large rpm range. They remind me of the old 1970 Boss heads, no power under 2,500 rpms but then O-YEA and this was with a 780dp holley. Sorry I am going hydro valvetrain and setup valve with a .015" plunger depth, good set of valve springs and a cam with 112 LSA, in the .550-.580 lifter range. Key thing will be springs. I like and run beehives for 12 years. same set no failures IF you follow there setup and binding clearances of between .085-.100" I'm at .95" My motor does fall off a little at 5,800 rpms but still pulls to 6,200 rpm with valve float. IMO the lifters are pumped up with 85 psi and act like solids. I do think that they start to float with the lite spring pressure at 365pounds at open. I am looking for a higher rate spring. PAC sells them in the 400+ rate in pounds. I think you build a little lower power range you will be more than happy, should get around emmisions check and still haul the bacon. Going to work. Rick L. Ps cobra are flying barn doors, you need to go about 135 and start to feel the front end get real lite. Mine did this with a paxton hood scoop on. I have gone back to the oem hood and little scoop alot more stable.