Valve lifters…solid/hydraulic/roller tappet/flat tappet?

[RICK LAKE]

Blykins Brent You can lead a horse to water but will not drink. Let it go. This guys needs to run either a 6 speed trans, change the rearend ratio, build a bigger motor or go fishing. 10 pages of info from guys that have tried the same thing. If he want to have the motor not lug at 1,500 rpms he will need a heavier flywheel and dampener to absorb the firing of the motor under this kind of load. This will damage the motor over time, something will break. He want to turn 7,000 rpms with a stock block, without it being filled in the coolant passages for strength, no main cap support or 4 bolt main. Cast crank pistons and off the self rods. Good luck, it will be a short fairy tale. I REALLY hope that Glen or his friend in the pass seat don't get hurt from flying debrie when this thing breaks. Bell housing only partial protect from flywheel, they do nothing for engine parts. My thinking is a mazda rotary motor with 3 rotors and a turbo. 600 hp and will lug along too. I'm done Rick L.

[xb-60]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Blykins Brent You can lead a horse to water but will not drink. Let it go. This guys needs to run either a 6 speed trans, change the rearend ratio, build a bigger motor or go fishing. 10 pages of info from guys that have tried the same thing. If he want to have the motor not lug at 1,500 rpms he will need a heavier flywheel and dampener to absorb the firing of the motor under this kind of load. This will damage the motor over time, something will break. He want to turn 7,000 rpms with a stock block, without it being filled in the coolant passages for strength, no main cap support or 4 bolt main. Cast crank pistons and off the self rods. Good luck, it will be a short fairy tale. I REALLY hope that Glen or his friend in the pass seat don't get hurt from flying debrie when this thing breaks. Bell housing only partial protect from flywheel, they do nothing for engine parts. My thinking is a mazda rotary motor with 3 rotors and a turbo. 600 hp and will lug along too. I'm done Rick L.

What I asked in the OP was for information about lifters. Post #6 asked me for more information.
Typically if I don't understand something, I ask questions.
Cheers,
Glen

[blykins]

XB,

If you can get Modified Mustangs & Ford magazine over there, pick up the issue that is getting ready to come out.

I have an article in there, using a Boss 529 engine, that explains a lot about picking the engine parts to match the system as a whole. It goes through a lot of parts selection, descriptions, etc.

[xb-60]

Originally Posted by blykins

XB,

If you can get Modified Mustangs & Ford magazine over there, pick up the issue that is getting ready to come out.

I have an article in there, using a Boss 529 engine, that explains a lot about picking the engine parts to match the system as a whole. It goes through a lot of parts selection, descriptions, etc.

Thanks Brent. Yes I can get it here. I'll look out for it
Cheers,
Glen

[RICK LAKE]

xb-60 Glen There is no issues with asking questions about ANYTHING. The problem starts when 5 different guys try and point out a BETTER way and cheaper in the long run to build a motor. You want to stay with a 289, FINE. You can stroke it to a 331 WITHOUT anyone knowing it's that big. You want BOTH WORLDS. Been there along with others here and tryed it. This motor will tear it's guts out trying to meet both a idle of 700 rpms and a 7,000 rpm red line. All the crap you read in the RAG MAGS is alot of just that CRAP. The problem is they can get these motors to do what's in the article. They just donot tell you how long these motor last on the street. Simple answer to this, even with good parts, EVERY part has a life limit. Your motor will have crazy high piston speed, a cast crank with a 6,700 safe limit. I hope the pistons are forged. If these guys in the article are so great why are they not in the engine masters. Go back the last 7 years and look at who is who. There are about 5 master mashinist I have talked to and said they don't have the time or money for this game. This is FE motor guys, Gessford machine and Kuntz are 2 to start. Thanks to Barry R. he has relite the fire for the FE motors and done really well. The caught is this, his motors can be bolted in any car and are drivable for thousands of miles. Some of the other motors are just that dyno motors for an rpm range that live for maybe 20-50 hour total and start to come apart. Just like a Nascar motor, 1 race and in the bucket. I wish you luck with your build. Thereis not such thing as a stupid question. i spent 3 years asking them myself before building an FE motor from the east to the west coast. Learned alot and meet some great people who are alive but some have pass. MY issue is that they left this world without writing down any of this info to pass on to future generations of builder, buyers and owners. I know they don't want to give all there secerts away and do not. Over time everything is found out. Again good luck, Have a Fosters for me. Rick L.

[zrayr]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

".............. He want to turn 7,000 rpms with a stock block, without it being filled in the coolant passages for strength, no main cap support or 4 bolt main. Cast crank pistons and off the self rods. Good luck, it will be a short fairy tale. ..........."

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

"............... This motor will tear it's guts out trying to meet both a idle of 700 rpms and a 7,000 rpm red line. ......"

starting with your assertion above, I can't figure out how thousands of 289 Hi-Po's have been hitting 7000 rpm regularly over the past 45 years ? They don't have any of the features you list above. (full disclosure: my engine had no trouble keeping it's "guts" together with the original cast pistons for 35 years, but I changed to +0.020" forged pistons anyway about 10 years ago.).

Long live the fairy tale.

p.s. Can't meet the 700 rpm idle mark though, 800 is about as low as is reliable, ymmv.


Z.