oil pressure LOST, and then 24 hours later BACK

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Tom: I have no idea what is causing your problem,BB pans may be different from the SB pans,but at worse, should be very similar......Also, Canton makes the same pan on outward appearance,one is listed as as "Street " pan,it has the same identical dimentions as the one listed as "Road Race Pan", but does not have the baffled trap doors....otherwise they are identical pans....there is nothing in the bottom of the sump, all this pan does is increase overall oil capacity.....
On that note,I've raced my car over 8 seasons at Hallet in Tulsa,The Nashville SuperSpeedway road course in Nashville, VIR in Virginia,Barber MotorSports in Birminham and Grand Bayou here in Louisiana and have not seen any drop in oil pressure other than about 3 to 5 psi on very rare occasions while racing,and not always in the same turn......My normal oil pressure at speed with oil temp from 180 to 250 degrees is 55psi.....I've made it a point to check the oil pressure gauge visiually in some long high speed sweeping turns and have not seen the gauge move, even had my in-car camera focused on the oil pressure gauge to verify this and I also have an oil pressure warning light set to come on at 20 psi and I've never seen it come on as of yet,except on start-up.....I'm also using a Melling High Performance oil pump in standard pressure/standard volume......

I've also run my street car with a 351-W with a Canton Road Race pan at Hallet,Nashville,Barber and Grand Bayou with no loss in oil pressure....
I'll try to post pics of my pan, inside there is worlds of difference bewteen the Canton pan I have and Pete's AVAID pan.....I think Pete's problems are pan related over time....his engine did last 10 years and 16,000 miles though...
David

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Canton Road Race pan pictures.......

[DAVID GAGNARD]

I'll try it again......

[DAVID GAGNARD]

more.......

[DAVID GAGNARD]

more

[DAVID GAGNARD]

click on each pic for a larger better view.....
in the first one, you'll see the "box" in the sump with the trap doors, aligned diagonally with the pan.....the first pictures shows the "brace" from the front corner to the front of the pan, it is half the height of the box,allowing oil to flow from side to side, right/left.......same with the opposing rear corner..

Now in the next set of picutes, the brace from the corner of the pan to the sides of the pan is the same height as the box,basically dividing the pan in 2 sections front to rear,but feeding both side sections...

the pan in the last photos is off a 351-W,but same pan, showing the crank scraper and windage tray.......box/trap doors/braces are identical.....
when the pan is full (8 quarts) oil level is just below the bottom of the windage tray as checked with 8 quarts of water.....
the oil draining from the rear of the engine/shallow part of the pan feeds the rear section,which in turn will feed the box from both sides,oil from the front part of the engine feeds the front section and both side.......since the "brace" is only half the height of the box in the front/rear,oil will equalize from side to side in the front/rear sections.....but since the brace is the full height side to side,it will hold the old better front to rear sections....
Hope this makes sence, now compare to Pete's AVAID pan......lot of difference.....the one thing I don't like about Pete's pan is the "cover" over the 2 side compartments, I don't see how much oil can ever get into the side compartments......front to back is no problem as in accelerating/braking,side to side does bother me,can't see how it would function properly the way it is made and side to side is where he's losing pressure in long sweeping turns......

David