So I'm bored and thinking about going a bit "over the top"...currently have a Ford Racing alum 351/427 which was dyno'd at 575HP (understand that dynos are all different but this is what the print out that I have from the builder says) w/TKO600 in a BDR car. I want to put a nastier set up in it that is reliable. Besides the engine itself, what would I need to change to handle additional power? Half shafts? Rear? How much HP/torque can my current set up handle?
Been considering a Paxton type set up but do not have any real experience with anything besides a straight up motor with a carb. Maybe a big block would do it for me-I've owned a few BB's but not in a car this light.
What would the dream engine/drive line be for someone who like going fast in a straight line but also wants to be able to drive it a lot on the street? Using 40,000 as a budget ceiling.
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Gary Bowman
Voorhees NJ/Key Largo Fla/Ventnor NJ
It generally does not pay to do that to an existing car, you are usually better off selling and rebuilding it right out of the box. To handle the power levels over 600HP we implement the LSD differential (mostly for the polished gear set and other enhancements done when it's built) and also the differential gets solid mounted (aluminum bushings) to keep it from moving. Other than that the cars have seen over 700HP. The power in a supercharged car comes on differently then if you were to put a Winston Cup motor in there...
For the power mixed with overall drive ability the Coyote with Supercharger is hard to argue. We are finishing one up now that will easily make 700HP, but we will likely pull it back for safety. Another one we did here:
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cashburn
I baby them since they are fresh...
I'll say. Oh well, I can't argue about safety.OP -- the weakest point on Jag based rears are the stub axles. We've seen them go recently with less horsepower than you have right now. If you're seriously going to go that high with the power, I'd start from scratch.
Cobra Make, Engine: Time Machines Motorsports LLC- Superformance Dealer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
I'll say. Oh well, I can't argue about safety.OP -- the weakest point on Jag based rears are the stub axles. We've seen them go recently with less horsepower than you have right now. If you're seriously going to go that high with the power, I'd start from scratch.
BDRs are not Jag diffs, they are BMW. What is the power capacity of the halfshafts?
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"I'm high all right, but on the real thing....powerful gasoline and a clean windshield..."
Cobra Make, Engine: Former owner of Long Live the Bow tie Contemporary #102 427 Chevy .30 over Merlin heads 11to1, TBI injection
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If you like the handling and driveability you have now ??? Have you thought about a nitros set up??? An extra 100 or 150 H.P can solve a lot of boredom problems!!
Cobra Make, Engine: Former owner of Long Live the Bow tie Contemporary #102 427 Chevy .30 over Merlin heads 11to1, TBI injection
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I am a "Car Craft- HotRod " kinda guy and Nitros would be the cure for your "boredom" and a shot in the arm would probably not destroy your drivetrain.
Last edited by Thor maine; 01-25-2013 at 06:01 AM..
I would bet you're experiencing more of a lack of traction than power. These are not all Wheel drive . You Have at best 1 And 1/2 tires to put the power to the pavement.
Your BDR with an aluminum block should be at around 2300 pounds. at your rated power even if your Motors torque Curve may be high probably maxing over 5500 RPMs Throwing any more power added May only make the situation worse.
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
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Man, you've got bigger ones than I do.
My engine puts out 550hp and 575 lb ft. at the crank and even with sticky tires I can get sideways in third gear with just a firm push on the pedal. Don't know what I would do with another 200 horsepower except ruin more pairs of underwear than I already do.
I don't even consider flooring the throttle in any gear below fourth unless I'm going straight and have no cars or steep dropoffs on either side of me.
Thats the idea...pedal thru 1st and 2nd...ease into 3rd then hammer it at the top of 3rd, all while going straight ahead. I live in NJ...everyone wants to beat up the old guy from one light to the next
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Gary Bowman
Voorhees NJ/Key Largo Fla/Ventnor NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: EM cobra, 450 inch sbc running a best ET of 9.14..so far..ALL MOTOR...approx 800 horse.............ERA with 482 FE..All Aluminum Engine
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Build the suspension right, and you shouldn't have to pedal much is first. This video is on street tires.
Cobra Make, Engine: EM cobra, 450 inch sbc running a best ET of 9.14..so far..ALL MOTOR...approx 800 horse.............ERA with 482 FE..All Aluminum Engine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBowman
Hotfingers-That is one BADASS ride!!! I dont think my LSD could ever do that
What is your best ET on street tires?
Street tires = mid to high 9's best on slicks 9.14 and this is an IRS
Cobra Make, Engine: EM cobra, 450 inch sbc running a best ET of 9.14..so far..ALL MOTOR...approx 800 horse.............ERA with 482 FE..All Aluminum Engine
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How much power???
Oh well, I can't argue about safety.
OP -- the weakest point on Jag based rears are the stub axles. We've seen them go recently with less horsepower than you have right now. If you're seriously going to go that high with the power, I'd start from scratch.
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