High torque starter

[Seagull81]

I am thinking about changing to a high torque starter from stock. I was wondering what brand or features I should be looking for. The prices are all over the place so it is hard to tell which one is worth the money. I have a 347 with 10-1 compression with a stock starter and I am starting to have some issues with hot starts. I have a very good ground from the starter to the frame. Battery was checked and it is OK.
Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

[bingo2]

Where is your battery located?
What gauge cable are you using?

[Dwight]

I bought one from DB Electrical - Ford a couple of years ago. No problems yet. Chinese made but I think all of them are. Some companies sell this starter for in the $150 range.


Dwight




NEW FORD MINI PMGR RACING STARTER 302 351 HIGHER TORQUE 3205 SFD0001


Price: $56.95

[Seagull81]

Battery is in the trunk and the cable is #2.

[bobcowan]

A stock starter for a late model 5.0 is a high torque starter. You can buy one from autozone or advance for about $100, with a lifetime warranty.

Now, that being said, that may not be your problem. If the engine used to start fine, but now it doesn't, maybe the starter is not the issue. Do a load test on the battery and see what happens. Then take a close look at all your connections. Make sure they're all still clean and tight.

[Seagull81]

Battery was load tested good. Tomorrow I will double check all the connections.

[blown871]

tilton

[RICK LAKE]

Seagull81 Steve spend the extra money and buy a gear reduction stater. Tilton, Powermaster, or even Summits. These starters will crank over a 14.5 compression motor. It's more important to make sure the gear to gear clearance between the starter bendix and the flywheel gear is about .035" engaged. Make sure the bellhousing was centered on the back of the motor to start. A heat shield wouldn't hurt if you have the room to install this.
Side note, Check the timing on the motor and also the timing chain for play when cranking the motor. With the timing off the motor will be harder to start is heat soaked.
The other thing to check is the starter soleniod, The contacts inside it could be burnt for many starts The spike of ampage is about 200-400 amps for a split second and then drops down to load rating. Before replacing the starter, It might be easier to replace the soleniod. IF your car uses the ign switch to directly start the startern add a 30-40amp relay in between to save the ign switch contacts and not burn them out or cause a dash fire. I have seen poor wiring in a cobra kit cook the dash from no relays.
Silly side note, If the car is parked and sitting for a couple of minutes pop the hood to let out the heat. Rap a small piece of 2X4 in cloth and hold open the hood. Starter will be easier.
Last note is it possible your car has vapor lock and causing hard starting or long cranking? Also check the cap and rotor if you run an MSD setup. These parts get burnt out faster than normal parts with very high voltage. Burnt holes in the rotor blade and the carbon contacts fall out of the caps.
#2 gauge wire is fine with clean ends. Have a little dye electiric grease on all the contections. Good luck. Sorry for the long info. Rick L. Ps you can rebuild most of these mini starters, ONly the bendix wears out over time. I have a tilton mini with 15 years on it and have had to replace the bendix because of mechanic failure to get a good measurement of clearance between gears I was talking about.

[Seagull81]

Thanks for the ideas. Life has gotten in the way, but I hope to get back on it on Sunday.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

A stock starter for a late model 5.0 is a high torque starter. You can buy one from autozone or advance for about $100, with a lifetime warranty.

Now, that being said, that may not be your problem. If the engine used to start fine, but now it doesn't, maybe the starter is not the issue. Do a load test on the battery and see what happens. Then take a close look at all your connections. Make sure they're all still clean and tight.

Yes, or:
Ask for a starter for a 94/95 Ford T-Bird, 302 with a manual trans... (manual and autos use a different length nose cone, they are not interchangeable)...
it is a high torque mini starter, had one on my 13.5 to 1 compression 331 stroker in my road race car for 8 years with no problems, spun the engine over with no problems......
This is the exact same starter that some "on-line" places advertise and sell as a Ford Motor Sport High Torque starter for $195.00!!!!!!!!!!! about 1/2 that price at your local auto parts store.....

David

[PANAVIA]

Thank you David for pointing out the nose-cone / depth portion - as that can get ugly.

--we have been very happy with the Denso' starter, and not soo happy with the Hitachi.

the Denso unit is sold under many names including Summit Racing and Powermaster.

--be careful of the "new ford" units sold through the discount auto parts chains as they are Hecho-en-china and we have seen some failures in metallurgy and assembly - ( Not happy ) -- however once we put in and wire for the Denso's - you are golden.

The Denso sold by SR is collar rotation capable and works great for clocking / indexing. to clear frame rail and exhaust complexity.

Dont worry - The Summit sticker peels off;



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-820055/overview/

[undy]

My CVR gear reduction starter on my K/C Pond 482" side-oiler just failed. I replaced it with RobbMC Performance's unit. The quality/design/machining is outstanding and it spins the engine MUCH faster that the last reduction starter. It's made in the good ol' USA too! It seems to be the starter of choice on FORDFE.com also. It's a bit more expensive ($280) but to me is well worth it.

RobbMc Performance Products - Ford FE Starter

[*13*]

I don't remember what brand it was, it was from NAPA. Works great.

[Tom Wells]

Seagull81,

Don't know why your starter won't cooperate. Is it heat? Clicking when hot instead of turning the engine over?

I can't recall how many cables, grounds, batteries, starters of different kinds, heat shields and baffles I tried. All those efforts lasted at most three to six months. Then, no start when warm...

Finally the light came on. It's described in this thread, last post: First Coast Cobra Club • View topic - Zephyr update June 2011

There's a link in that last post that shows how to wire up the solution: two solenoids. Don't use the type of solenoid in their photo (see link below).

Ford has used two solenoids forever. If they could have saved a few pennies by eliminating one of them I'm dang sure they would have.

Interestingly, the Chevy guys often use this technique to solve the same problem - by adding a second solenoid.

Coincidentally, there are two kinds of solenoids available for Fords: side post and top post. The side post ones are very fragile and flaky (technical term: they sometimes don't work but not all the time.) Here's a message that shows the correct ones to use: First Coast Cobra Club • View topic - Tom's starter CLICK of doom. Solved?
It includes photos and a description.

It's possible this may help your problem.

It only took me nine years to figure it out. Just one guy's Odyssey...

Tom

[lippy]

Coincidentally I just asked Brent what starter he is using on my build. He's using a Powermaster ministarter.

[Seagull81]

Thanks, Tom. More things to check. That is when I can get back on the Cobra. Now the wife's 67 Mustang needs my help. We have too many cars.
More to come.

[cobrarkc]

MSD has an excellent one check out these spec compared to the others.
DynaForce Starter,Ford 289,302,351W, 5.0L - 5090

[RET_COP]

I bought the Ford Racing Hi Tq. Mini starter. Woirks great and has alot of clearence for my rear sump Champ's pan. I had to choose between the 164 and the 153 tooth flywheel. Mine was the 164