Roush 427r only made 400whp :(

[blykins]

Clutch slipping? Did you cut the filter open and look for issues with the engine?

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by blykins

Clutch slipping? Did you cut the filter open and look for issues with the engine?

Clutch is not slipping and yes the oil filter was cut open and no bearing material was found. Compression test results are 1-150lb, 2-160lb, 3-160lb, 4-160lb, 5-155lb, 6-160lb, 7-162lb, 8-160lb cranking with a brand new optima red top. I spoke to the engine shop and they said it should be 175-180lb per cylinder and that the last tuner back in 09 must have simply tuned the car too rich and this is a result of washing the rings. I've been advised if I keep the oil level correct it will be fine to drive it the remainder of the year before having it fixed. It does use oil but I have never seen smoke from the side pipe until this past dyno visit...I only noticed a tiny bit of dark smoke under hard throttle with AFR being 12.5. Do you agree? I'm bummed but look at this glass half full with an opportunity to freshen the motor and make changes

[blykins]

You will probably see black smoke at WOT with 12.5:1.

[Anthony]

Originally Posted by Ace23

Compression test results are 1-150lb, 2-160lb, 3-160lb, 4-160lb, 5-155lb, 6-160lb, 7-162lb, 8-160lb cranking with a brand new optima red top. I spoke to the engine shop and they said it should be 175-180lb per cylinder and that the last tuner back in 09 must have simply tuned the car too rich and this is a result of washing the rings.

you need to contact keith craft, and ask him, as he built the engine, knows the cam, and what the static compression numbers should be.

years ago, at one of the cobra builders/ engine shops, I had some work done on my FE 427 (429 displacement), and got 455 rwhp. That same cobra/engine builder had installed numerous roush 427r's, and I think the best rwhp he ever got from any of the crate roush 427r's, was around 420, even after dyno tuning with the best side pipes. So, it depends a lot upon the dyno.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by Anthony

you need to contact keith craft, and ask him, as he built the engine, knows the cam, and what the static compression numbers should be.

I thought he said in his first post the engine is a Roush 427R, not a Keith Craft engine????????

As far as the 10 quarts go,that seems like a lot,but you can easily find out,most A/M oil pans (canton for sure) have the parts number on them, easy to see if the car is on a lift, check what type pan it is,take a few measurements if you can't find the part number and look up on their site and you should be able to get the capacity........

I've never seen a Canton SBF pan that held more than 8 quarts,too much oil can be as bad as too little oil......
I have a Canton 8 quart road race pan on my race car and a remote larger than normal filter with 12AN lines,probably a total 8 or more feet of lines and it only holds 10.5 quarts and that's including the oil cooler......my filter alone holds 1.5 quarts........

David

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by Anthony

you need to contact keith craft, and ask him, as he built the engine, knows the cam, and what the static compression numbers should be.

years ago, at one of the cobra builders/ engine shops, I had some work done on my FE 427 (429 displacement), and got 455 rwhp. That same cobra/engine builder had installed numerous roush 427r's, and I think the best rwhp he ever got from any of the crate roush 427r's, was around 420, even after dyno tuning with the best side pipes. So, it depends a lot upon the dyno.

I called Keith's shop and spend about 15 minutes on the phone with them. they said 175-180 per cylinder.

Originally Posted by DAVID GAGNARD

I thought he said in his first post the engine is a Roush 427R, not a Keith Craft engine????????

As far as the 10 quarts go,that seems like a lot,but you can easily find out,most A/M oil pans (canton for sure) have the parts number on them, easy to see if the car is on a lift, check what type pan it is,take a few measurements if you can't find the part number and look up on their site and you should be able to get the capacity........

I've never seen a Canton SBF pan that held more than 8 quarts,too much oil can be as bad as too little oil......
I have a Canton 8 quart road race pan on my race car and a remote larger than normal filter with 12AN lines,probably a total 8 or more feet of lines and it only holds 10.5 quarts and that's including the oil cooler......my filter alone holds 1.5 quarts........

David

It is a Keith Craft. Didn't look on the pan when I was under it but the original build info from 2004 has a Canton 15660C listed....I looked it up and I've found the 15660C to have a 7 quart capacity. I've got an oil cooler on the car. That damn dip stick was dead at the bottom of the add line at 9 quarts. Will check it tomorrow to see where the oil level with the 10 quarts in it.

[jhv48]

I believe a Roush 427 SR engine has a 7 quart oil pan. Mine does.

If yours does, than filling it with ten quarts is overfilling it and could result in the symptoms you describe. The excess oil is being churned by the crank and splashed into the pistons overwhelming the rings.
Could be the cause of your crankcase pressure.

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by jhv48

I believe a Roush 427 SR engine has an 8 quart oil pan. Mine does.

If yours does, than filling it with ten quarts is overfilling it and could result in the symptoms you describe. The excess oil is being churned by the crank and splashed into the pistons overwhelming the rings.
Could be the cause of your crankcase pressure.

Thanks for the info. This is the first time I've changed the oil so the symptoms were pre existing......compression test was done prior to adding the additional oil. Sounds like I need to get under the car verify the oil pan number then drain the oil and add in the capacity that Canton has listed and mark the dip stick. I'm sure people think I'm a goof for doing this but I've lived life by looking as the dip stick and making sure my oil was between the add and full line.....I've never knew the dipstick may not be accurate to start with. Should be an easy fix

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by Ace23

Thanks for the info. This is the first time I've changed the oil so the symptoms were pre existing......compression test was done prior to adding the additional oil. Sounds like I need to get under the car verify the oil pan number then drain the oil and add in the capacity that Canton has listed and mark the dip stick. I'm sure people think I'm a goof for doing this but I've lived life by looking as the dip stick and making sure my oil was between the add and full line.....I've never knew the dipstick may not be accurate to start with. Should be an easy fix

Sorry about that,was looking at the original thread starter with the Roush engine.......

Your pan capacity is 7 quarts,you also have to add for how much oil your filter holds and how much oil is in the oil lines/oil cooler ....on a typical PH8 type oil filter,figure one quart....depending on the size of the oil lines/cooler,that could be as little as 1/2 quart,so your total capacity could be as little as 8.5 quarts with an oil cooler.....

Once you figure out the total oil capacity,do an oil change after the engine has been warmed up and add the amount you have figured it will hold to full....crank up the engine,let it run for a minute or two,shut it off,give it a few minutes for the oil to drain in the pan,then see where it is on your dipstick and mark your dipstick accordingly and use that mark from then on and you'll be fine....
As far as the low cranking pressure,I would not worry too much about it right now,maybe it should have more or the gauge can be off,either way your numbers are not bad and the good thing is from the high to the low is only an 8% difference which is a good thing!!!
When doing the cranking compression test,did you remove all 8 spark plugs and hold the carb butterflies wide open???? that is the proper way to get an accurate reading....

David