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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 01-13-2016, 08:11 PM
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You have issues far beyond my attempt at any explanation. But it certainly explains a few things!
Good luck and keep us all posted.
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:48 PM
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Sorry to see the valve to piston contact.

Clearly a case of poor assembly on behalf of the previous owner.

How many other pistons also kissed?

Was the engine ever misfiring?

Some poor combustion/quench characteristics there, only about 90% colour on some pistons.

Will you stay with the same cam?

Gary
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64 View Post
Sorry to see the valve to piston contact.

Clearly a case of poor assembly on behalf of the previous owner.

How many other pistons also kissed?

Was the engine ever misfiring?

Some poor combustion/quench characteristics there, only about 90% colour on some pistons.

Will you stay with the same cam?

Gary
It was never misfiring the 3 months I was able to drive it before we had snow. But 6 out of the 8 Pistons have marks. I'm sure if I had a full summer driving this it would have grenaded on me. Better to catch it now.

I'm going to post pictures of the new cam vs the old cam with the specs. Same with the heads. Everything in this motor is very very mild when this guy put it together. Honestly I can't believe I couldn't hear it when it was running.
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Old 01-14-2016, 04:41 PM
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It was never misfiring the 3 months I was able to drive it before we had snow. But 6 out of the 8 Pistons have marks. I'm sure if I had a full summer driving this it would have grenaded on me. Better to catch it now.

I'm going to post pictures of the new cam vs the old cam with the specs. Same with the heads. Everything in this motor is very very mild when this guy put it together. Honestly I can't believe I couldn't hear it when it was running.
Lucky it didn't blow up.

No valve reliefs, novice, (previous builder).

Valve to piston clearance needs to be checked at dummy build.

I'd fit a piston and rod WITH no rings, fit that head with light checking springs, set the lash, and roll the engine over to check VTPC.
Allow for compressed head gasket thickness.

I would also have the engine out on a stand.

And specs please, specs specs specs please..
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Old 01-14-2016, 04:58 PM
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You appear to be in so deep now, don't take shortcuts. Bench the engine and go through it top to bottom if you decide to re-use it. IMHO
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Old 01-15-2016, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64 View Post
Lucky it didn't blow up.

No valve reliefs, novice, (previous builder).

Valve to piston clearance needs to be checked at dummy build.

I'd fit a piston and rod WITH no rings, fit that head with light checking springs, set the lash, and roll the engine over to check VTPC.
Allow for compressed head gasket thickness.

I would also have the engine out on a stand.

And specs please, specs specs specs please..

Yeah my mech had me come in and we went through the bottom end, cylinders, bearings, etc..

I won't be taking any short cuts on this. With that being said as much as I would love to go to a stroker bottom end, I just can't afford the extra $$$.

So I'll be prepping the block, putting in some JE pistons, doing an edlebrock low rise manifold so that I can get a bigger air filter on it. Doing new heads as you saw in the previous threads. Valves are much more aggressive. New Valves are 2.02, 1.60. Coming from the old ones which were 1.94 and 1.51. Specifically on the new heads the intake ports are much larger than those old ones, seriously no joke, my thumb could plug it, they were that small.

Cam wise doing a comp cam hydraulic..
Duration : 276/282
Lift: 544/544
Here's the link of the cam: COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts 35-328-8 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Both the heads and cam were matched together. I am setting this up so that when I move to a Windsor, a few of these items such as the heads can be moved right to the bigger motor, thus saving future funds on the next build.

Based off what we are seeing for numbers with this combination, which my mech has done, he is claiming minimum 100hp gain rear wheel with what we saw on the dyno and what's currently in the motor. I trust him, the guy has a long standing history as being the guru for small block builds, he's even done stuff for Sema. So I trust what he says. Besides at the end of the day the dyno numbers don't lie about a motors ingredients from a builder. If I'm close to 400hp rear wheel , I'll be happy with that coming from 241hp.

I'll keep posting pics as we go. Thanks for supporting me guys. For my first post this turned in to the most knowledgable thread..
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