Main Bearings Spacers
 

Hi Guys;
Some aftermarket cranks come with 2.75 Clevend size main journals for 351W.(Like chevy 350 Crankshaft in a 400 block).Can i use 2.75 main journal crank in a stock 351w block with a main bearings spacers?Where can find the spacers?Thanks...

Cleveland crank in a Windsor block? I think you can find them here....

www.f-p-s.com

Or here

http://www.performanceparts.ford.com...sc=Crankshafts

There are good reasons to use a Cleveland main journal size crank in a Windsor block; and there are equally good reasons not to.

For a race motor, and you're looking for an extra 1/10th, and you're willing to spend an extra $5,000 for it, it may be worthwhile. (Cause that might bring on other arguments, depending on what class you're racing in, "Why are you running a Ford?". So I'll stop right there.

For a Ford street motor in a Cobra, based on a 351W block; you'll get a lot more torque for your buck (or whatever a buck is in Turkey) with a 393, or 408 stroker; the right cam, and the right heads. But since this motor peaks out at 6200 - 6400 RPM. The smaller Cleveland mains don't present a drag problem until you're in the 7,000 - up range. And, with smaller mains, you need a forged crank. Most Windsor cranks are cast and need the extra beef.

Education is a never ending process. The more you learn, the more you realize you don't know. You'll swear you become stupider every day as you pick up a tidbit here and there, and have the "Devine Revelation" from time to time.

For a '67 street Mustang, you want torque and reliability. Build a 393, or 408. You'll be quicker with an automatic trans, but the car will be more fun in the twisties with a 4 or 5 speed.

Sell the NOS, dial the compression in at around 8.5:1, and bolt on a supercharger. Depending on the boost pressure and sophistication of the high pressure side (intercoooling), your engine will think it's had between 4 and 8 extra cylinders added.

If your huffed 393 engine thinks it's a 786 ci (or 816) MONSTAH, you will have few peers provided you learn how to tame it, and don't kill yuourself in it in the process.

So! Where do you want to go from here?

SPACER KIT
 

FEDERAL MOGUL MAKES THE SPACER KIT. SUMMIT SELL IT FOR $69.88. PART NUMBER FMS-M-6339-A351

AFTER INSTALLING THE KIT, THE BLOCK MUST BE LINE BORED!

Hey Jack21,
Your ideas sounds good but;What about stock block power level?

How much power are you wanting?

Max hp can stock block handle,450hp~+200hp nos fogger.Street and topspeed (165mils)usage.
First i decied to built a 383 or 393 stroker but because of the piston speed increase i didn't trust the stock block.

500-600 is do-able on an older block....60's or 70's...because of the thicker castings. I wouldn't see any harm in it as long as you had 4-bolt mains or used a good girdle....I have 500 hp in mine...it's a 79 351W block....got a girdle on it.

With that much hp on an N20 setup, however, I would really think about o-ringing the heads....and definitely use some good rods and non-cheapo pistons....

Mine is later one.I decied to use for upgrade the block Probe main girdle 3/8 with ARP studs,yes O-ring groove to the heads and ARP studs,MSD retard kit.Sact H-beam rods,Scat lightweight crank,Ross pistons.
Which girdle are you using?

It's a girdle from Ford Performance Solutions in California. .400" thick chro-moly steel....it is a solid piece with no cut-outs for the oil pump.

Can you give the part number?

http://www.f-p-s.com/engine/girdle.htm

Part # MG351W

$175.99 complete with ARP studs

If you're using a Melling oil pump, you will have to clearance it a little bit...but nothing major. Also, if you're using a Canton oil pan, you may have to "massage" the inside of the pan a little bit.

Hey blykins;which heads and stroker kit are you using? Have you got any problems with block?

Using Edelbrock Victor Jr heads...I ordered them bare and assembled them with the seals, springs, retainers, locks, etc. to match my cam....I've seen assembled aluminum Vic Jr's without any spring cups...so that definitely signalled me to put them together myself.

I'm using a 4.060" 1979 block...an Eagle ESP 4340 4.100" crank, Eagle 6.200" H-Beam rods, and Probe 10.5:1 pistons. It comes out to like 425ci I think. Dyno'd at 484 hp, 500 lb-ft with a 750cfm Demon (too small a carb....should have used an 850) and a Vic Jr. intake manifold. Power peaked at 5400 rpm, and torque peaked at 4500.

No problems with the block...used ARP studs everywhere I possibly could...and of course used the main cap girdle.

You'll find that there's quite a bit of users on here with 400-600 hp Windsor engines...393's, 408's, 418's, 427's, etc...probably most of them on stock blocks

I have got: 750hp series holley carb,victor jr intake,mech roller comp cams 608-614lift,242-248 0.050,110lsa,TFS tw heads ,headman headers. Im going to sell DUI ignition and buy a MSD probillet with MSD 7-AL3 and B&M holeshot 3600 stall convertor.Cars weight 3300lbs+200lbs.Now rear ratio 3.55 if i built a stroker im going to change it with 3.00 rear ratio.
Which stroker kit works nice with that combo and TFS tw heads?

That's a pretty radical cam you're using....especially with that high of a stall converter, you're gonna want a combo that breathes better in the higher rpm ranges....for instance, the combo that I have wouldn't make it at all.....

There are better experts on here that can probably answer your question better than I, but if I were you, I'd go with one of the kits that has a shorter stroke....383....396....408...something that would make lots of power, but at a higher rpm range.

The TFS heads will make power with anything....it's a great head. I wished I knew then what I know now....I would have went with them. I think I could have gotten an extra 25-30 hp with them. Oh well.....hindsight is 20/20.

But to give you an opinion on what I'd do....I'd probably go with a 4.00" stroke crank....6.125" H-Beam rods...with a 4.030" bore, that would put you at around 408ci...and give you the revs that you need with that converter and that cam.

Now, you said you wanted to run N20? I'd say you could get 500hp with the above combo....I really don't know why you'd want to juice it, but if you did, you might wanna look into dropping the compression ratio quite a bit....maybe down to 8.5 or 9:1. And of course, like we mentioned before, you'll need to Loc-wire the heads.....

Again, that's my opinion....I'm sure other members would have different ways of expressing what they would do.

I'd stick with a good name brand rotating assembly....Eagle, Scat, Callies, Carillo, etc. You get what you pay for. If you decide what you want, I can probably find you some vendors who can sell you the whole kit...already balanced and ready to install.

Let me see if I can find those heads for Desktop Dyno, and I'll get you a good hp/torque estimate with your setup.

BTW....that's a pretty heavy car....and with your cam and torque converter choice, you might wanna leave your rearend ratio what it is...or even go a little lower to get you in the revs quicker....

I put some numbers in.....the head that I used wasn't perfect, but it was close.

530hp @ 6000 rpm, 524hp @6500
528lb-ft @ 4500....

Im going to illegal topspeed race this spring.I will race with 540 BBC 74 camaro 750hp,HKS Supra 600hp,Turbo M3 700hp,C5 LS1 427 stroker+supercharger 680hp.Because of these i think i must use NOS :) ;)