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Old 02-01-2007, 09:26 AM
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The life of this thread has surprised me a bit but I think it is because oil systems are a bit of a mystery. We all add the items common to the Cobra mystique (new distrib maybe MSD + oil cooler + roller rockers + and maybe a roller cam) AND RACING OIL VERY OFTEN, OR A HEAVY WEIGHT OIL.
If a STOCK engine other than the add ons, if the roller cam was stock but upgraded to more getty-up then it is still basically stock. The oil system needs to be balanced to the system. If all is stock then a stock pump with close attention to the oil weight and compatibility of cam/gear is fine. Oil temp is a major thing to get overlooked and often is run WAY to cold. The start up or warm up time is overlooked by many in addition.... come on guys are you always letting her come up to full temp before zinging the RPM ?
As an Ex- auto machinist, drag racer and parts store counter guy I saw what was killing engines all the time. I am talking in very general or stereo type terms here so bare with me a little. The average stock engine does not need 50 W. racing oil and way too many coolers out there without thermostats to control minimum oil temps. Ford's oiling system design does not have a high pressure bypass in the oil filter also but has only 1 at the pump body. Many stock oiling systems have a cooler and a remote filter added to them in a series configuration rather than a parallel design increasing the total restriction. This restriction forces the pump to push against this higher restriction to the point of bypass in some cases. If a T-stat is used then only hot oil would be sent through additional restriction of the cooler. Time to reach the oils minimum temp is also greatly reduced with a T-stat.
Low gage pressure is easy for all to see but the addition loads or wear from high internal pressure is not visible to the driver. As a driver all you can do is (in this order) verify the oils minimum temp is met and then the max is not exceeded. Run the lightest weight oil possible to not violate minimum oil pressure when hot and at an idle. If either of these are wrong then the engine design needs work.
I run modified clearances on all my Toy engines learned from past builds and these larger clearances are to remove engine heat and make parts live. Oil splash from these bigger #'s is also worked on inside but in the end it is still up to driver to watch the pressure and temp's to prove design is correct.
A high volume pump is not to intended to increase oil pressure but rather maintain the needed flow amounts to reach the minimum system pressure. The manufacturer sizes the stock pump to a stock need, it is only when demands for size or flow increase that a hi volume pump is intended to be used. The catch is many have increased the needs or want a little reserve over factory bottom line design. More damage is caused by to heavy of an oil and being to cold than inadequate flow in my experiences.
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Old 02-01-2007, 11:10 AM
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Jeff, great comments for a bowtie guy.

I would like to reiterate your comments on oil temps. Engine oil is designed to be fully functional at 212 degrees. It is also the temp that viscosity is determined at. I know of a few guys that run an oil cooler without a stat. Temps for the couple that have oil temp gauges pretty closely follow the water temp or actually a little lower. In affect they are changing the viscosity of their oil and consequently is too think to be 100% effective because the oil is to cold. I don't know much about it, but I have heard about something called bearing wash when using oil that is to thick for the bearing clearances. This is the reason I run mobile one in my other cars. It gets to its viscosity much quicker than standard oil, especially in cold Chicago winters. Even then I still give the car several minutes to warm up the oil. Anyway, the point is that oil temp is critical and you really should have a gauge to monitor it, even with a stat.

I should also clarify that my oil pressures are without an oil cooler which I am presently installing, but my pump was designed for the added restriction. I should loose about 10-15 psi depending on the hose routing. Last year was my first full year of the car being sorted out and the oil temp on hot days was sometimes 250 degrees.
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Old 02-01-2007, 06:41 PM
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A HV or stock oil pump? Sounded simple, now I'm lost. Do I get a HV or stock pump or should I get the Precision Oil Pump and adjust the pressure (what should pressure be?).

Engine: 347, Eagle stroker, Comp Cams XE282HR, AFR 185 heads, blah, blah, blah. It's not great but I hope it's one mean little mother. It will have to tide me over until alum 427 is in the budget. My goal: drive the thing, it's been sitting for 8 years collecting dust. First wife made me pay dear for it, second wife not as supportive. Is there a support group for men with wives who hate cobra's?

How do you control oil temp, if the oil cooler keeps the oil from reaching optimum temp.
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Old 02-01-2007, 07:52 PM
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Thats a very healthy cam. I like the extreme energy cams because the 112 lobe seperation makes makes a very good vacuum signal which produces good torque. With the 185s, upgraded springs and full roller rockers you will get the 450 at the crank and more. I would advise at least a 750 cfm carb and a victor jr or air gap intake. I would not be surprised if you made power closer to 500.

At this point this becomes more of a discussion than texting messages. PM me a phone number/time and I would be glad to call you and help if I can.
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Old 02-01-2007, 08:07 PM
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Jeffko,
Air Gap intake, Proform 750 (mech. secondaries), meziere electric water pump, Cam has custom grind 110 lobe sep., Comp Cam mag roller rockers. Why spring upgrade on AFR's? Still confused about oil pump!
Thanks
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