SBF Engine Choices

wanna2be · #1 (**permalink**) 03-19-2007, 06:48 PM

Hi,

Woodz428: Agreed about the 4.125 overbore. Wife and were discussing this on our way to dinner. Would like to keep the block awhile (i.e. rebuild it) if anything sould go wrong in the future (or the mood simply strikes). Ditto the AL rods. That was a real, eye-opening surprise. At this point, a Dart block is on the table (builder prefers them), altho I am impressed with the World blocks as well. Don't know much about the new Ford "Boss" block, but do like the name. <wicked laugh> BTW, what are the other reasons to stay w/ the 331?

WildBill3: Prefer forged rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons). And builder won't even consider cast. Mumbled something about damned fools and money parting ways... This motor will be 99% street, but, I have been known to "light 'em" up in my earlier days. Just love to run the ponies ocassionally. Roadraced Superbikes back in the late 80s to early 90s (before they got so terribly expensive).

Cashburn: Sure hope I don't.

Header and intake compatability is one of the areas where I believe I can save a few dollars safely. Thus the 8.2" block seems a logical choice. Moreover, perhaps I can use the old Mallory 37 series distributor (seems to be doing fine). And, hopefully, the Holley 650 DP will be adequate. Does anyone know anything about Fort Motorsport J302 heads? The only specs I've got state 1.94" intake and 1.60" exhaust valves. Build doesn't care for them, but money is an object...

Dangerous Doug: No particular reason at all. More cubes usually equates with more HP as far as I know. But I also don't feel particularly comfortable taking the stroke just as far as it'll go because I can either. Builder seems to favor large bore/short stroke combinations. At this point, the 3.25" stroke seems adequate for my needs (375 rwhp). One of the more important aspects of this project, to me, is longevity. Would prefer an engine that reliably make a little less HP/TQ for 10 years as to a powerhouse that I'm always planning the next rebuild (perhaps that is a *little* overstated, but you get my drift).

Bob in Ct: Have considered it. May even do it. However, in my price/performance range I didn't notice any forged cranks. Nor is the Boss block out yet for the crate motors. Don't care for the 2 bolt main blocks. Hopefully, by the time I'm ready to rebuild/purchase, the Boss crate engines will be out and a forged crank and rods with live at the base of a 302/345 HP. Hopefully, but I'm not holding my breath.

Thanks for all the replies. Any thoughts on the Clevor combination using the Aussie heads (either 4v or 2v)? Seems a bit expensive (intake, headers, etc), but interesting. Maybe I'll sell the daughter.

scottj · #2 (**permalink**) 03-19-2007, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wanna2be

Hi,

Woodz428: Agreed about the 4.125 overbore. Wife and were discussing this on our way to dinner. Would like to keep the block awhile (i.e. rebuild it) if anything sould go wrong in the future (or the mood simply strikes)...

4.125 is not an overbore, the Dart block starts at 4.125 and will go to 4.185. If going with the Dart you also can take advantage of the 8.7 deck height option and build it at 375 cid. I don't believe the World block has the 8.7 deck option. There are many reasons why your builder, and everyone else racing Fords, prefers the Dart.

Scott

Manowar · #3 (**permalink**) 03-20-2007, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottj

4.125 is not an overbore, the Dart block starts at 4.125 and will go to 4.185. If going with the Dart you also can take advantage of the 8.7 deck height option and build it at 375 cid. I don't believe the World block has the 8.7 deck option. There are many reasons why your builder, and everyone else racing Fords, prefers the Dart.

Scott

Just to clarify some facts: We no longer offer the 8.7 block. There was absolutely no demand and castings are expensive.
Our iron block goes to 4.200 and the new aluminum goes to 4.155 allowing a 460 inch, 9.5 deck aluminum engine.

Wanna:Our 8.2 deck ranges from 302 to 371 inches. Although more expensive than your stated budget, here are the facts about our "World Class" line which offers 349 ci at 415HP or our 371 at 455HP. Study the "Build Sheet" to see that the cost comes from a bulletproof casting and very high quality components.
http://www.theengineshop.com/prods_pages/102035.htm

Of course if you want to dream about the "C", word we have the Cleveland Limited Edition which will annihilate your competition and your stated budget. See it in my gallery or on our sites.

Good luck.

wanna2be · #4 (**permalink**) 03-20-2007, 08:54 PM

Hi Manowar,

Thanks for the link and information. If I mispell somethig it's because I'm drooling all over the keyboard. Do you have a link to the "C" word limited edition? I can't afford it right now (insert exhaustive list of domestic excuses and budgetary constraints), but a man's gotta have dreams.

Perhaps, if I sell the Duck (calling the Trader tommorrow), you would consider cash and trade? Say the first born? She's a freshman in college -- tuition's a killer. <extremely wicked laugh>

Dave

RedCSX1 · #5 (**permalink**) 03-20-2007, 09:25 PM

Money is an issue. You will be selling the Ducati for sure and you don't want to do that. If I sold my FJR I know I would not have a another for a long time and I would miss it. FE's are expensive to do it right. Stay with the 302 block and go 331 stroked. Ask the builder to give you a price on rebuilding your current heads, if they cost more than $1000 to rebuild then go with the Edlebrock or maybe a set of World or AFR heads. Install 3.25 or 3.31 gears in the rearend and you should be good to go. All the other parts should fit up in the rebuild.

On the Cooling issue: Check the radiator out while you are building the motor. Install a electric fan if you don't have one and run a oil cooler. Might be able to get in under 5000.00

DAVID GAGNARD · #6 (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 04:34 AM

Dave:

I'd buy a Forged 331 cu in rotating assembly, they go for less than 2 grand, use your same block and the J-302 heads (BTW:J-302 alum. heads are very good heads), put in a hydraulic roller cam with the lift in the 550 range and you should have about 400 hp and a very streetable yet fast motor..........

I have the Eagle forged 331 rotating assy., and love it, with flat top pistons, you should have around 10 to 1 compression and run fine on premium pump gas.....have a good shop go thru the heads and do a valve job, add some good roller rockers and your in business, probably could get it done for around 4 thousand tops............

You have a very reliable and stretable motor with plenty of pep............

David

emanon · #7 (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 05:07 AM

You need a good base to start from and that would be either the Dart or World products 302 Block. I have a Dart 408 and it is a strong engine but I really like the World products "new" 6 bolts per cyl. block. You can use your existing heads but when you get serious you can go with the new World products 6 bolt heads.
World has some nice crate engines with a warranty but if your budget won't allow that at least start out with the bare block from them.

E