Dip stick pops out of tube at 5000+ rpm

rattlesnakepete · #1 (**permalink**) 08-29-2007, 08:37 PM

I have been wrestling with a proplexing problem with my windsor. My engine is built for 2000 to 6000 rpm. The dip stick will pop out of the tube ( front cover 1969 model) when the motor sees 5000 or more rpm. This can make somewhat of a mess in my engine compartment.

I have a Canton 9 qt. road race pan/windage tray/ pick/ crank scraper kit.

I run 8 1/2 qts of oil total/

Big KN stlye valve cover breather on one side and a free working PCV hooked to manifold vacuum on the other cover. I have confirmed the proper function of both.

The dip stick fits plent tight in the tube.

I do not know if this is crank case pressure or oil impingining of the dip stick that causes it to pop out like this.

Any experiences or ideas of what could be wrong?

xlr8or · #2 (**permalink**) 08-29-2007, 08:51 PM

how much does the dipstick tube and handle wiggle if you just rev it up in neutral? Could just be vibrating out if it's not a crankcase pressure problem.

wtm442 · #3 (**permalink**) 08-29-2007, 08:55 PM

Mine does the same thing. It pops out about 3/4 to 1 inch max. But I'm not sure at what RPM it pops out. I would assume its crankcase pressure. But no oil comes out of the dipstick on mine.

kris-kincaid · #4 (**permalink**) 08-29-2007, 09:13 PM

I had a '66 Mustang with a worn out 200 six in it that did the same thing. I fixed it by using lockwire to hold it down, then the PCV valve started doing it so I lockwired it down too. Problem solved!

Jac Mac · #5 (**permalink**) 08-29-2007, 10:27 PM

Grab an old plug lead boot -Plug end - Straight type. Force this over the end of the dip stick & refit so that it becomes a seal & retainer. Its a harmonic thing that sets up in the dipstick and it just vibrates out at those RPM's. Just another lack of thought @ the design stage on fords part

, the oil being flung of the timing chain is aimed straight at the dipstick tube and any crankcase pressure tends to carry it up the tube. If they had fitted the dipstick on the other side of the timing cover or in the pan like some other models it doesnt seem to happen.

Jac Mac

camr · #6 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 04:05 AM

Might not be a bad idea to run compression and leakdown. Maybe your engine is sending you a message.

Burgs · #7 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 05:22 AM

Is the dip stick tube in the stock location, or in the canton pan?

In the stock location, I had the stick curling under and making contact with the stroker crank, popping the stick out of the tube. I moved it to the pan, and problem solved.

John McMahon · #8 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 05:31 AM

can be fixed using an insulated clamp and a spring.

Secure the clamp on the tube with an eyelet to put the spring through. Attach the spring to the dipstick. The spring is easily detached when you need to check oil levels. I had this setup on my last two race cars and had no problem.

DAVID GAGNARD · #9 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Grab an old plug lead boot -Plug end - Straight type. Force this over the end of the dip stick & refit so that it becomes a seal & retainer.

Quote:

Secure the clamp on the tube with an eyelet to put the spring through. Attach the spring to the dipstick. The spring is easily detached when you need to check oil levels. I had this setup on my last two race cars and had no problem.

I've used both these methods and they work well......for some reason on my present motor, the dipstick is very hard to push down the tube and will not pop out, even at 7000rpms.........

The spring method works well, but the spark plug boot method looks better to me..

David

bobcowan · #10 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 09:58 AM

The problem is that you're building up a lot of crank case pressure. That pressure has to go somewhere, and will find the weakest point.

You can attach and seal the dipstick better. But then it's not the weakest point. That pressure will blow out of somewhere else - like the rear main seal.

rdorman · #11 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camr

Might not be a bad idea to run compression and leakdown. Maybe your engine is sending you a message.

Do just to be sure. Make sure the PCV hose doesn't collapse either. Otherwise, I used the spring method

ERA Chas · #12 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 04:28 PM

Take 1 1/2 to two quarts of oil out and then run 5000. You don't need 8 1/2 qts in there. Yes, you've got a scraper, tray and baffled chambers. I've run 7 in my same Canton in a sideoiler for 16 years.
Barring other issues we don't know about, that should stop your problem and won't hurt the engine-even in track use.

CHANMADD · #13 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 06:10 PM

I keep my dipstick in the trunk and plug the tube with (Brake nipple cover) a rubber pushed in. My worry was that I had seen the dipstick tube move and then the stick get's caught up in the crank,nnot cool!!

JayBar · #14 (**permalink**) 08-31-2007, 05:35 PM

I was having a problem with oil coming out the breather with my set up.
I had a canton 7 qt pan remote filter and oil cooler and was running 8.5 qts. Canton told me the 7 gts included the filter, so I added 3/4 qt for the cooler, and now all is well.

rattlesnakepete · #15 (**permalink**) 08-31-2007, 06:55 PM

A wealth of information and sound advice from all of you good fellows.

Thanks a bunch for your input!

McObra · #16 (**permalink**) 08-31-2007, 09:01 PM

Sounds like bobcowan has it right. If you secure the dipstick in the tube,
the pressure will go elsewhere.

CHANMADD · #17 (**permalink**) 08-31-2007, 11:45 PM

Make sure that your valve covers have a baffle under both breather and PCV openings.That caused me the same problems that you are having.