timing marks on damper question

olddog · #1 (**permalink**) 09-21-2007, 08:58 PM

I have a 5.0 engine with a 3.4" stroker crank. The timing mark pointer is on the drivers side of the enginge. Timing marks have been hand painted on the damper, with no factory grove or markings. I suspect the factory marks are located for the pointer to be on the passenger side of the engine, but I have not confirmed this. The way the alternator is set up (on the passenger side), the damper cannot be seen from the passenger side of the car.

What is the normal set up for a SB ford? Were different engines or years done differently?

bobcowan · #2 (**permalink**) 09-21-2007, 09:19 PM

They can be on either side. If I remember correctly, older engines had it on the drivers side (like my '69), and new engines on the passenger side.

Most aftermarket dampers have the marks on both sides.

Rick Parker · #3 (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 01:08 AM

All 5.0's had the alternator on the upper RH side of the engine with the timing marks on the RH side as well. It sounds like you have a front cover from an earlier engine. Some aftermarket dampers had timing marks suitable for bothe locations and both early and late front covers.

Bonos · #4 (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 05:49 AM

An easy solution would be to determine TDC and then install a timing tape and you can index the tape to your most accessible location.
Bonos

olddog · #5 (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 10:10 AM

Thanks for the info - all.

I would like to change the damper, but if the crank was ballanced with this damper, that would be a bad move. Since I do not know if the assembly was ballanced together, I will assume it was and just stay with this damper.

This winter when I pull the headers and side pipes (weld flanges), I will have the plugs out. I'll find TDC of number 1 and install a timing tape then.

The previous owner was very honest with me. Everything I have looked over on the car was done well. I have found no short cut rig jobs. So for now, I will trust that the painted markings are correct.

Rick Parker · #6 (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 10:03 PM

Any good engine machine shop can determine by looking at the balancer if it is a "0" balance, 28 oz imbalance or other. Generally it's not necessary to disasemble the engine for this, just take the balancer to a good shop.

olddog · #7 (**permalink**) 09-23-2007, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

Any good engine machine shop can determine by looking at the balancer if it is a "0" balance, 28 oz imbalance or other. Generally it's not necessary to disasemble the engine for this, just take the balancer to a good shop.

Are you saying that any balancer of the correct offset is close enough that you wouldn't be concerned changing it?

I know for racing applications some say balance the crank with flywheel and balancer that will be used. I'm not certain how many rpms is where the balance starts becoming critical. I plan to keep it under 6000 rpm, but you never know where they may go when you miss a gear.

The balancer looks to be factory - of the non-performance variety.