Best jet size, etc ?? 650 Holley 302 Ford crate

[wtm442]

Jerry
I agree with you about seat of pants driving conditions, but a dyno will tell you if the jets are too lean or too rich. It will also tell you if a low speed stumble is because of a too lean or too rich condition. Then after the jets are OK (and the power valve), then you can play with squirter's, etc.

I find that many people make 2 or more changes to a carb at the same time. Bad decision. Only make ONE adjustment and then see if problem is better or worse.

[FUNFER2]

We had a guy come to the dyno that raced in the Pro-5 class with his Mistang. He decided just to stop by for fun before racing at Heartland Park for a national meet. He assumed his motor was dialed in. When he hit 4,000 rpm, he was already way,.....lean. We went up three jet settings, adjusted timing and he put out 900 HP. He was extremely happy for two reasons, 1- he would have melted his engine being that lean. 2- we found 32 more HP just in simple tuning. We made 5 full runs and cost him $160 (2 hrs.) for shop time. Said he has $30,000 in the motor. He kissed me on the forehead for saving his engine !

[wtm442]

Kevin
As long as the kiss was on your forehead.

I was at a dyno shop with a bunch of Cobras a couple of years ago and the owner stopped a pull on one of the Cobras at about 4000 RPM. Just cheap $ pulls on a Sat morning with no tuning provided by the dyno shop owner. He said the motor was so lean, he did not want to chance blowing the motor. He told the Cobra owner to drive home, do not floor the gas pedal, and increase the jet sizes by 4 to 6 steps on primary and secondary.

[FUNFER2]

Jerry- he is one of our sponsors on our sprint car so, $150 was cheaper for him. We don't overcharge our new customers. Because of that reason, we have four dyno nights per week. It brings in a lot of business. There is now way,......you can beat tuning on a chassis dyno ! You can even calibrate for weather conditions. If the operator can't tune your car for the street, you had better find a better one. There are some dyno shops out there that the operator is only a computer geek, not a mechanic.
Our Mustang dyno is a real world test, unlike the dynosport. The only changes after a dyno run you'll have to make is if the weather changes a great deal if you're racing or, a elevation change. We've had drag racers spend hours in the pits trying to find what the motor needs. They come to our shop for a dyno run and figure it out in one hour or less.

442- We also have a "dyno day" (the last was for all Mopars) and they were single runs for $50. It was a blast for all of us. Had pizza & soda (some had beer) Now, most want to come back to dial in their engines. That will be more $$$. We have all the jet's, spark plugs and distributer springs ect... to super tune most engines.
The dyno is good for our business as we don't over charge plus, "the word of mouth" for the dyno and our regular daily driver mechanic business is fantastic. We even put our sprint car on the dyno. Long story but, it was hilarious.

[rdorman]

Pick up a holley tuning book. Set the total timing according to manufacturers recomendations. Set your idle speed. Check your initial, should be in the 12-14 range with that cam so long as it starts after a hot soak. Many are not curved right. Take the carb off and check the transfer slot. it should be exposed 'square' to maybe twice that (the book will explain it), if not, get it right and adjust the secondary butterflys by the amount of the front (ie 1 turn close on the front, one open on the back). Set your float height (up till it drips, down till it stops, that is max, do down from their for tuning). Set your idle mixture, adjust your accelorator pumps. Call me in the morning

[CobraEd]

Originally Posted by rdorman

Pick up a holley tuning book. Set the total timing according to manufacturers recomendations. Set your idle speed. Check your initial, should be in the 12-14 range with that cam so long as it starts after a hot soak. Many are not curved right. Take the carb off and check the transfer slot. it should be exposed 'square' to maybe twice that (the book will explain it), if not, get it right and adjust the secondary butterflys by the amount of the front (ie 1 turn close on the front, one open on the back). Set your float height (up till it drips, down till it stops, that is max, do down from their for tuning). Set your idle mixture, adjust your accelorator pumps. Call me in the morning

Uhhh how about the main jets???? They are the key element of performance tuning. All this other stuff is just carburators 101.

[rdorman]

Originally Posted by CobraEd

Uhhh how about the main jets???? They are the key element of performance tuning. All this other stuff is just carburators 101.

Uhhh which is exactly what he needs to start with.