Turkey pan with 2x4's

[ERA Chas]

Yes guys I agree that more area is a good thing-it worked for me.
Guys that dyno a lot like Barry or Keith could give a much better explanation than me. But I've heard from some pros that how the air approaches the throats is a more critical factor than volume. Many test with only a drop base which I'm told smoothes the air's approach-result a few more HP. Some say filters are necessary to straighten or direct the air vs. no filter or base at all. I used to witness dyno testing daily on 500 to 1200HP engines. All manner of filters were tried (interestingly-no fliter tops) K/N, Moroso, Accel etc. Across the board, every thing made 3 to 7HP more with no filter. Remember that a dyno's air feed is straight down-no dynamic effect. Possibly dyno filters would work better with an open top.
But dynos are stationary. An effective in-car setup will definitely add some ram effect, no matter how small. I found that to be true.
Pro stock scoops are all about flow and their opening area seems small for 1400HP-but there's a ton of science in how the air is directed to and around the carbs and the pressure increase as the car moves down track.
The other factor discussed is heat and keeping heat away from the throats is a good thing. My pan stopped the stalling on braking by keeping a more-dense air charge reaching the carbs instead of the hot engine bay air which is much less dense.
It is much less critical IMO in our cars to keep heat away from the carb bowls. The only time you'll boil fuel is if the line is in proximity to say, the headers (yikes!) or the cylinder head. Insulating fuel lines is not a bad thing but is overkill in our cars unless you're looking for another .010.
Turkey pans were on the real deal and were a good solution 45 years ago. They bring back the nostalgic look. But there are other effective ways to improve power today.
I wrote this in "quick reply" but I'm sorry it turned into a sermon...