Degreeing my cam questions

onefastmustang · #1 (**permalink**) 02-26-2009, 02:12 PM

I have received my new valvetrain from Keith Craft. Obviously the cam is custom grind since the grind doesn't show on the comp cams website. Since it is a custom I should obviously degree it. Having never done this procedure before I don't have those tools handy. Can any one recommend a source for them? Also can this be done effectively with the heads on?

sllib · #2 (**permalink**) 02-26-2009, 02:22 PM

Summit sells a kit for around $100, CompCams about $140, but my advice is find someone who has done it, has a kit, do it together and buy the beer. Unless you're going to build more engines the only part of the kit you're likely to use again is the run-out guage. The heads should be on so you can find TDC to set your wheel up.

RedBarchetta · #3 (**permalink**) 02-26-2009, 03:17 PM

You can fabricate a piston stop using an old spark plug that you drill out, tap and insert a bolt into. Comp Cams sells a custom crank snout socket for turning the motor with a long ratchet/torque bar, and with a degree wheel that fits on the end will come in (total) around $55-60. You can then fashion a pointer from a coat hanger and then it's just a matter of figuring out TDC from there. Then readjust the wheel and re-check. Are you installing it straight up or advancing 4* to allow for chain stretch? Comp Cams machines many of their cams with the built-in 4* advance for this purpose (or at least they used to...it's been a while since I did this). You may want to give Keith Craft a call to determine his recommended configuration for the cam that you have.

-Dean

onefastmustang · #4 (**permalink**) 02-26-2009, 07:29 PM

I beleive from reading the docs that the cam is advanced 4 degrees.. It doesn't say anything about it on the cam card. Ill call Keith and see what he has to say. I will probably order a kit as I doubt this is my last engine build. I am after all only 42.

bobcowan · #5 (**permalink**) 02-27-2009, 05:11 PM

You don't need to spend a lot of money on a "kit". Sourcing the individual pieces that you need can sometimes save some bux. Here's what you need:

- Degree wheel
- Dial indicater
- Magnetic base
- Piston stop - only if the heads are on.

Check the sale section at Summit Racing; I think I saw a dial indicater with stand on sale this week. Watch e-bay and craigs list.

Comp Cams has an excellent set of instructions for doing this: http://compcams.com/Technical/Instru.../Files/145.pdf

onefastmustang · #6 (**permalink**) 02-27-2009, 05:22 PM

I actually already have a dial indicator and mag base for it. I have a piston stop as well. I guess I just need the degree wheel and a keg of beer...

Don't I need the softer springs or can it be done with the stock springs??

Monster · #7 (**permalink**) 02-27-2009, 06:09 PM

There's currently a complete Comp Cams set on ebay (current bid $39)

ebay.com/ebaymotors/comp-cams-degree-set

I picked my set on ebay a few years ago for about $65. There are also wheels only if you have everything else.

Mike

bobcowan · #8 (**permalink**) 02-27-2009, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onefastmustang

I actually already have a dial indicator and mag base for it. I have a piston stop as well. I guess I just need the degree wheel and a keg of beer...

Don't I need the softer springs or can it be done with the stock springs??

It will be easier with light weight checking springs, but it's certainly not a requirement. This is how I do mine:

If you decide to place the dial indicater on the rocker arm, you need something to prevent the hydraulic lifter from collapsing. Find a washer that will fit on top of the lifter, and then set the push rod on top of that. That will make it a solid connection.

onefastmustang · #9 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009, 09:45 AM

So would it be easier if I picked up a solid lifter and put the dial indicator on the push rod on top of that???

CHANMADD · #10 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009, 11:06 AM

The Cam grinder should have ground the cam with the stock settings. IE bolt the cam and time it like you would from stock. The 4 degree that the grinder has built in ...should be built in and the wheel and checking that you are doing in most cases turns out to be nothing more than checking.
Half a degree here or there is not going to be noticed by anyone driving their car. If the cam is way off I would not trust anything about the cam and would buy another one.
John

onefastmustang · #11 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009, 01:01 PM

Well it is a Comp Cams so I guess it comes with trust already in it..

bobcowan · #12 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onefastmustang

So would it be easier if I picked up a solid lifter and put the dial indicator on the push rod on top of that???

No, just use the same hydraulic lifter that you already have. The dial indicater and push rod won't put enough weight on the lifter to collapse it.

PANAVIA · #13 (**permalink**) 03-04-2009, 12:12 AM

Ford Racing has a multi-degree setup (timing chain) that simplifies the setup. --Steve

onefastmustang · #14 (**permalink**) 03-04-2009, 07:19 AM

Thanks.. I am going to take her for a quick drive this morning and then come back and tear into her. Actually I may supervise my wife doing it. She seems very interested in being involved this time.

onefastmustang · #15 (**permalink**) 03-05-2009, 05:35 PM

So after 2 days of fun and teaching my wife everything she didn't want to know about the internal combustion engine we are at about 90% completed. We had to run out a couple of times for parts and gaskets but so far so good.. Hopefully she will be reborn tomorrow...