what to do with my 351 w

romehe · #1 (**permalink**) 03-21-2009, 04:39 PM

Ok so i have a very mild nearly stock 351 w in my cobra and she is a pooch
it has the two barrel heads on her and a stock bottom end the only aftermarket parts are an edelbock performer cam and intake first off i don't want to pull the motor out at this time im looking for boltons cam,heads,intake, rods and rockers here is the trouble Ive never built a ford v-8 strictly chevy
im looking for some knowledge on parts selection of parts known to work together
thanks for the help ahead of time

vector1 · #2 (**permalink**) 03-21-2009, 04:49 PM

model it after what ford motorsports does with their crate engines might get you into the ball park. i think they have a 351 with 385 hp for example.

LMH · #3 (**permalink**) 03-21-2009, 04:58 PM

Just pull it and do it right!

Seriously, if you are going to go through the trouble of bolt on heads/carb/new stuff, I would pull it out and stroke and bore it. 392 is my favorite but 408 is very common.
What ever you bolt on now, keep in mind that soon, it won't be enough and you'll be looking for more.
Larry

jwd · #4 (**permalink**) 03-21-2009, 05:03 PM

Bolt on Edelbrock RPM heads, cam, intake and a 770 Holley Street Avenger. Add a set of roller rockers and a good ignition and you'll have well over 400 HP and 400 TQ and it pulls hard to 6500RPM. Ask me how I know.

Jim

P.S. This was my first Ford motor. I'm a Chevy guy but don't tell anyone.

bobcowan · #5 (**permalink**) 03-21-2009, 09:12 PM

You already have the Edelbrock intake and cam. You should seriously look at the Edelbrock Performer heads. That would make an "easy" bolt on upgrade that would really wake up the engine.

I would suggest at least a 750 carb; and I wouldn't be afraid to try an 800 or even an 850. The Performer parts provide an excellent vacuum signal, so don't be afraid to use a vacuum secondary carb.

I'd bet you could get it all done for less than $1500 if you're a carefull shopper.

Working on a SBF is very similar to a SBC. The concepts are the same, but the parts are a tad differant.

The only real issue is the head bolts. All 302/5.0's have a 7/16" head bolt. Early 351W's have a 1/2" head bolt. But some time in the mid to late 70's, the 351W's changed to a 7/16" head bolt. Made manufacturing easier.

I believe the Performers come drilled for a 1/2" bolt. Not a big deal. Edelbrock makes a bushing so you can safely use the smaller head bolts. Not a problem, just something to be aware of when you order parts.

madmaxx · #6 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 06:24 AM

I thought eddlebrock sole completely packages, heads, cam, rollers that are engineered to match and give you a certain horsepower output. I would investigate that avenue short of pulling the engine and stroking.

Ron61 · #7 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 06:41 AM

Maxx,

They do. A friend of mine called them and talked to them before he ordered his package and they told him what he would need to get into the 400 horse range which was all he wanted. Everything worked great and the car ran like mad.

Ron

Pman1961 · #8 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 06:55 AM

I have a 351w 385hp with 1532 miles in my SPF 2423 currently on Ebay Item 230332405112. Motor runs perfect. I have my eyes on a stroker motor. Thanks

mikeforte · #9 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 07:31 AM

Hi romehe,
I have Edelbrock packages and stroker kits. What year is your 351-W? I would HIGHLY recommend a hydraulic roller cam over the stock flat tappet hyd cam. A cam/lifter failure will do to much damage to not concider the roller setup.
Call me with any questions.

romehe · #10 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 07:43 AM

thanks guys for all of the reply's
mikeforte im not sure what year it is i bought the car with the motor installed what numbers do i need to find that out ? i do not want to pull the motor at this time (i dont have the time) thanks again

madmaxx · #11 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 07:58 AM

PMAN,

No stroker, go all the way big block if you like the low end torque. If not the only way is Roush 427SR.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pman1961

I have a 351w 385hp with 1532 miles in my SPF 2423 currently on Ebay Item 230332405112. Motor runs perfect. I have my eyes on a stroker motor. Thanks

mikeforte · #12 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 08:10 AM

Hi romehe,
You can convert to hydraulic roller with little extra expense. If you need a parts quote I'll be glad to go over it with you. I have EVERYTHING needed in stock.
If you don't know what year you have I would disassemble to the block and access the condition of the inside like cylinder wall, piston & all and then go forward. If budget is what you need we can do that or I build 427-W that is always an option....

bobcowan · #13 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by romehe

thanks guys for all of the reply's
mikeforte im not sure what year it is i bought the car with the motor installed what numbers do i need to find that out ? i do not want to pull the motor at this time (i dont have the time) thanks again

The block casting number is on a pad above the starter. Sometimes it can be seen with the starter in place, and sometimes not. The block casting number will tell you what year it was produced.

As a side note, if you have a flat tappet cam, be sure and use oil with plenty of zinc, or use a zinc additive.

vector1 · #14 (**permalink**) 03-23-2009, 03:56 AM

lot of information here with a comparison of the heads at the bottom.

http://www.airflowresearch.com/store/articles.php

Mark O'Neal · #15 (**permalink**) 03-23-2009, 10:46 AM

I'm with Mike Fortes.

First: Assess what you have.

Second: Describe your goal. How much power you want, and how you're going to drive the car.

Third: design the most reliable, least expensive way to accomplish you goal.

In this process....don't automatically eliminate anything.

PANAVIA · #16 (**permalink**) 04-01-2009, 03:33 AM

If you are going to update the cam --go roller. it is worth the expense.

dont forget the different head bolts required if you swap heads (7-16th vs 1/2in.) 302 heads are smaller holes....

Since this block has been in service a while you may want to check the block deck surfaces -- for straightness (if you decide to pull heads ) .

You may be better served in commissioning a 408W - that way you KNOW what you are getting and surprises are solved before the engine goes into the bay, not after.

--Steve