pull it?

rdc767 · #1 (**permalink**) 04-07-2009, 02:17 PM

Pull my oil pan to check for metal from my cheap pushrods.(see previous post on broken push rod stud) Well I found some copper looking shavings that could be bearing material? There was some metal that look like the pushrod metal stuck to the magnetic oil plug. Not alot but does it matter?

I pulled the # 7 connecting rod cap and # 3 crank bearing. Not sure how bad this is? some streaking and very tiny flecks on the rod bearing. Main bearing looks ok.

Do I bite the bullet and pull the motor and replace the bearing and flush the motor of and any floating metal? or

Clean up and let it ride?

Ron

color on the next 2 are off.

madmaxx · #2 (**permalink**) 04-07-2009, 02:24 PM

As long as you maitain oil pressure, let it ride. I have seen much worse and much better. It definelty appears you took some contaminants through the bearings. I am interested to hear what other say. Now if it is a warranted engine, take it out asap and send it back!!!

RedBarchetta · #3 (**permalink**) 04-07-2009, 02:48 PM

I'm with Madmaxx in that if you still have oil pressure then a good cleaning and bearing swap (done in the car) is feasible. Last year I started to lose oil pressure and upon inspection of my main bearings had this to look at:

So the bearings were surely going (on a motor with only 10,000 miles at the time) and something worked its way into the oiling system. The crank was still shiny with no scoring so I swapped out all the mains and even swapped out the connecting rod bearings just to be safe (they weren't even close to showing signs of wear like these mains were). I also swapped in a fresh oil pump and gently flushed the oil cooler and all lines. This brought my oil pressures back to where they should be and so far so good.

Good luck!

-Dean

vector1 · #4 (**permalink**) 04-07-2009, 03:02 PM

if there was anything in the sump picked up by the pump it should go through the filter before the rotating assembly. looks like a dry start to me, if there were particles in the oil you would see a definite starting point of the streaks, not a gentle start and end, but i could be wrong.

let er ride, those bearings don't look that bad, just make sure to put it back together with attention to detail.

PANAVIA · #5 (**permalink**) 04-08-2009, 08:14 PM

Clean clean clean -- bearing swap, (clean) Run it and keep it (clean) lubed with fresh (clean) oil and filters
- remember copper is not magnetic so you might want to pop the pan in 500-1000 miles and check (clean) it again. ---Steve

Clois Harlan · #6 (**permalink**) 04-09-2009, 06:36 AM

My thoughts are that since you have gone this far replace the bearings (Main and Rod) and you won't have to worry about any thing. Turn or polish the crank and bearings should cost you less than $200 including a new oil pan gasket.

Clois Harlan

Three Peaks · #7 (**permalink**) 04-09-2009, 09:14 AM

Ron,
On my computer, the last two pictures show up as copper colored bearings. Is this just the picture/lighting or is the gilding metal gone?

If you don't see any scratches on the bearings, you are probably good to go. However, keep in mind that replacing the rod and main bearings won't help if you got debris into the cam bearings, cam/lifter lobes or rocker bearings.

Only two ways to go- put it back together and hope it's alright (probably is), or pull it, and do a complete tear down and inspect parts for terminal metal debris and clean thoroughly before reassembly if bearings look okay. You may want to also check for any other broken parts in the valley, pan, or on top of the heads from your previous problem.

Just my .02 worth..

Bob

rdc767 · #8 (**permalink**) 04-13-2009, 10:42 AM

The color on the last two are to dark, the bearings are silver.

update.
I decided to put it all back together and let it ride. So far it sound good. I have ran about 50 miles over the weekend. I pulled the valve covers and the oil looks clean. If all holds together I'm going to change the filter in another 50 and cut it up and check for chips.
Thanks for the tips.
Ron

PANAVIA · #9 (**permalink**) 04-13-2009, 11:08 AM

you may also want to drop the pan again ( i know it is a pain) but sometimes bearing material will stick to the bottom of the pan and not get picked up by the pickup or filter(s)

careful on cutting open the filter !!!

Steve

rdc767 · #10 (**permalink**) 04-13-2009, 03:11 PM

Pulling the pan is a pain without a lift. I going to invent a pan that you can service the pump and check out what sitting on the bottom without taking off the entire pan.

Ron

vector1 · #11 (**permalink**) 04-13-2009, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdc767

Pulling the pan is a pain without a lift. I going to invent a pan that you can service the pump and check out what sitting on the bottom without taking off the entire pan.

Ron

www.billetfab.com

madmaxx · #12 (**permalink**) 04-13-2009, 05:41 PM

Funnny you mention that, back in the late 60' early 70's gm made the timing gears out of nylon, after about 100k miles the teeth would break off and get in the oil pump then bang, it would break. I cut a square out of the oil pan under the oil pickup screen so I could access the screen without removing the pan which required engine removal.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdc767

Pulling the pan is a pain without a lift. I going to invent a pan that you can service the pump and check out what sitting on the bottom without taking off the entire pan.

Ron