The way to adjust valves could be done 3 different ways. With the motor running, with the motor hot, with the motor cold. There has been a couple of threads alone on valve adjustment the correct way. Do all of them work, to a degree, will it get the job done,yes. I run a hydro cam with anti pump lifters, (crane) once the lifter is pumped you can't adjust the rocker, if you tighten the valve will open and stay that way after 20 minutes of running at 2k rpm. Only way with just this lifter I have found is to R&R each lifter and pull apart to get the
oil out of the housing. Reassembly dry and adjust rocker until the push rod stops spinning and a 1/4 turn on the adjuster and lock down. You asked about
oil pressure for an FE motor. To me the weakest point is the rod bearings, they are small. Under NORMAL driving conditions and regular 3 k
oil changes, this motor should last 100K. Will the 10 psi for every 1k rpm work, questionable. I wouldn't have any of my motors idling at 10 psi, min is 25-30 for me. 100 psi spring is what I use in my motors, it is hard on the distributor gear, cam shaft, timing chain, and end lash for the mainshaft in the distributor. Cold start about 130-135psi. Oil has changed in the last 5-10 years. Beginning of the year, guys where wiping out cam shafts right and left. Not just the top builders, good mechanic at home. a couple of different ideas where covered, they all could help solve the problem but the cause was not determined. Rod bolts are torque to a spec of 52-58 lbs. The new way is to use the stretch bolt method and get a .006" on the rod bolt. The spec with a tork wrench is about 65-68 lbs. 10 lbs more than spec. Both are FACTS, which one is correct???? Been building motors since the mid 70's alot has changed. Something basic like valve adjustments. I try and give out the best and latest info I can to help anyone. If I don't know I tell you. Alot of machinist rebuild a motor to spec like you said. Alot of guys with FE motors will tell you if there are not 5-10 FE blocks in the shop, go somewhere else. As far as buying parts, it's the same thing, if you buy the part from the car company that makes the car,99% of the time the part fits perfect, If you buy from outside the part is to fit many different manufactured cobras. They are not built all the same way, you can make this part fit with work. Quality of the part is alot of time the price differents. I try and save money on my car too, but have found that going cheap doesn't always work. After 28+ years of dealership work, there are still alot of grey areas. If it was easy everyone could fit there own car. 50+ computors in the 07's and up cars and trucks. 200 amp alt's in them too. 48 volt system may be just around the corner O'boy. And you wonder why the average mechinic is 35-37. Me 50. Motors are a living, breathing thing, build 10 the same way and one will be better than the rest. Fact. Rick Lake
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