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SPF Oil Temp Gauge Replacement.
Three months old and the mechanical oil temp gauge went south.
Ordered a new one from Nisonger and it should be here this week. My question is this: How the heck do I pull the temp wire end and the large end nut through that small hole in the firewall that also has my water temp wire and my speedo cable going through it? The hole in the firewall, along with the rubber grommet, appear to barely be large enough for the hold down nut to go through alone. How do I slide out the old wire and nut without removing the speedo cable first? There has to be an easier way. Or should I just drill another hole in the firewall and route just the oil temp gauge wire through it? There doesn't look like there is enough room to slide out the old cable and nut through the firewall hole while the other two cables are still there. I know there has to be an easier way to remove and install the new wire. Or am I just misjudging the size of the hole? |
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Jim,
I recently had to replace the water temp gauge on my SPF. I had the same concern, A small hole in the fire wall and you have to get the large fitting through. There is enough room to get the fitting through and an additional water or oil temp line. First off, when you remove the rubber grommet you will see a groove that extends off the the main hole to slide one of the temp line into. This is there to make enough room for the fitting. In my case I had the speed cable going through the same hole so I had to remove the speedometer cable first. It's not as difficult you it first appears. As Doug mentioned, the gauge may be under warranty. Dan |
Hello,
I had 2765 up to the installer for a three month checkup and requested him to replace both oil and water temp guages with fahrenheit electric units. A nobrainer just cut the fat end off unless you're replacing with stock mechanicals. Can't help you there. 209 |
Since the gauge is under warranty, I can't cut off the sender.
New gauge is a free replacement. I have to send the intact defective gauge back to Nisonger in order to get the new one under warranty. I want to replace it myself rather than take it the 50 miles to the installer and waste a day waiting fo it. Since they have a 2 year guarantee from Nisonger, I'll replace the first few unless it gets to be a habit. Then I will replace all of them with electric gauges. |
Do all the of the spf gauges have a two year warranty ? SPF #2773 Jerry
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According to Nisonger, the Smith gauges do.
The date or some code number is listed on the side of the side/back of the gauge and it is guaranteed for two years. |
It's not difficult to replace the gauge once you remove the speedometer cable from the firewall hole.
If you decide to go with the electrical gauges it's even simpler, but the look of the gauge changes with the electrical gauges. Let me know if you have any questions on removing and installing the new gauge. |
So, I should disconnect the speedo cable from the back of the gauge and pull it through the grommet before trying to pull the temp sending nut through?
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I just replaced mine a few months ago. It didn't look like the nut would fit in my case either, but I jiggled it and angled it a little sideways and it made it through.
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Thanks, I'll give that a try first.
I can always use a big hammer and a punch to force it through! Not! |
The oil temp sensor tube can be put through in different places on the car; in front of the driver or more towards the center of the car, sounds like yours is in front of the driver. that "hydraulic clutch hose" may actually be the oil pressure hose from the block to the oil pressure gauge??? If it is the standard plastic hose, you should have no problem. If it has been replaced with a braided hose, you have more work ahead of you. There is also a cable that goes to the clutch. Hopefully the little slot will give you the room you need. Be VERY CAREFUL to use large sweeping bends in the new sensor tube, not tight bends, and be sure to keep it as far as possible from any spark plug wires because one spark to it can put a small hole in the tube and the gas inside will escape giving another broken gauge. PM me if you need more info, I have a file somewhere about an alternate tube routing...
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I guess, if I can pull the non working cable and attaching nut through the hole, I can find a way to shove the new one back through it.
And it's not the clutch hydraulic hose that also goes through the hole, it's the speedo cable. Sorry, I didn't look hard enough. |
All part of the joys of ownership...These little projects allow you to become more familiar with the car, build confidence, and in my opinion, enhance the ownership experiance...There is another opening thru the firewall way to the right near the side. another good place to run the tube, farther away from the plugs and the headers. get a flashlight out and look directly out from the other opening...
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I saw that hole in the firewall and it only has a single small wire going through it. But that means routing the temp cable/tube by all kinds of electrical connections behind the dash before exiting the firewall. Doesn't that maximize the chance of a spark arching to the new tube and my having to do this all over again?
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The sparkplugs are you biggest worry, and the heat from the headers. Static too. Put a small piece of plastic tubing (cut lengthwise) as a sleeve where it sits on the wires to prevent friction of the tube windings on wiring. (NOT NEAR HEAT)... PM me with an email address and I'll send you a photo...
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I recently replaced my water temp gauge and I think you are over concerned about this replacement. Take your time, pull your steering wheel off, remove the speedometer to gain access to the oil temp gauge. Then you will be able to see behind the dash where the gauge tube is routed. Also, remove the grommet in the opening in the firewall first, it is split so will come off while the wires and tubes are still in place. Pull your speedo cable out, remove the oil gauge tube from the fitting on the remote oil filter housing and start working the tube out towards the firewall. Then remove the two retainer nuts that hold the gauge in place and work the gauge and tube out through the dash. It really isn't that difficult, just don't get in a hurry. Reverse the procedure to install the new gauge.
When you get the new gauge, before attempting to install it, I suggest you test it to make sure it works. Boil some water and insert the bulb sensor into the water and make sure the gauge registers temperature increase to somewhere close to 100 C. Ask me how I know about this?:mad: :3DSMILE::3DSMILE::3DSMILE: |
Geepers Jim..."How do you know about this?" hahahaha
Been there, done that..... |
"Piece of cake " my butt!
First of all, with the speedo cable removed from the firewall hole, I was still unable to pull the temp sending unit nut through the hole as the plastic heater vent is right behind the hole in the dash and you can't get a straight shot at working the nut through. Had to pull out the Dremel and make the hole larger. Now I can pull it through. Oh, and by the way, the installer routed the original line over the intake manifold, and around the alternator on its way to the remote oil filter location. As I am working it out from around the alternator, I touched a hot lead and quite a nice spark shot out. Later, as I am pulling the coil through the firewall hole, the end unit breaks off at the point where the wire touched the hot lead to the alternator. Removal was easy after the end broke off. So, now I can't send the non working unit back to Nisonger for warranty credit. It's in two pieces! Installed the new one through the bigger firewall hole and re routed it along the driver's side to the remote oil filter, thus avoiding all engine vibration and heat. Lubed the speedo cable while I was at it to see if I could kill that needle hop. If it happens again, I'm all set! |
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