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(double post)
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Depending on the year of production of your car, here's the order I would do things:
1. Rear shock mounts if your car is among the batch that had that problem. 2. Mid grade ball joints from Cobra Valley. 3. 400 lb springs for the stock Bilsteins (if you can't swing the complete spring/shock package at once). 4. Cobra Valley single adjustable shocks. Easy to adjust by reaching your hand under the car and turning the knob. All 4 can be done in under a minute. 5. Sway bar package. If you want great handling, you gotta get the bars. Shocks and springs without the sway bars is only half the fix. But your car will feel more solid over bumps. The bars really make turn in much more positive. I don't track, so you might ask others that have swapped out the shifter how they feel. Hope that helps. |
jhv48, thanks for your response. Why springs before sway bars? Is 400 lbs. too stiff to enjoy cruising? I've seen others use 350 springs. What are your thoughts on a short throw shifter?
Lastly, which batch had the rear mount problems? Mine is in the # 1500's. |
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The Superformance factory made two changes to address this rear mount problem. First was to go to 10mm bolts, up from the original 8mm bolts. Then they added sleeves to the frame member to keep them from collapsing. An improvement, but not a true fix. Based on your chassis number, it would appear that you have the original 8mm bolt mounts on your car. At least for me, that would mean I would change those out first thing, as they have the greatest chance of failure. If you still have the original springs, then they should be the 350 pound units. The 400 pound units will be stiffer. In my case I went with the 400, and now wish I had gone with the 450's. However I'm willing to sacrifice ride for handling. I also have the QA1 shocks set pretty stiff. Most of the suspension give is in the tires. I have to add that everything I have bought from Randy at Cobra Valley has been first rate in regard to performance, quality, and instructions. Generally he is only a phone call away if you have any questions. |
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My take is that the stock shocks and springs are insufficient, and should be upgraded if you are one who drives their car alot. The original sway bars are sufficient, unless you like to do curvy roads with a secure feeling. I put about 4000 miles a year on my car and found the car way to bouncy and loose. Thus all the upgrades. As for the shifter, I like the look of the original shifter. It shifts fast enough for me. However, if you plan to drag race, you might appreciate it. |
What tires are all you running? size etc...??? with the suspension upgrades???
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Thanks! I don't plan on drag racing. I will do track days in the summer and some autocross, bust mostly just cruising around. But secure turns on curvy roads is a must! We also have some nice canyon roads here in Utah and I don't want to go off the edge (or feel like I'm going to). I do weigh less than 200 lbs. (180ish) and when I'm with my wife I would be hesitant to drive too aggressively anyway. So, I might try sticking with the original springs and switch out the sway bars first. If that doesn't help enough, I'll stiffen up the springs and shocks. I do like the idea of adjustable shocks too...hmm...lots to think about.
I weigh |
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And this is how it begins. Upgrade the springs then you need to upgrade sway bars and then you need to upgrade tires and then you need to upgrade brakes and then you need more power and then.....beats spending money on something stupid like a new kitchen :D
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Exactly! "Granite counter-tops?! Honey, we could get more ponies in the Cobra instead!" HA!
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I'm running 500# springs, single adjust QA-1's, upgraded both sway bars and intalled the rear shock brackets. I had the 10mm bolts and noticed some wear after only a couple thousand miles.
The tires are Goodyear F-1's 35 - 315 - 17" rear and 45 - 255 - 17" fronts?? I have not replaced the ball joints yet. I can tell you the bouncy ride of the 350# Bilstein's was down right scary... More than once I had my hands full hitting even small bumps in corners. The rear tires would rub the inside fender wells and the car would almost fell like it was changing lanes... The overall ride is much firmer and almost a little to stiff. But the handling is greatly improved and no more rear tire rub... In my opinion money very well spent... |
I'm running 400# Springs all around also with the single adjust QA-1s, sway bars, shock brackets, and ball joints.
Tires are Michelin Pilot sports. 275/40-17s up front, and 335/35-17s out back on 17" Halibrands (Stock SPF replica wheels). All iron 427FE up front. I like the ride....major upgrade. Dan Martin #408 |
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Remember, FEs weigh only slightly more than SB, so there is not a huge difference. The FE motors are thin-wall castings.
I doubt the average driver would notice much different between the two IMO. Dan |
Get the 350 pounders. You'll be fine.
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You may want to consider the 400s as the smallest option. I got the 400s and it’s not enough if you are hauling 2 people with any luggage and set the ride to soft for a long trip. I talked to RT about it before buying and he convinced me that 400s are probably a minimum for almost anyone and ther you really can't feel the difference between 350s and 400s, but they help prevent bottoming out the suspension.
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They have a chart on the spring page of their site for helping to select the right springs:
Cobra Valley's SHOCK & SPRING Suspension UPGRADE Dan |
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