SPF rear wheel bearing removal help... - Page 3

Slow · #41 (**permalink**) 07-03-2012, 01:20 PM

Sorry for another late response but just found this and I just found out I have same play in both rear bearings. My Cobra is 1606. If you would have Ford part numbers to share I could use the information. Thanks.

CWizard · #42 (**permalink**) 07-03-2012, 05:24 PM

Slow-
FYI, the bearing that fit my rear wheel (SPO 2038) is National 513058 (or NAPA BRGFW115). You'll need to replace the axle/spindle nuts also - Dorman 615-095 worked for me. Read the above posts for a reference to a hub, should you need one. Good luck!

chatterbox5333 · #43 (**permalink**) 07-07-2012, 07:50 AM

Slow, Cwizard gave you the wheel bearing numbers. I used the National 513058 bearing on my car. The hub is found in the Ford Racing catalog under kit car IRS hub part # M-1109-A. The retaining nut is Ford part # FOSZ-4B477-A. Good luck...

2bars · #44 (**permalink**) 07-14-2012, 03:53 PM

I have been reading this thread as I too have been working to replace my rear wheel bearing. After fighting to get the wheel off, then having one place press in a bearing and have it as loose as it started out only to have another shop take it apart and find a bad hub. So then using the hub number supplied in this thread (IRS hub part # M-1109-A) I replaced that. I think I am in the home stretch….nope…..The center hole of the brake rotor is 2 ½ inches and the hub is 2 ¾
The car number is 1765 with willwood calipers. Any part number suggestions for the rotor. It must be a simple ford part…right?

CWizard · #45 (**permalink**) 07-14-2012, 08:28 PM

2bars-
Do I understand correctly that you want to replace your original SPF rear rotor with a different one that has a 2 3/4 inch center hole (so it'll fit over the new hub)? That seems like a needle in a haystack situation to me. Gotta match rotor OD, thickness, and stud hole spacing to the original. Have you considered either enlarging the center hole on the original rotor or machining down the flange on the new hub? Please understand that I'm not recommending either of these because I don't know what the effect would be on mechanical integrity. But I'd at least look into it. Other options: Olthoff Racing has some beefed up rotors and hubs that might be worth looking at (Parts and Accessories), and Hillbank may have a replacement SPF hub in stock by now (they didn't have any 3 months ago).
Good luck and please let us know how you resolve this!

chatterbox5333 · #46 (**permalink**) 07-19-2012, 11:26 AM

2bars, I took my old rotor to a machine shop and had him open the hole to the same outer diameter as the spacer ring that is on your old hub. Took him 5 minutes and cost was minimal. The spacer ring is no longer needed since the new hub is thicker.

chatterbox5333 · #47 (**permalink**) 07-19-2012, 11:45 AM

Just to clarify, open up the hole in the rotor so the spacer ring fits inside. The hole in the rotor should be slightly larger than the outer diameter of the spacer ring. I ran into the same issue. I spoke to Olthoff when I was doing my job and was advised to open the rotor. The new hubs no longer require the spacer ring... I hope this helps...

CWizard · #48 (**permalink**) 07-19-2012, 02:36 PM

Hey chatterbox-
Some questions, please. You used the Ford Racing M-1109-A hub and your car has the Dana rear end, right? Did you have any problem with the hub OD being too big for the rotor hat or did the rotor slide on with no interference? And did you need to replace or shorten the studs that came in the new hub?
Thanks!

chatterbox5333 · #49 (**permalink**) 07-20-2012, 05:13 PM

Cwizard, First, the hole in the center of the rotor needed to be opened up in order for the rotor to sit flat on the hub. The spacer ring that was used on the old hub is no longer needed. As far as the wheel studs go, the hub fits more than just Cobra replicas. The answer to your question is yes. The studs needed to be shortened in order for the wheel pins to bottom out on the rotor. I threaded a nut onto the studs and cut each stud to the same legnth as the old studs. I then removed the nut to clean the threads. Final answer to your questions, the OD of the hub did not interfere with the rotor hat. And yes my car also has a Dana rear. Let me know how you make out...

CWizard · #50 (**permalink**) 07-21-2012, 08:21 PM

chatterbox-
Very helpful information, thanks! I replaced a rear wheel bearing in April. As seems to be typical, the bearing had spun on the hub, but I was able to reuse the original hub. Thinking I might not be so lucky next time, I've been trying to find hub sources. This thread has been very helpful.
Also, you have a PM.

Bob Hess · #51 (**permalink**) 09-29-2012, 11:37 AM

I got 2729 about six weeks ago and put about 1,500 more miles on her, now up to 4,000 miles total. About a week ago I noticed a roaring noise from the rear of the car and found that the passenger side rear wheel bearing is shot. I have disassembled the rear hub except to remove the hub from the lower suspension mount. I have removed the bolt and washer(2) from each end of the rod going through the suspension and hub and the allen screw in the center of the hub but the shaft will not budge. I am expecting the shaft to be able to be knocked out either side through the lower hub and suspension piece. Is that correct or am I missing something? Maybe I need a BFH (Bicep from Hell!)

I have not pressed the outside piece of the bearing out of the hub yet so I really don't know what has caused the failure. All parts seemed to be tight where they are supposed to be tight. No turning on the shaft or in the housing. The balls and races in the bearing show lots of wear in certain spots almost as if the car was sitting in one spot for a long time and someone was bouncing up and down on the fender. Maybe a rough ocean crossing. Any suggestions would be appreciated on how to remove the shaft. Thanks.

WardL · #52 (**permalink**) 09-29-2012, 05:11 PM

When I did this I used a 6# hammer/sledge. I left the bolt in the shaft I was pounding on to protect the shaft and sacrificed the bolt. Once the rod moved inside the control arm, I used a 9/16" socket and a 3/8" drive socket extension to pound the sucker through. I'm sure there is more appropriate tool for this, but it worked. There are little holes on the top of the upright on each end and I squirted a little liquid wrench in there. I don't know if that helped or not. I started with a carpenter's hammer and found I needed a much heavier hammer.

Bob Hess · #53 (**permalink**) 09-30-2012, 07:01 AM

Thanks WardL for the quick reply. I'll give that a shot. One of those bolts that hold the shaft in the suspension piece was stripped when I tried to remove it. I will assume that the person that put this together initially must have pounded on the bolt to install the shaft and stripped the threads or maybe too much zip with the impact.

wanab5150 · #54 (**permalink**) 06-15-2018, 07:56 PM

For further info regarding this thread search my post

"Superformance hubs and bearings"for more info. This is a June 2018 post by me.

wanab5150 · #55 (**permalink**) 06-15-2018, 08:01 PM

For further info regarding this thread search my post

"Superformance hubs and bearings"for more info. This is a June 2018 post by me.