Superformance chassis set up

[Voyager]

Setting up my car for capable road work (no track).

Think I need to start by getting the correct mixture of ride height, corner weight and alignment.

Just adjusted my car (SPF 2920) to a starting point ride height of 22.5” front (rim lip to fender) and 22.44” rear.

According to my longacre gauge, this chassis drop gave me the following camber readings:

o LF: -1.3
o RF: -1.1
o LR: -1.6
o RR: -1.4

These numbers are well beyond the specs listed in my Second Strike owner’s manual, but I’m ok with the aggressiveness. In fact, it felt pretty good during the test drive.

I’m going to throw in a set of R/T ball joints, and then dial in alignment.

Anyone have a good caster, camber and toe numbers for my generation Superformance?

Camber -1.5 front & -1.0 rear? 1/16 toe-in front & ¼ toe-in rear? Caster?

thanks,

Bob

[emberglo66]

Bob, contact RT at Cobra Valley, this guy has tinkers with these cars nonstop and can point you in the right direction (pun). Each time i have contacted him with questions he has spent a lot of time helping me and assisting me with selecting the correct upgrades . He also runs SCOF which is the Superformance owners site.... great resource for information.

[Voyager]

Believe it or not, I got the target numbers I quoted (Camber -1.5 front & -1.0 rear. 1/16 toe-in front & ¼ toe-in rear) from Randy.

What a guy. I called to check on the transmission mount that I ordered from R/T and the next thing I know…I’m ordering his R/T ball joints next week and now I’m considering the R/T Tuned Suspension kit or the R/T AFR Sway Bar package. What a salesman.

I was in SCOF last year…didn’t renew this year. Great site, great people…but hate to think that’s the only source of Superformance info.

[ACademic]

Originally Posted by Voyager

I was in SCOF last year…didn’t renew this year. Great site, great people…but hate to think that’s the only source of Superformance info.

It's not the only source, just the best (and most accurate). The fact that RT is still providing you expert advice without you having renewed speaks volumes.

[Voyager]

Wow. I thought the discussion between Randy and I was a vender talking to one of his customers about the possible purchase of a couple thousand dollars worth of merchandise in order to make a car handle better.

This hot button is distracting.

[jhv48]

Get the full package. Ball joints, adjustable shocks and springs and sway bars. You'll love the improved handling and steering. I ordered the 350 lb springs and they are still too soft. Should have gotten the 450 pounders. I drive only on the street and the 350's are still quite soft. Got the shocks on ten clicks and it still feels too soft on the bounce.

[Silverback51]

Originally Posted by Voyager

Wow. I thought the discussion between Randy and I was a vender talking to one of his customers about the possible purchase of a couple thousand dollars worth of merchandise in order to make a car handle better.

This hot button is distracting.

Randy is going to help you out regardless. It's in his DNA.

And I agree with jhv48. Get the full package, including the rear upper shock mounts.

I run 1.5 degrees negative chamber and it shows in the tire wear. I don't care. I would rather have that little bit more of cornering ability if I decide to throw it in a corner hard, which I love to do.

[vatdevil]

Camber -2.5 front -2.0 rear
Toe. 1/16 out front 1/8 in rear
Camber +4.5

Setup for autocross and some street. A handful if youre not on top of it but the car turns very well.

[Voyager]

Gentlemen,

Thanks for the info.

I think I’ll throw the R/T ball joints in and go with an initial setting of Camber -1.5 front & -1.0 rear. 1/16 toe-in front & ¼ toe-in rear.

I’m curious how accurate I’ll be with the long acre digital gauge. Not getting consistent readings yet.

John - curious why you feel I need the R/T rear upper shock mounts. Thought on car beyond 1670, only need to keep an eye on the 10mm bolts.

Bob

[Silverback51]

It's still only two bolts holding the mount in place.

The original design is basically a canterlevered beam with a moment load on two bolts that are pretty much even in location to the load. The Cobra Valley addresses this issue.

For driving to and from car shows, the 10MM bolt design will work fine. If you are going to drive the car hard, get the new mounts.

Just my opinion.

[ramey]

depends on what you want to do. i have 1024. it had more bump steer than steering travel, and the roll centers were about 10 inches underground when I got it.... not kidding. it also has negative ackerman. and the mustang ii has tons of SAI which destroys handling in tight turns as it dials in positive camber and jacks weight when you turn the wheel.

pretty much the worst possible front suspension anyone could ever dream up no matter how hard they tried. and the handling was what you would figure.

strange, as the rear works pretty well.

so i've been looking for custom spindles, but till then using 2" drop spindles along with redrilling pickup points, grinding on them to reduce the negative ackerman some, and making custom steering rack mounts and spacers to get the bump steer under control. Now the roll center is reasonable, it has about zero ackerman, 4 degrees of negative camber, 5 degrees of caster, and about 1/4" toe out (partly to compensate for the ackerman).

the rear I keep about 1 degree negative, with just a hair of toe in.

this works pretty well for autocross, but would be too aggressive for faster tracks, and will wear the inside of the fronts pretty badly on the street.

voyager's setup should work pretty well on the street.

if anyone knows where i can have some offset lower ball joint spacers made for the spindles, that would kill the kingpin and ackerman issues all at once, so I'd appreciate any input.