SPF Suspension to do order

[JBCOBRA]

Originally Posted by 2bars

Please explain

What are the roads like in your area? Some areas have smooth roads, some areas not so much.....Big springs etc just put more abuse/shock into the chassis and you can end up worse off.

[Blas]

Info sent.... Blas

[2bars]

Thank you very much for that link

[zzmac]

I tried everything to get rid of shimmy and in the end I did a roadforce balance test and the Goodyears were all out of round. New tires. No shimmy.

[spf645]

Originally Posted by zzmac

I tried everything to get rid of shimmy and in the end I did a roadforce balance test and the Goodyears were all out of round. New tires. No shimmy.

I had the old, old, Yokos roadforce balanced this week as well. Front only though. 1 wouldn't even balance close to being within limits. What tires did you go with? And main question is did they use knock on, or stick on weights on the face side of wheel. Mine had the knock on kind, and never had a problem, but after this attempt to have balanced, using the knock on again, I'm worried.. afraid they will sling off. Was told to do proper roadforce balance, weights had to be close to edge of wheel as possible.

[Blas]

Be sure to have the tire pressures set to what you actually use on the street when having them balanced. I use around 22lbs on the street and 24 if I am on highways. I have never seen anyone use the pound-on rim weights on the expensive rims we have.

[Chilibit]

My wheels were set up in 2006 with clip-on or knock-on. From an engineering perspective there are advantages. But it would be a rare situation that would demand them. Lately I use stick-on.

I would focus more on finding a 9700 'artist,' a shop that has their machine re-certified regularly and good coffee. My tire guy knows my car and my driving style and I try to make his life easier. Wheels arrive without weights, and the hub side is cleaner than the outside. My last three sets of Avons balanced very easily. (Less than 1 oz.) The most important piece is the artist with high standards.

All just my opinion of course.

[spf645]

Thanks guys.

A regularly re-certified tire machine, good coffee, and someone who I could call "my tire guy", and would take the time needed to balance.. Well that just seems to be very hard to fine. Put the tires on a regular spin balancer myself today, and it showed they were still more than 1 oz. off front and back. But I didn't change the weights from the balance job earlier in the week when roadforce machine was used.

Think I may just deal with it till spring. Way over due for new tires. And as guy said the other day, ( you can balance a square, but that doesn't mean it will ride smooth).

Blas, the question about balancing at psi that I would normally use was never brought up. Thanks.

[Blas]

Do some research on the markings that are on new tires when you purchase them. Light and heavy points on tires are marked with colored dots. Valve assembly on the rim is usually the heavy point, line it up with light section on tire. Interesting reading.....

The yellow dots should be aligned with the valve stem on wheels since this is the wheel's heavy balance point. This will help minimize the amount of weight needed to balance a tire and wheel assembly. So usually, whenever you see a yellow dot, match it up with the valve stem.

[spf645]

Originally Posted by Blas

Do some research on the markings that are on new tires when you purchase them. Light and heavy points on tires are marked with colored dots. Valve assembly on the rim is usually the heavy point, line it up with light section on tire. Interesting reading.....

The yellow dots should be aligned with the valve stem on wheels since this is the wheel's heavy balance point. This will help minimize the amount of weight needed to balance a tire and wheel assembly. So usually, whenever you see a yellow dot, match it up with the valve stem.

Thanks again Blas, I'll make it a point to remember this.

Brett

[jobu137]

Originally Posted by Randy Rosenberg

2bars,

The items that made the most improvement in handling for me (IMHO) were:
Tires - Avons
Shocks/Springs - I'm running Koni 3012s with 300/325lbs springs
RT's Adj Anti-Sway bars (F&R)

In my effort to chase a shimmy problem, I swapped the ball joints (and tightened the bolts on the steering rack), however the root cause of the shimmy was both missing hub-centric rings and a bad rear tire (failed Road Force Balance test - weak section of sidewall).

However, when I did swap the ball joints, I was amazed at how stiff the original ball joints were. I could not move them with my hands alone - I had to mount it in a vise and use a wrench in order to move the ball joint. Clearly these were way too stiff and binding - I thought, "How can the suspension move smoothly if these ball joints are so stiff?". So, though they didn't solve my shimmy, I felt confident that swapping out the old ball joints was a good thing to do, especially given my investment into the rest of the suspension - the ball joints, as I recall, were the least expensive of the suspension components that I swapped.

I hope this helps,
Randy...

Randy,

What are "hub-centric rings"?

Thanks
Jobu

[Randy Rosenberg]

Originally Posted by jobu137

Randy,

What are "hub-centric rings"?

Thanks
Jobu

Google found me this: Why Hub Centric Rings? - HubCentric-Rings.com