Oil Change

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

That might not be the best advice for a Windsor engine.

At 0*C, a 15w-50 oil has a viscosity of 1328
At 0*C, a 0w-30 oil has a viscosity of 475.

During a cold start, I would certainly want the lower viscosity. Get that oil up and moving as quickly as possible.

As for a 50 weight oil, a well built Windsor just doesn't need it. It should easily be able to maintain proper oil pressure with a 30 weight. The viscosity difference at 100*C is about 80%. It takes energy to move that extra thick oil around.

Not many of us start our Cobras at 0°C, though I must admit I have started mine at temperatures not much warmer than that. Your point on lower viscosity at startup is well taken, however. The previous owner of my car advised me to use 20W50 (probably because of the various leaks), but I switched it to 5W30 and it seems quite happy. I get 70-80 PSI on cold start fast idle, and hot idle is about 25 PSI. Now that I've fixed the most egregious leaks (sucking oil past intake gaskets, upper half of main seal installed backwards, bellhousing bolt into engine valley not sealed) my oil consumption is WAY down, even with the 5W30.

BTW, not only does it take more energy to move thick oil around, it's also a lot harder to get proper lubrication in fine clearances with a 15 or 20 weight oil than a 0 or 5 weight oil. As many have written, the majority of wear occurs on startup, and a thinner oil provides GREATER protection due to its ability to flow into those narrow spaces.

[MKS427]

Craft recommended/required for warranty Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil 10w30. The explanation for high zinc, in a roller motor, high spring pressures essentially squeeze the oil out while the motor is off. Zinc clings to the parts, preventing a "dry" start. That's what I was told, anyway. A lot of the guys also use Valvoline high zinc, I believe it is called VR1, not 100% sure.

[hauss]

Can you just answer me this what came first the chicken or the egg, because I do not know. I do know delo 15/40 { 300,000 miles} pulling trailers now on 3rd transmission but never touched the motor still runs great in my 7.3 powerstroke. I also use it in my 351w 427 stroker even in my jeep 4.0 high output and have had no issues. in any of these vehicles.I have read all kinds of good and bad about it do what you want I am telling you what I am doing and yes I have done plenty of research on the 15/40 delo
and again I say dam good oil high quality base stocks big budget testing with top engineers /scientist doing the testing. Go Blue Go Chevron!

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by hauss

Can you just answer me this what came first the chicken or the egg, because I do not know.

The chicken evolved from egg laying reptiles.

[pgermond]

HR1 15W-50 Conventional Hot Rod Oil

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by pgermond

HR1 15W-50 Conventional Hot Rod Oil

Rarely - if ever - recommended for a street Windsor.

[patrickt]

… and if anyone is curious, I run Brad Penn 15w-40 in my FE, along with one bottle of the old GM EOS (remember I have a SFT cam). I have a SCAT stroker crank, my mains are .003", my rods are .0028", and I run a remote filter and oil cooler as well, usually covered. I almost never even start the car unless it's at least in the sixties. And I have the high volume pump (preferring flow over pressure).

[FredG]

The only oil advice I have followed is the one from Roush. In the past with other vehicles I have always been partial to synthetics. Their advice was no synthetics for the first 3k miles. Car is 5 years old with 2600 miles. Almost there.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by FredG

The only oil advice I have followed is the one from Roush. In the past with other vehicles I have always been partial to synthetics. Their advice was no synthetics for the first 3k miles. Car is 5 years old with 2600 miles. Almost there.

Almost there?

All those cold starts for such low mileage, I would change oil every 6 months.

Gary

[patrickt]

My last oil change was at the four year interval. Yep, four years and it probably didn't even need it then.

[FredG]

I have had the car for a year and have changed the oil 3 times.

[patrickt]

Of course she sits in a climate controlled garage 99% of the time and I send off samples regularly to monitor for wear particles, ZDDP levels, the presence of water, coolant, or fuel and to watch the TBN value. The latter is 10.6 for Brad Penn right out of the bottle, and I believe it was down to 8.8 when I changed it. And if you're thinking, "gosh, wouldn't it be cheaper to just change the oil more often?" you'd be absolutely right... but not as much fun.

[CJ428CJ]

I like this chart. It makes recommendations for oil viscosity based on your bearing clearances and oil operating temperatures. https://camtechcams.com.au/media/342...ance_Flyer.pdf

[snapier]

I have a Superformance (SPO1400) with a 392 (w) stroker and have been using Royal Purple HPS 10-30 with a Moroso oil filter. I have had to car going on six years now. Runs great...

[RB60]

Maybe a stupid question, but my engine builder recommends 20-50 Valvoline, which I run in my 427 FE. My garage is not heated and the temps are in the 35 to 40 degree range here in PA. Will I run the risk of snapping the oil pump shaft or spinning a bearing if I try to start my engine in these temps? The reason I want to start it is a friend who owns a car dealership wants to put it in his showroom which is heated and I would like it in the controlled environment and have the extra space in my garage.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RB60

Maybe a stupid question, but my engine builder recommends 20-50 Valvoline, which I run in my 427 FE. My garage is not heated and the temps are in the 35 to 40 degree range here in PA. Will I run the risk of snapping the oil pump shaft or spinning a bearing if I try to start my engine in these temps? The reason I want to start it is a friend who owns a car dealership wants to put it in his showroom which is heated and I would like it in the controlled environment and have the extra space in my garage.

Just don't rev it too hard until you see the oil temp gauge move up a bit.

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by RB60

Maybe a stupid question, but my engine builder recommends 20-50 Valvoline, which I run in my 427 FE. My garage is not heated and the temps are in the 35 to 40 degree range here in PA. Will I run the risk of snapping the oil pump shaft or spinning a bearing if I try to start my engine in these temps? The reason I want to start it is a friend who owns a car dealership wants to put it in his showroom which is heated and I would like it in the controlled environment and have the extra space in my garage.

Not a real problem. When cold, it's a 20w. It won't be thick enough to snap a drive shaft. It will take a while to build pressure and lube everything. Give it a few minutes in the garage to get the temps up before driving it.

If you have an oil cooler, cover it up.

[RB60]

Thanks guys, I was a bit concerned. Even in summer, I usually let come up to operating temp before driving it (it doesn't like to run too well below that). I'll keep a check on the oil temp gauge too. The dealership is only about 4 miles away, so I should be good. Thanks again

[Azhinoon]

I have been using Delo LE 15/40 for 4 years. Engine built by dirt track racer. This what he recommended. 15k on engine no problems what so ever.

[Moriarty]

I've been using VR1 for the zinc content. If it is only for preventing a dry start, I'm wondering if it is overkill since I have an accusump for preoiling. I was always told it was to prevent cam wear with flat tappets (which I assume meant during normal operation).