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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2022, 11:21 PM
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Is there actually a Mark II Installation Guide? I don’t see any mention of it on the SCOF site. I am not referring to the Owners Manual but a true Installation Guide like that shown on SCOF for the Mark III.
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Old 12-30-2022, 03:13 AM
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There is a thumb drive that you get with a new purchase.

Greg,

As you probably already are aware, you have to remove the bonnet (10mm socket or wrench), remove the front wheels and make sure that your jack stands are on the tubes aft of the engine bay so that you have room to work and they do not interfere with the cherry picker. Removing the small bolts from the forward struts under the dash is not easy, as you have today on your back underneath the dash to access them. A thin straight blade screwdriver helps for loosening up the sealer around the tubes, as there is a lot of it and it adheres very well. After I have removed each of those bolts, I like to hang them through the ground wires so that I do not forget to re-attach the ground wires when installing the tubes. Also, you will have to remove the horn from the front of the tube inorderr to remove them.

Remember to remove the alternator prior to installation, the more things out of the way, the easier it goes. Just in case this is your first time, the handle on the leveler for your engine hoist goes to the front of the engine, if it is at the backside it will get in the way. If you do not have an engine leveler, stop and go buy one, as it will not be any easy install without it.

You will need to start with the crank pulley hanging over the transverse leaf springs and then angle the bell housing down and slowly work your way back dropping the engine, angling, and then leveling as you go to get the bottom flange of the bell housing over the cross member that is in front of the tunnel. After you get the bell housing on the aft side of that cross member, it gets easier. Just remember to keep an eye on the header that you dropped into the engine bay on the driver's side, it will need to be adjusted and may interfere with the install at times. The tail of the header goes in the opening to the wheel side of the engine mount stand.you need to pull it up and hold it in place with a couple of bolts to get it out of the way when you go to hookup the motor mounts.
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Last edited by 1795; 12-30-2022 at 04:07 AM..
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Old 12-30-2022, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1795 View Post
There is a thumb drive that you get with a new purchase.

Greg,

As you probably already are aware, you have to remove the bonnet (10mm socket or wrench), remove the front wheels and make sure that your jack stands are on the tubes aft of the engine bay so that you have room to work and they do not interfere with the cherry picker. Removing the small bolts from the forward struts under the dash is not easy, as you have today on your back underneath the dash to access them. A thin straight blade screwdriver helps for loosening up the sealer around the tubes, as there is a lot of it and it adheres very well. After I have removed each of those bolts, I like to hang them through the ground wires so that I do not forget to re-attach the ground wires when installing the tubes. Also, you will have to remove the horn from the front of the tube inorderr to remove them.

Remember to remove the alternator prior to installation, the more things out of the way, the easier it goes. Just in case this is your first time, the handle on the leveler for your engine hoist goes to the front of the engine, if it is at the backside it will get in the way. If you do not have an engine leveler, stop and go buy one, as it will not be any easy install without it.

You will need to start with the crank pulley hanging over the transverse leaf springs and then angle the bell housing down and slowly work your way back dropping the engine, angling, and then leveling as you go to get the bottom flange of the bell housing over the cross member that is in front of the tunnel. After you get the bell housing on the aft side of that cross member, it gets easier. Just remember to keep an eye on the header that you dropped into the engine bay on the driver's side, it will need to be adjusted and may interfere with the install at times. The tail of the header goes in the opening to the wheel side of the engine mount stand.you need to pull it up and hold it in place with a couple of bolts to get it out of the way when you go to hookup the motor mounts.
The expansion tank straps Jim refers to are only on an FIA, not a street roadster. Please PM me with your email and I can supply some additional details.
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