Older SPF vs: newer SPF

[double ugly]

This has been brought up before, I'm sure but... What are the differences good and bad from the early SPFs and the later ones. An SPF made in 2000 must have had some flaws that were improved upon in later years. Thanks, John

[Got the Bug]

I booked marked this CC thread when I was researching pre-owned cars.

SPF Changes
http://performanceunlimited.com/supe.../features.html

[Tony Aprile]

Double...

Here's another thread that answers the same question....

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75497


I personally would not confuse "Flaws" with user friendly improvements !!

Tony

[double ugly]

Did I say flaws? Oops. I meant upgrades. I've found a 700 series that I may be able to purchase for under 45K. Seems like a good car.
John

[Tony Aprile]

Originally Posted by double ugly

Did I say flaws? Oops. I ment upgrades.

I knew what you meant, I think 95% of the upgrades are to improve the vehicle like Blistein shocks, willwood brakes, lowered floors, emergency brake, heater box, soft top...and things like that. There have areas that needed upgrading like Windshields cracking and loosened axel nuts, Knockoff spinners that SPF has addressed and changed.

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by double ugly

I've found a 700 series that I may be able to purchase for under 45K. Seems like a good car.
John

John, I personally chose a 700 series car because it had all the nicer upgrades one would want: lowered driver's footwell, 4 wheel Wilwood disc brakes, cool air vents for both footboxes, chrome roll bar. I eventually swapped out the factory AVO coilovers for the Bilsteins and the car rides so much better. Also, the "older" windscreens are now being used on the new "Shelby" version of the Cobra, so availability is no longer a problem. Finally, with the right offsets you can still squeeze a lot of tire under the wheelwells (some report 315s, others claim to fit 335s). As for me, I plan to install MT drag radials (325/50-15s) and won't have any clearance issues (with my already modified inner hubs and soon-to-be one inch stretched inner flanges). Under $45K is still a good value if the rest of the car has been well taken care of.

-Dean #747

[Madmiles442]

I have 2000 #867 and would love to have the Bilsteins. I have 335 Michelin Pilots out back and they don't rub. I'm upgrading the rear sway bar and installing urethane bushings. Other than that, the only things I've done have been cosmetic.
I got mine for under $45k (at 5800 miles) and I'm convinced every day that I got a great deal. You'll be very happy with SPF.

[Anthony]

A friend of mine has one of the early cars, about #50, with a 351W and Tremec. Anyways, he has had recurring problems with a leaking hydraulic throw-out bearing, so he went to install a slave cylinder with a clutch fork, but it wouldn't fit because the frame was too narrow in that area, so the frame had to be notched. Also, because he didn't want to take the interior apart to pull the tranny, I think mainly pulling the tunnel off, he had the tranny crossmember cut out so the tranny can be pulled from the bottom, and now the cross member is a bolt in. Also, the diff on the earlier cars is not mounted as securely as on the newer cars, and some people who have drag raced their cars alot have had problems with the diff mounting bracket breaking, and needs to be rewelded, or, reinforce the bracket if it has not already been done so.

If you have a choice, I would think a newer one would be better, although they are all fine cars.

Is the new diff as good as or better than the ford 8.8 they were using for such a long time?

[Woodz428]

Originally Posted by Anthony

Is the new diff as good as or better than the ford 8.8 they were using for such a long time?

There is not enough info, but I would have to believe it is as good or better. It is an Australia Dana center section. The change wasn't done because of any issues with the 8.8, but with availabilty of a center section that is no longer made. The BTR pumpkin is the same one that has been in the Coupe from the begining and it was just a production change over to make sure they would have a continuing supply.

[SP01715]

Originally Posted by Woodz428

There is not enough info, but I would have to believe it is as good or better. It is an Australia Dana center section. The change wasn't done because of any issues with the 8.8, but with availabilty of a center section that is no longer made. The BTR pumpkin is the same one that has been in the Coupe from the begining and it was just a production change over to make sure they would have a continuing supply.

My initial feeling would have been the Dana unit would be better, but I recently broke a Dana 44 in my 03 Jeep Wrangler running a stock motor with 33's and a fairly mild lift. I have not had a problem on my SPF with A LOT more hp and torque so who knows. I think Dana still makes a hell of a product but in might not be any stronger than the 8.8 Ford (unless you go with Dana 60 parts).

[terry251]

John, the early ones make nasty sounds around the knee area when they stand up, they take longer to eliminate in the middle of the night, and they sometimes forget stuff. Other than that...they are AWESOME. Also, the newer ones forget their manners sometimes.

All said and done? You can't go too far wrong!

Terry

[Lowell W]

Terry,

Don't the older ones have more of a tendency to leak, too?

Lowell

[Tom of VA]

I have a very early car and have made many of the upgrades. Reinforcing the rear-end braket is no big deal. I am curious about the old windsheilds matching the new Shelbys. Does that mean the old body curves are closer to the original or new Shelby shape? Cutting the cross member sounds a little scary. How did your friend properly reinforce the frame boxes where he created a bolt-on cross member?

[Rwillia4]

Isn't the windshield cracks indicative of frame twist? I have seen many SPF's that have a crack in the windshield and this is what steered me away. Has anything been done to make the frame stronger/stiffer.

[Tom of VA]

I have never known of any problems with the frame or twisting on any year. Any windshield that has been broken was due to nomal things that break windshields. I only heard there was a inventory problem some years ago for the first generation shields.
PS:
Judging from the mounting places for the windshield and the looks of the structure I would say it was impossible to twist the car enough to distort that area.

this is what steered me away

How did you research this?

[Cobrabill]

RWillia4-you made a bad decision based on really bad info.The SPF frame is one of the stronger frames on the market.My car is #126-no cracksThe windshield issue has NOTHING to do with the chassis.

[greg schroeder]

my 2040 has a 3.73 gear in the Ford 8.8.

The new has a 3.46 gear is a Dana with stronger half shafts.

I'm happy with having a 3.73. I replaced my half shafts.

[czarsmith]

"... Also, because he didn't want to take the interior apart to pull the tranny, I think mainly pulling the tunnel off, he had the tranny crossmember cut out so the tranny can be pulled from the bottom, and now the cross member is a bolt in. ..."

Cutting out the transmission crossmember and replacing it with a bolt in crossmember severly compromises the torsional strength of the frame. This modification is specifically NOT recommended by Superformance. The bolt in member cannot provide the same rigidity as the welded in original crossmember. If you want your frame to twist and flex this is a good way to accomplish that.

[Blas]

In the SCOF open-to-all section of the site, there is a paper called "Failure Resulting From Unauthorized Frame Modifications" This modification is a know no-no....