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03-08-2008, 03:03 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nedsel
Having seen photos of those spinner wrenches before, I have wondered how you keep the thing on the knock-off itself? Seems to me it would want to simply slide off as you applied pressure.
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That steel pipe that I have shown there is about 30" long -- it's a nice length that fits well in both your hands, of course by having one hand on each end. By pushing down with one hand and pulling up with the other the applied torque is very even in the middle of the wrench and you're actually pushing it in to the wheel; there is no slippage. That's different than having a normal wrench, or ratchet, where the socket is at the end of your wrench. I think if you tried to do it that way it might slip off.
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03-09-2008, 07:51 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Cobra Make, Engine: Ex CSX3327, & AK7113 AutoKraft AC MK IV
Posts: 458
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Not Ranked
"knock-ons" jammed
Having had this issue with my AK, my experience is this is like war, esculate as necessary. 1.The Thor brass or lead hammer first with wheel on ground tapping each ear soundly in succession attemping to break the "set" loose, 2.then penetrating oil; let set for requisit time; raising wheel off ground to take lateral load off threads(use a floor jack for this) rotating the wheel to get a new "ear' on each blow, 3. the Finish line type or other job defined tool,4. light heat on center face of "knock-on" via small torch or a very directable heat device (do not heat hub itself as this self defeats the process). I've had success and only badly scarred one "knock-on" with this process. The final step is cutting the "knock-on" off and I'd hate to consider this. Recommend you do NOT use a dead blow hammer, do NOT slip a pipe over an ear expecting leverage will do the job (at best you'll break an ear off the "knock-on") Post a sucessful removal:Very liberal amounts of "Anti seize" or "never seize" after cleaing male and female threads with a solvent and tooth brush. Also good to put "antiseize" on face of wheel that mates to hub and in pin drive holes. I've left them on for 2 seasons and 3000 miles and never had to go above level 2. above to remove in a very damp climate. Don't forget the safety wire
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03-09-2008, 09:03 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Glenwood Landing or Southampton,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance, FRP460 Big Block
Posts: 975
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Not Ranked
Oh, just make sure you're hitting the ears in the right direction...I broke an ear off hammering the wrong way...kinda embarassing but it happens to old men like me. 
forward-loose, backwards tight 
__________________
Ray
New York
SPF#1052 11mpg
CAV GT40 MONO29 9mpg
'94 35th Anniversary Rover Mini Cooper 32mpg
'01 MB CL600 V12 18mpg
'08 Volvo S80 18mpg
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03-09-2008, 10:52 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Cobra Make, Engine: Ex CSX3327, & AK7113 AutoKraft AC MK IV
Posts: 458
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Not Ranked
knock ons
The direction can vary by assembler or by source of parts...but the rule is TTA or top ear (towards the rear) tight as** on BOTH sides of the car
Last edited by JBo; 03-09-2008 at 10:54 AM..
Reason: left out a couple of key words
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03-09-2008, 02:27 PM
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Regularly Offensive
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: yuba city,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine: spf
Posts: 1,231
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Not Ranked
Its a spf so it is always tap towards the front to remove.........  Been that way since the beginning and has not changed once. The parts are made in-house.
__________________
Ed
Too close for missles, switching to guns.........
Last edited by thudmaster; 03-09-2008 at 11:35 PM..
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03-10-2008, 12:56 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Grants Pass,
OR
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF #2450, Roush 342RE
Posts: 207
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBo
Don't forget the safety wire
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After reading all the horror stories, I pulled my wheels, cleaned them up, anti-seized them and put them back on.
Now time to safety wire. Is it done tight to keep the knockoff from moving too far or is there a loop left in it so that when the loop disappears it will be a warning that the spinner is becoming loose?
Ivan
__________________
Forget the health food...I need all the preservatives I can get !!!
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03-10-2008, 05:35 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Tight spinner, tight wire; no loops.
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03-10-2008, 08:12 AM
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Beam Me Up Scottie
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Squantum (part of Quincy),
MA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF1049 Titanium w/black stripes, 351W with Trick Flow Heads, Tremec 3550
Posts: 7,592
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Not Ranked
__________________
Warren
'Liberals are maggots upon the life of this planet and need to get off at the next rotation.' (Jamo 2008)
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04-01-2008, 03:08 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA,
Posts: 636
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtm442
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I wish I had this info 5 months ago, great link, thanks.
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