Sheared off lower ball joint - Page 3

Jerry Clayton · #41 (**permalink**) 06-22-2008, 08:36 AM

Lots of times we seem to focus downstream of where the actual primary failure occurred---I feel in this occurrence that the possibility exists that the upper failed first and then that the lower broke off at the stud.

madmaxx · #42 (**permalink**) 06-22-2008, 11:12 AM

Not that we will "solve it hear" but the lower is what supports the weight of the vehicle at all times, the upper just "holds" the steering spindle in place, my bet would be the lower failed first.

Does anyone have a part number and/or manufacturere of the ball joints?

madmaxx · #43 (**permalink**) 06-22-2008, 11:14 AM

one day i will learn to spell i hope, here instead of hear, there instead of their, to, instead of two, know instead of no, yes I am bored today

Kenm4187 · #44 (**permalink**) 06-22-2008, 04:16 PM

I got the exhaust header off and it looks bent to me, but I don't have one to compare too.

Thanks,

Kenm2560
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...4187/017-1.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...4187/006-1.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...by4187/019.jpg

Kenm4187 · #45 (**permalink**) 06-22-2008, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

Lots of times we seem to focus downstream of where the actual primary failure occurred---I feel in this occurrence that the possibility exists that the upper failed first and then that the lower broke off at the stud.

Jerry,

The upper ball joint pulled out. I don't see any way this could happen if the lower ball joint didn't shear off first.

Thanks,

Kenm2560

Jerry Clayton · #46 (**permalink**) 06-22-2008, 08:51 PM

Well I see the possibility of at least 3 ways

Wrong application for type of ball joint

Steering load

Brake torque load

Combination of steering and brake forces

Binding in upper shaft

In the pictures it looks like the steering arm has been moved to the short location--this will increase the loading on the tie rod which is broken---if this happened first the wheel would turn out from the load and could rip out or break either ball joint

Not trying to be a smart ie but -------

Jerry

thudmaster · #47 (**permalink**) 06-22-2008, 08:58 PM

Ken, I did not realize you had done so much body damage until I looked at your photobucket. I'm sorry for your lose.................

May I suggest Kens Auto Body in Yuba City. He did a great job in repairing my old spf. Good luck with it and we missed your at the breakfast this weekend.

Kenm4187 · #48 (**permalink**) 06-23-2008, 05:16 PM

Jerry,

The steering arm bent and then broke. From the pictures it looks like it bent around the lower shock mount after the lower ball joint sheared off. The tie rod end has been in that location for about 8 months. There were no marks from anything hitting and there was no tire rub on sharp turns. It did not happen during hard turning or braking. The ball joints were the ones that came with the car (about 1400 miles on them). Here are some pictures of the broken steering arm.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...4187/002-1.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...4187/003-1.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...4187/004-2.jpg

Thanks, for the input.

Kenm2560

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

Well I see the possibility of at least 3 ways

Wrong application for type of ball joint

Steering load

Brake torque load

Combination of steering and brake forces

Binding in upper shaft

In the pictures it looks like the steering arm has been moved to the short location--this will increase the loading on the tie rod which is broken---if this happened first the wheel would turn out from the load and could rip out or break either ball joint

Not trying to be a smart ie but -------

Jerry

Kenm4187 · #49 (**permalink**) 06-23-2008, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thudmaster

Ken, I did not realize you had done so much body damage until I looked at your photobucket. I'm sorry for your lose.................

May I suggest Kens Auto Body in Yuba City. He did a great job in repairing my old spf. God luck with it and we missed your at the breakfast this weekend.

Hi Ed,

Sorry I missed you. I was there for a little while and talked to a few people. I did not stay for breakfast, had to get back and work on the car. The worst part was after I got it out of the trailer I found more damage. The left exhaust header had been hit by the wheel and bent.

It was nice seeing all those Cobras. It seems like a good group of people. I hope you guys had a nice breakfast.

Thanks,

Kenm2560

Bartruff1 · #50 (**permalink**) 06-24-2008, 06:00 PM

Turns out mine was dry (1000 miles) ...replaced ...runs smooth and quiet...

65cobra1 · #51 (**permalink**) 11-17-2008, 03:23 PM

I've been looking around the "Search" function for some information re greasing the upper and lower ball joints

Seems when I push in a substantial amount of grease it still wants to take more.

I've been watching for grease to creep out under the rubber cup...Is there a possibility of overgreasing those fittings or do you just keep pushing in the grease until it starts coming out from around the rubber cup.

Probably a silly question but I don't want to screw things up and have to replace parts with only 4000 + miles on them.

Thanks for the input...
Ivan #2450

vector1 · #52 (**permalink**) 11-17-2008, 03:25 PM

grease er up until you start to see grease, then wipe excess off. you'll prob have to clean it off again after you get some suspension movement.

madmaxx · #53 (**permalink**) 11-17-2008, 03:53 PM

If your boots gets tight with grease that is enough, you do not need it oozing everywhere.

65cobra1 · #54 (**permalink**) 11-17-2008, 03:58 PM

Thanks folks,
I appreciate the quick answers while it's still up on the rack...Looks like I have to pull the front wheels to get at that top zerk so back to work.
Ivan #2450

peters44 · #55 (**permalink**) 11-17-2008, 04:26 PM

Ken, glad to your OK it could have been worst. Hope your back on the road soon.
Peter