Common Superformance Upgrades
 

I’m new to the board and I’m taking a hard look at getting a SPF in the near future. I’m a long time M3 owner, but new to Cobras. Right now I’m trying to gauge the price difference between new and used SPF’s. The prices on new SPF’s are becoming more attractive. What are the most common upgrades to the base SPF rolling package that are made (and if you know the approx cost - all the better)?

The key items I know I’ll probably want from the factory are:

• Upgrade to 17” wheels
• Passenger side roll bar (don’t like full bars, but want protection for wife/son)
• Silver Ceramic coated headers & side pipes (part of base pkg?)
• Larger cross drilled/slotted brakes (I’m on the fence here - brake thread makes me a little uneasy with stock setup)

Maybe the brakes are fine, but I’ve been used to my M3’s running aftermarket brakes (the M’s are heavier than they should be). I know the Cobras are in a completely different weight class, but I’m not used to seeing wheels not filled with a rotor.

I assume I’ll do the easy post factory changes – harnesses, shift knob, etc., but I want to make sure I don’t miss anything that should be best done by SPF.

Thanks,
John

John...Hey! How are ya...? I've had my SPF since October, 2000, and couldn't be any happier with my car, or the dealership I chose...Olthoff Racing, in Mt Ulla, NC. Pretty much, if any engineering change has been made to SPF cars over the years, it originated from Dennis Olthoff and his shop....(with the exception of the smaller rear brake calipers!).

I track my car quite a bit, and over the years I've owned it, I've made several changes to it for both safety and reliability reasons. Some for cosmetic reasons, but most for safety and reliabilty. Funny...but since I don't take passengers in my car, I've not opted for either dual or the two-place roll bar option. But...here's a list of what I've done to #770....

- Wilwood Superlite front brakes - special application from Dennis O's shop - $1500
- Canton Accusump - oil accumulator that protects your engine from low oil pressure and serves as an engine pre-oiler at start up - $500
- Canton 7-qt road race oil pan - road racing oil pan with "trap doors" around the oil pickup to keep oil from being slung away from the pickup during hard cornering- $350
- Holley 4150 series 750 cfm carburetor - original Holley 750 double pumper with mechanical secondaries and easily replaceable jets, etc. and no choke - $600 carb, $300 Jet Performance tuning
- Performance Friction PF01 brake pads - more for road racing, but excellent stopping power - $235
- Safecraft Fire suppression system - Halon fire suppression system with cockpit activation, from Safecraft - $400
- Polished stainless steel knock-offs - from Trigo...just a classier look for Hot Rod shows, etc. $200(?)
- "AC" polished wheel centers - purely cosmetic, made by SPF owner Larry Langston (?) - $180
- Taller roll bar - slightly taller rollbar designed by Dennis O for track use - $175
- Bilstein coil over shocks - Olthoff designed rebuildable Bilstein coilover shocks & springs designed primarily for track use - $1000
- Thicker rear sway bar - Olthoff designed beefier, thicker rear sway bar - $100
- Polyurethane motor mounts - Olthoff designed poly-u engine mounts to limit engine roll - $140
- Polyurethane transmission mount - from Summit Racing - $45
- Polyurethane front sway bar mounts - better control in road racing applications - $60
- Tremec TKO 600 w/.82 overdrive - transmission replacement for better road manners - $1500, less $900 sale of original Tremec 3550
- Torsen 3.27 locker rear end - replacement of original 3.73 rear end for better road manners...better traction hook up - $1200
- Safecraft Halon cockpit fire extinguisher - this is primarily a cosmetic item to make the cockpit look more original - $140
- Smith's Volt Meter - replaces the worthless Smith's ammeter and truly gives you a better indicator of charging system output - $135
- 5-point seat harness, both sides - I installed Simpson belts first, then have replaced them with Safecraft belts due to age and SFI requirements - $500-600 a set.

I also bought a set of 15" Trigo wheels for track tires...$800 used, but I sold the street tires on them for $400 and mounted a set of Hoosier Road Racing tires - $1200 for the tires.

There's other stuff, I've done too, but this is a pretty good representative sample of what most of us do to these cars. But, having said that, if you're not interested in taking your car on the track, then much of what I've done won't be applicable to your car. You'll make some changes, sure, but not near the level of changes we do for the track.

My costs are approximate, but should be pretty close from my recollection. I keep a very accurate service and maintenance book, and save all receipts chronologically so I can look back and see when such-and-such was replaced, etc. Hope this helps...

BTW...you know how to make a small fortune racing...? Easy...start with a large one!!! ;)

Accusump
Fire suppression system (plastic burns fast)
Second strike gauge pack to hold switch and cable pull for the above (didn't want to drill my dash)
Upgraded brakes

John,

Good luck on your search. Lots of great used SPF cars and deals on new ones right now.

The 17"s will give you more options regarding tires. I've only seen a picture, but SPF offers a roll bar option that looks better that two hoops. There was a debate on a previoius thread regarding two roll bars vs. one. Some say two roll bars ruin the look and provide false security. I think the retail price on ceramic pipes is $400+ over stock pipes, but I'm sure SPF will deal on them. I don't track my car, but the stock brakes have been excellent so far.

Oooops...forgot about these...
 

John...I forgot about the stainless mesh radiator and oil cooler screens. These were Olthoff designed units to protect the rad and oil cooler fins from damage from stones, etc., that could cause you to hole one or the other. The radiator shield is aboue $135, I think, and the oil cooler shield is about $65...or so. Dennis O's at 800.297.6253 if you want to check prices. I strongly recommend these shields to protect your radiator and oil cooler - they're easy to install, and are barely visible once installed.

Again...hope this helps...and Welcome aboard....!

My installers had a chassis shop design and install my full roll bar with a drop to the frame in the passenger compartment, gives the passengers some thing to grab onto.

I'm with Freddie. the Olthoff screens to protect the radiator and oil cooler are a must. I also added a cheap bug screen in front of that .... easier to clean the Texas lovebugs off!

Thanks for the input. Definitely some adds to my list … fire suppression, volt gauge, radiator & oil shield, etc. These are the exact things I was looking for.

Freddie – good track items. I need to figure out how much I’m really going to get the Cobra out to the track (the $’s add up as you well know to prep). My current car is setup nicely for the track, but the last couple years have had few visits – family commitments. I actually disconnected the hoses to my brake cooling kit a couple weeks ago – tired of sending everybody’s road debris into my rotors.

Fire suppression switch – where do most mount it? Dash, radiobox/second gauge area or somewhere else?

Doug/EmberGlo – can you point me to a pic of the SPF and the other full roll bar? I’ve seen the debates on full vs. double. The full is probably more structurally sound with less edges to catch on – no plans to try it out. I just can’t get it out of my head that it looks like the full bar should go on a fiat – personal issue, I know (no offense to those that have it). I have no doubts a double hoop is safer than just a single – certainly for the passenger. The decision is only there if I go new – I won’t alter a used SPF. The single hoop looks best cosmetically.

BTW – glad there’s plenty of things to spend my $ on in the Cobra world! The figures actually look reasonable compared to what I’m used to.

Emberglo - Where'd you get the bug screens? I need some.
thanks

John - Here's a couple of pics of an SPF with a factory installed roll bar.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_0678.jpg

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_0673.jpg

John,

I've seen the fire pull mounted in the dash more often than in a gauge pack. I needed the extra switches for the Accusump and ignition (you can see I replaced my key with a push button) so the gauge pack was perfect for me. I also added a power outlet to keep the iPod charged. If you want a more authentic look, these add-ons are definitely not the way to go.

Just for reference, here's a pic.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...g?t=1213161477

By the way, that is the top of a Jordan shifter, coupled to a Steeda short throw assembly. Two other things for you to consider.

Have fun with your shopping.

Chuck

John...I mounted my T-handle to activate the fire suppression system under the dash. My SPF dealer, Olthoff Racing, offered an electric accessory outlet under the dash, mounted on a L-bracket...really a cigarette lighter socket, if you will. They turned the L-bracket around backwards, so the bottom part of the "L" was on top, and facing towards the rear of the car - got the picture...? Then, they drilled two small holes in the bottom part of the facia panel under the dash and bolted it to the underside of the facia panel, with the bottom part of the "L" actually hanging on top of the under side of the facia panel...I know, I know...confusing explanation... Think of it this way...the "L" is upside down, facing the rear of the car, and hanging on the inside of the facia panel. (Hell...that may be worse...!)

Anyway, when I installed my fire supression system, I brought the pull handle cable down the transmission tunnel and inside the frame rails...then a big gentle curve up to the upper right-hand side of the transmission hump. I cut a piece out of an aluminum trailer tie-down bracket to duplicate the L-bracket they had used for the accessory socket....shaped it up and smoothed all the curves out with a file, and then, simply drilled the holes and mounted the new bracket right next to the accessory socket. Looks like it came out of the factory...professional looking, non-obtrusive...easy, too...and, more importantly, easily accessible from the driver's seat even with a harness on.

I'll snap some photos today and post them here, if you'd like.

Flyin_Freddie, not to hijack this thread, I'am looking to install a fire suppresion system in my SPF. what system did you install? and can you take some pic's of the nozzle placement in you car.
thanks, Mel

Freddie,
Glad to see you still around.

John,
Listen well to Freddie, his care is set up really well. I have goten alot of tips from him.

Don't know who the SPF dealer in Atlanta is now, used to be McMichaels and right across the street from Road Atlanta. Chuck Keene (Ga. Hotrods) does alot of their setups, and is really good. He did some work for me on my street rod, so I saw several SPF's at his shop being prepped.

TL

I got my SPF from McMichael, but know nothing of the new owners. Chuck Keene also did my install (Southern Automotive 427 s/o) and did a top notch job. Very professional and clean install. I still keep in touch with him, and he is always willing to help with any questions or problems. As TL said, he has a lot of SPF experience. I highly recommend him for your install if you are in the GA area.

One upgrade to avoid is the passenger side view mirror. Can't see much with the driver's side, so no point in getting one for the other side. Save your money for something else.

Sure, Mel...gimme a day, or so, on the pictures, but meanwhile...

I installed a Safecraft model RS fire supression system in #770...it came with sufficient hardware to install one discharge nozzle, and the actuator T-handle, etc. After reviewing my installation plan, I purchased additional tubing, compression and T-fittings from Safecraft. They're easy to deal with and very knowledgable about their products. Here's a link...Safecraft Model RS 5 lb system

I installed a T-connector under the transmission tunnel and ran a line straight up the inside of the tunnel. Then, I mounted one nozzle in the cockpit on the left leg of the scuttle brace, just to the right of my right knee....about 4-5 inches up the brace before it disappears under the dash. The other leg off that T-connector goes into the engine bay, and up to the firewall, where I mounted another T-connector. From both legs of that T-connector, I ran tubing around both sides of the engine bay, using the backside of the fenderwells to mount the tubing. Finally, I gently bent the aluminum tubing up above the valve covers and mounted a nozzle on each side of the engine with the outlets pointed directly at the carburetor, since I figure that's the most likely place a fire will start... I'll snap some photos and post them...

Mel...are your a SCOF member? If so, I have a complete detailed write-up of my Safecraft fire suppression system install posted there on the Technical Bulletin area of the website...full write up, pictures, etc.

FF yes I am a member, I'll look for it.

Well...there ya go...! Gimme a shout if you still have questions... :D

JJM3. Also go with the ray dot mirror mounted on the windshield frame. the cobra mirror mounted on the fender is worthless. I had mine removed and the holes filled and repainted.

CWizard, I got the bug screens ( well my installer did ) from Snakebite Performance Inc. but I think is now Dynamic Motorsports... give them a call at (513) 738-4000.... Most of the cars on there web page have them on! I attached it with velcro .... easy on easy off for cleaning.

Thanks for all the input and the pics! Bug – the pics don’t look that bad. I’m not sure if it’s a different roll bar than what I saw before, the angle or something else. The best bet would be to see a SPF full bar in person I guess to put that decision to bed.

Freddie – I get the big picture of what you did with the install. I personally like the idea of having it somewhat discrete, but accessible … I have visions of some passerby thinking it might be cool to engage the system while it’s parked (I’m sure it’s happened once or twice). Also, the wife puts up with my hobby, but I will definitely get some looks for paying decent money on a car I find prudent to stick a fire suppression system in.

Terry/Archrms – the dealer in Atlanta is Starrformance now. They just opened in Oct 07 and are in McMichaels old shop. I haven’t heard much at all about them – good or bad. I plan on stopping by when I’m out that way. Even though we’re both in Atlanta – I’m 80 miles “across town”. The owner has some very attractive prices on rolling chassis right now. I’ve looked at Southern Automotive as well – haven’t talked to anyone there though. Glad to hear the recommendation on Chuck.

Emberglo/Archrms – thanks for the ray dot & side view mirror tip. I wondered about the practicality, but never asked. Now I know … you saved me some hole patches!