Side Pipes

[RonNichols]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

Ron, do you have pics of the transition? Or did you just simply have someone fabricate a "cone" that connected the entry/exit (dumbed down from the 4" O.D. to the 3.5" that matches the 4-into-1 collector) to the 3" inner perforated core?

If it's that simple then I can just have the current SS mufflers sawed off, retrofitted, and then re-welded and go through the whole Jet-Hot process (locally), again. The sputter is getting old....

-Dean

Sorry Dean, here's the transition that I used. The pic appears like the ends are angled but the four that I bought were square.

http://www.spdexhaust.com/7degreeB.html

R

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by RonNichols

Sorry Dean, here's the transition that I used. The pic appears like the ends are angled but the four that I bought were square.

http://www.spdexhaust.com/7degreeB.html

R

Ron, I think I get it. The cone is essentially welded to the inside of the collector, just barely on the inside lip. Then the muffler is welded flush to the collector, while the 3" portion of the cone slides into the muffler, thus never seeing it's own weld but sort of press fit inside where it meets up with the 3" inner perforated core. Correct?

-Dean

[SantaFe66]

I had the same problem as you. My collector bolts to the muffler? with 8 bolts. I tried SS bolts and the lock nuts with a ding in them. I also put on a custom gasket that I carved out of flat stock. When I finally got it apart this past winter, the gaskets were just pieces, and all the bolts were seized so tight I had to cut some of them off.

I got replacements from McMaster-Carr, go to:

www.mcmaster.com

Enter the page number, 3138 into the search box. The high-temp bolts and nuts are on that page. Some are pretty spendy but they work.

I then had Remflex make me a custom gasket out of their cool material. Cost me $75 for the custom gasket but it should work. I also bought their header gaskets since I had to replace mine anyway. Go to www.remflex.com

I also ground the welds flat on the collectors at both ends because the gloppy welds were preventing a good seal with the gaskets.

We'll see how it works when I get my new motor installed shortly.

Paul

[RonNichols]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

Ron, I think I get it. The cone is essentially welded to the inside of the collector, just barely on the inside lip. Then the muffler is welded flush to the collector, while the 3" portion of the cone slides into the muffler, thus never seeing it's own weld but sort of press fit inside where it meets up with the 3" inner perforated core. Correct?

-Dean

Dean,
The cone is welded to the front of the muffler. The cone slides into the collector and you don't even see it when assembled(od of cone fits into id of collector). I guess you could do it your way but I can't fit my torch in there and hold it to line up with the muffler opening. You may have to do it your way depending on how your mufflers are manufactured.

R

[greg schroeder]

Hey Ron,

Did you have air fuel info and jet size change for Superformance internal to the 3" internals.

Greg

[RonNichols]

Originally Posted by greg schroeder

Hey Ron,

Did you have air fuel info and jet size change for Superformance internal to the 3" internals.

Greg

Greg,

I took my car into the War Room for dyno tuning several years ago when I had Superformance pipes on. At that time, the dyno guys rejetted my carb for air/fuel. When I changed to 3" and to 3.5" mufflers/merge collector this year, my air/fuel was still spot on and needed no adjustment. Apparently, this is common since pulling more air out the exhaust also pulls more air at the carb too. Once your air/fuel is set, your good.

Then again, other engines may very.

R

[Nantucket427]

I had a chance to get the new pipes on and try them out this weekend.
Wow
This was the best modification that I have done so far!
The sound is not bad, nice thump at 750 and after 3000 rpm the FE comes a live. No crack or popping. No cone used but I did have the ends of the mufflers domed down for a smoother transition. Thanks to John, Zack and Nick for your help.

[RonNichols]

Originally Posted by Nantucket427

No cone used but I did have the ends of the mufflers domed down for a smoother transition. Thanks to John, Zack and Nick for your help.

Same concept. Welcome to the club. Before you do anything up top, you should have your pipes worked over. I bet its a totally different car now.

R

[greg schroeder]

Originally Posted by RonNichols

Greg,

I took my car into the War Room for dyno tuning several years ago when I had Superformance pipes on. At that time, the dyno guys rejetted my carb for air/fuel. When I changed to 3" and to 3.5" mufflers/merge collector this year, my air/fuel was still spot on and needed no adjustment. Apparently, this is common since pulling more air out the exhaust also pulls more air at the carb too. Once your air/fuel is set, your good.

Then again, other engines may very.

R

I guess there are many variables.

I ended up 3 jet sizes higher with side pipe change.

[RonNichols]

Originally Posted by greg schroeder

I guess there are many variables.

I ended up 3 jet sizes higher with side pipe change.

There wasn't any other variables like new carb or previous carb was not adjusted?

R

[Ant]

With every engine being different ie FE427, and SBF in various states of tune, one design isnt going to suit all applications, but most seem to go 3" ID perforated tubing, and 20-22" and some going up to 4.5" case size for a wee bit of extra muffling!

I am about to make my mufflers for my more race engine application, and wonder if I need to go up to 3.5" internal perf tube for a 600+ bhp running 7000rpm! Maybe if I was running the other type of tube which has spiral restrictions or little entries so the gas can expand into the outer case then 3.5"?