Neater wiring under the hood?

[mudhenk27]

Hi all,

I've decided to do some fall cleaning on SPF 023, and I'd like to make the wiring neater under the hood. It's clustered together pretty well and covered in tubing, but I'd like to get it off the frame rails and up under the fenders where it won't show.

Anybody have suggestions for how to secure it? I guess the challenge is to be able to put it up there in a way that it can still be accessible when necessary.

I also need some new floor mats....any of you early SPF owners have a recommendation?

Thanks.....Bill

[Blas]

Hey Bill,
Black Zip-Ties keep the wires together well, and they also make a black self-stick anchor plate that is made for them. That way you could stick them to the fiberglass and not drill any new holes. Not too sure how the sticky pad does with the heat though...There is also a split plastic tube that is readily available to bundle and conceal the wiring. Did you change out the engine on the SPF ?

[sllib]

Bill,
The double-sided tape on the zip-tie anchors won't stand the heat and will fall down. I scraped the foam off mine and epoxied them under my fenders. (not easy) Be careful you don't use too much glue or the zip-ties won't go through anchor.
Bill Stradtner

[franklin]

Here is a link to some nice wire cover material. It comes in different diameters and lengths.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294805739

[mudhenk27]

Thanks for the info, guys....I'll look into those options.

After going back and forth on the idea, Blas, I've pretty much decided to leave the 289 under the hood. It's got plenty of power for the driving I do....and I think it's more appropriate to leave her as original as possible. I have the original receipt for the engine, and since it was originally installed by Charlie Ponstein, I kind of like the idea of keeping it that way. It just feels right to me, given that it's kind of a special car....at least among Superformance enthusiasts.

I'm just trying to keep it running well (it is!) and looking as good as it can for a 14 year old car. I'll do some paint touch up, maybe replace the rusty water pump with an aluminum one, neaten things up a bit, replace anything that breaks, but keep it as original-looking as possible.

By the way, I lost one of the stainless steel trim rings from my tail light. Anybody know what the original prototype lights came from and where I might get a replacement ring?

Thanks again, Bill

p.s. Franklin, your KM488 is a beauty.....wanna trade? ;-))

[PANAVIA]

There is also velcro. i use the 3M unistrap. http://www.fastenation.com/class.php...umbs=145,269,1

[Blas]

Bill,
Contact Mike Evangelo at Dynamic MS in Ross Ohio. I'm sure he can help with the missing ring. Is it the box shaped or the round? I have a spare round ring. Looks similar to the front indicators.
Blas

[mudhenk27]

Thanks for the contact name, Blas.

The ring is round. My car has dual round tail/turn signal lights, and they are the same as the front turn signal lights except for color.

The plastic lens fits into a black rubber grommet which also has a groove for the trim ring. When assembled, it looks like an outer black ring, silver trim ring, then the lens.


Bill

[Blas]

send me a photo if you can...I'll compare it to the pieces I have at home...they are yours if they match....
Blas
(email is below)

[wtm442]

SPF Floormats - designed for dropped floor version

http://www.finishlineaccessories.com...roducts_id=334

I take my floormats out every year and go over it with the Hoover Rug cleaner - the one that uses the cleaning solution and hot water. I am amazed at how they clean up and return to a dark black instead of a shade of dirty gray.

[Dirty Harry]

I used the zip-tie anchors with the double sided tape and, yes, the tape failed when the underhood temperatures came up. So, I scraped off the tape and tried JB Weld. It, too, failed under hot conditions. I next tried Liquid Nails construction adhesive to fasten the anchors to the underside of the fenders. It has worked flawlessly for several years now.

[Got the Bug]

Here's another source for wire and hose protection that can handle high temps.

http://www.designengineering.com/pro...sp?m=sc&cid=10

[mudhenk27]

Thanks to all of you! It's great to get so much help.

I checked the floormats, but it looks like the driver-side has a cutout to go into the drop. My car doesn't have that dropped section.....the floor is flat.

Has anyone seen mats that would be a good fit for my flat floor?

Bill

[Blas]

Yes, the early cars did not have the dropped footboxes. Once again, Mike at Dynamic is the man to ask as to where to get the correct mats...