Blocking Air Flow to Oil Cooler

[Pete Munroe]

My small block 347", 10.7 comp, 10+ quart Aviad oil pan has the oil cooler blocked off ALL YEAR.

The only time I have removed the (very elegant if I do say so) piece of cardboard and tape blocking the oil cooler was in a summer track event at ButtonWillow, a SCCA track to the west of Bakersfield...temp was in the 90's+.

Unless I am stuck in traffic, LA of course, I rarely see more than 160...almost feel guilty getting on the throttle wondering if enough oil if flowing.

I have been thinking about a oil thermostat.

OK, would a HEAT EXCHANGER do a better job of getting the oil temp UP quickly in warm up and keeping there when the car is at freeway speed but under hardly any load?

A friend of mine and I installed a heat exchange on his BackDraft 351/427 which had heating problems at the track to begin with, even after adding a oil cooler.

I think it is accurate to say the heat exchanger moderated temp swings, and as his water temp had always been running OK and it seemed the water cooling system had cooling capacity to spare no problem at the higher temps.

Of course a heat exchanger is harder to connect, water and oil lines..I know first hand. But this may really be a better solution, short of removing the oil cooler...(that would be too easy).

Pete

[Great Asp]

What is a good operating temp range for an FE, or a Windsor?

E

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by Great Asp

What is a good operating temp range for an FE, or a Windsor?

E

Water boils at 212. Ideally you want to achieve that temp so that moisture and any other impurities "boil off/out." That being said, oil should typically run 20-30 degrees warmer than the water (when CRUISING). So if your CRUISING water temps are running at 190, your oil should be in the 215-220 range. Race conditions are an entirely different matter.

-Dean #747

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

Water boils at 212. Ideally you want to achieve that temp so that moisture and any other impurities "boil off/out." That being said, oil should typically run 20-30 degrees warmer than the water (when CRUISING). So if your CRUISING water temps are running at 190, your oil should be in the 215-220 range. Race conditions are an entirely different matter.

-Dean #747

So about 105 c. What temp would be the danger zone?

[Dominik]

Your bearings wipe out at 375F, which results in 300F in the sump.

195F in the sump will get you the longest lifetime of your engine.

From: performanceunlimited.com

Dom

[392cobra]

Richard,
That is one of the simplest,easiest and best idea I've seen in awhile.

Does it swing back and cause any problems with your paint ?

[richardferguson]

Fred
it's pretty solid. The brackets are tightened around rubber collars. No paint issues or movement in 3 years!
Richard

[lineslinger]

Thermostat mounted

[Dominik]

What a great idea to cover the cooler with the number plate!

I agree, you shouldn't need an oil cooler for street use, a heat exchanger would be the better idea - unless you live in Germany where street use means 5000+ rpm on the highway frequently.

Where do you measure your oil temp? The sensor should be in the sump.

Dom

[Pete Munroe]

Lineslinger,

What brand is the thermostat sandwich plate you are using?

Do you have another photo showing the plumbing after all the oil lines into, out of the engine, remote filter mount and oil cooler were set up?

Dominik,

The oil temp sensor on my car is on the front of the Aviad oil pan.

My friends Backdraft setup has the oil temp sensor on the oil line coming out of the filter and then into the heat exchanger.

thanks

Originally Posted by lineslinger

Thermostat mounted

[Dominik]

Good, the sensor should be in the sump. You want to "estimate" the oil temp when it leaves the bearings.

There is a most valuable chart on Randall's site:

http://www.performanceunlimited.com/
http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...tempguide.html

Note:
Engine oil temp is typically 75F hotter at the bearings than in the sump!
Bearings burn out at 375F (300F in the sump)

Dom

[lineslinger]

Originally Posted by Pete Munroe

Lineslinger,

What brand is the thermostat sandwich plate you are using?

Do you have another photo showing the plumbing after all the oil lines into, out of the engine, remote filter mount and oil cooler were set up?

The brand of thermostat is a Mocal model #SP1T. This one only opens if the oil temp exceeds 220 degrees. The plumbing is straight forward. I do not use a remote adapter but I do use a System 1 reusable filter. The oil circulates through its normal channels in the engine. If oil temps. exceed 220 the thermostat opens partially, depending on temp., to help maintain it at 200 - 220 degrees but not exceeding the 220 limit.

Take a look at this link posted by RedBarchetta last year, its a good overview.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/arch...p?t-77477.html

[big-boss]

I stuck a black sheetshirt in the oil cooler hole of my car. You don't even notice it and it is lightweight.

[PANAVIA]

Rubber Sheet will also give the insects a softer landing. ... . .. hahahah.

glad to see it helped.