engine accumulater for start up

[undy]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

fordracing 65 Sorry not buying the dry startup. If the motor sits for more than a couple of days, the oil ALL ends up back in the oil pan. If you run an additive like lucas oil suppliment it sticks to metal parts. I have done this test with 4 different vehicles. There where no dry starts after having the motor sit for weeks(3 or more). The normal problem was rockers and lifters tapping for the first 5-10 second until oil pressure has built up. The noise stops.
Here's what I can prove
The oil pressure reading your on your dash IS NOT the pressure going to the back rod bearing if this is an FE motor unless it's a side oiler where bottom end gets oil first and upper ends gets it last. There is anywhere from a 5-15 psi differents from bottom end to top.
DRY starts are DRY starts, Metal on Metal rubbing. I have been running an accusump for 10 years. I have had no failures of the motor that are from bad oil pressure. 2 broken rocker shafts, different times and ran 1.2 miles around the course at race speed until saw a 20 psi reading. If it had not been for the extra 3 quarts of oil and the 40 psi pressure from the accusump I might have blown the motor.
Weight, it's nice to add 20 pounds to the bottom of the car to help even out the corner weights. Mine is mounted under the car on the frame. There is a shield to help protect the aluminum tank.
Long "G" turns again keeps pressure with 40 psi or high through some of these 180 degree turns. Auto cross is even worse to run in. Quick right and left turns. Oil has trouble getting back to the oil pan under "g" load.
There are guys here who have money to spend on motors and rebuild every year or other year, I don't. I got 9 years out of 452 motor and now 5 years on stroker 482. The only pain is to remember than you have to fill the tank after every run. A small note on the dash helps you to remember. IMO the added plumbing and $350.00 for the tank is a no brainer. Motor cost is $20K. That take me about 6-8 years to get this kind of money to build another motor. This is a rich hobby.
Have another idea, spend the money and go dry sump and never have to worry about track racing but still have the dry start problem. If I had a camera that I could but pictures of 9 year old bearings from 452 motor. There is no wear on rod or main bearings. Only the coating is starting to wear off. Do have a groove in 1 bearing from broken rocker shaft and head damage. I can install the crank, rods and all the bearings in another motor and run them if the clearances are within specs with no worries.
Bottom line, PRE OILING WORKS. This is done on every motor built with prelube on all surfaces. Go to the rag mag's and read any build up. Before dyno or breakin motors are prelubed. The choice is yours. Rick L.

I'm with Rick on this one...



I don't race the Cobra so I have a 2 quart for pre-lube duties only. Cobras by nature are ran infrequently (in most cases). Dry starts are not a good thing so it's nice to have 25-30lbs of oil pressure coursing through your engine before you twist the key...