Engine Block Heaters?

[got snake?]

I know its summer but just wondering if any of you use Engine Block Heaters on your cobras during the winter? If yes which one? Any info would be good!

GS

[Back in Black]

You have the car in a heated garage, and don't leave it parked outside in the cold and then start it, very often. The best defense against start up wear, is a quality synthetic with a 5 wt as part of the make-up. let the oil come to operating temp before taking off.

And install an Accusump !

[got snake?]

I was looking to put in a garage heater but if an engine heater is enough than thats all I'll need. I'm trying to keep a budget. An Accusump is the first thing I will be adding to my cobra after I get it. I've had that in mind for a while now. Won't 5w be too thin?

GS

[Mr.Fixit]

MINCO makes lots of different thin film heaters that can be attached to your oil pan for oil preheating. They are not in the automotive aftermarket business though, so it's up to you to determine the best heater. If it's that cold out I'd forget driving the convertable myself. Don't forget to rejet the carb if you plan on winter driving (except here in CA where there is no winter)

[Back in Black]

What I wuz referring top was perhaps a good 5-30 wt synthetic, for winter cold driving. It's not really 5 wt I suppose, but it acts like it, since it's a part of the makeup of that oil wt rating.

[got snake?]

Mr. Fixit I will have a soft top for my cobra by winter time next year and will drive it only on sunny days so I can keep the parts lubed up. I don't like winter storage unless I have a plan that will work for sure. I'm pretty good at maintaining cars but I have no clue one what to do for a high performance car during winter. So i figured I would just run it every 2 weeks around the block after warming it up in the garage. What do you recommend?

GS

[Mr.Fixit]

If you are going to store it all winter, I would make sure there's glycol in the coolant so the block doesn't crack, disconnect the battery, put it on jackstands so the tires stay round, and loosen up all the rocker arms so none of the springs stay compressed for months on end. Go out to the garage and look at it every couple of days, scare off any rodents wanting to make a nest in the dashboard, and take advantage of the down time to make all the changes for next summer.

[got snake?]

Thanks! I'll make a note of your advice and put it to good use.

GS

[Back in Black]

Store it in a heated garage, hopefully. If it is not heated, be sure to keep the top on, and a BIG pack of dessicant in the cockpit, rotate it regularly, or you will get mildew, etc..

Change the oil and filter, then drive it only as needed to get it into the garage, and or to start it once in a while.

Put PRI-G gas preserver in the tank

Get a maintainence type battery charger, put the battery on a shelf, NOT in the trunk, also NOT on a concrete floor, and keep the charger constantly attached and plugged in...they are available thru any good motorcycle or auto specialty shop, I use the "Battery tender" brand. ($35.00)

Wash, wax, and use a good car cover before storage.

Keep your tires inflated correctly

[Jack21]

Have mixed opinions on this.

Pro block heater. You do live in Chicago. You get a lot of snow and ice, and winter temps can get down to - 20, -30f. It would be easier on the engine during morning warmups with a block heater. Might be nice to have. Anchorage, or Fairbanks, Alaska where it gets down to 40 or 50 below; oil gels, and gasoline won't ignite because it's too cold, that's a different story.

Against. Like MrFixit suggested, use a 5W30 synthetic in the winter, and you shouldn't need it. Just let the engine run a little, and let it begin warming up before driving. Hey, it's a Ford, not some tempermental British, French, or Italian engine. People drive Fords year round in Chicago, right?

[Bob In Ct]

Hey GS:
I run Mobil1 5W-30 year round. I have no pressure problems (50+ in summer at idle). I know there is a love affair with 20W-50 with these cars, but it's a mistake. The thicker oils do not make the trip through the long lines, the filter and the cooler very well.

Prove it to yourself. Take a few ounces of 5w-30 Mobil1 (or whatever synthetic) and your everyday 20W-50, put them in a couple of glass bottles and put them in your freezer. After a couple of hours take them out and compare the viscosities. If this does not convince you then so be it. When I called Ford Motorsports they told me to use 5W-30 all year round.

Also, can we leave the scripture to another forum

Bob

[Dominik]

I would just use oil that has been used in the 60s if your engine isn't a Lambo or Ferrari.
There are a zillion Ford engines driven in winter sharing the same oil pressure as an engine in a Cobra, probably the same CR as well.

There are a billion things one can do to improve engine life, but are they really necessary?
Instead working on things that may never fail, play with the kids.

Unless, of course you have a very radical engine.

And I would not let it idle until operating temperarure. I forgot why that is not good, because it is against the law where I originally came from, for polluting reasons.

If you put the car on jackstands don't let the wishbones hang down. Support them to take the strain of the axle bushings, unless your car features metal bushings.
One tire dealer actually advised me to overinflate the tires and store them in black plastic bags.

After all I think it is better if you drive araound from time to time.
As for the battery:I used to install it into my beat up truck, because it would carnk it - the other won't, only in summer.
A battery's life can be extended up to 12 years by using it. (tested by a reputable car manufacturer)

dominik