03-03-2004, 06:22 AM
|
 |
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Hickory,
NC
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427SC w/427so, ERA GT #2002
Posts: 1,106
|
|
Not Ranked
Dominik,
I'm wondering why you are moving the points on your upright and not the inner pivot point on the chassis. Seems like you're doing it the hard way unless you are starting from square one. With that said, the books mentioned are good. But a less expensive one that covers this subject in depth is HPBooks' How to Make Your Car Handle by Fred Puhn. Even Caroll Smith said Fred's book eliminated the need for him to do a suspension book.
"Simply" put, the rear rc should be either the same level or slightly higher than the front rc. Lower in the rear creates an inherent oversteer condition, which is what you must avoid. Too high, on the other hand, creates a mechanical lockup condition, also an oversteer condition. So don't go too high. Also, control arms should be as long as possible, the lower control arm being the longest. This and a near parallel-to-the-ground lower arm and a slightly angled down upper arm will provide an instant center that will create minimal camber change, an rc that's about where it should be and handling that's easy to tune with sway bars front and rear.
Oh, don't forget bump steer. You can get the rc right on, but if the suspension ends up with bump steer, especially toe out in bump, and you'll end up with an ill handling (dangerous) vehicle.
Good luck.
__________________
Tom
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough HORSEPOWER." Mark Donohue
|
Threaded Mode
