roll centers, rear uprights

[Dominik]

Steering

Ant,

good luck!
I develop a "street" version with locally available brakes for either 5-pin wheels or knock-off and will adapt the parts from a locally built race car for the "race" version, which will result in about three times the cost per "corner" (brakes, upright...)

If I knew then what I know now, I would not have duplicated the orig. 427 rear suspension setup. There is nothing wrong with it, but it is a pain to weld.
The idea from FORD was to get anti-squat, that the driver benefits under heavy acceleration. I wonder if they thought the same for racing, because here you don't have nearly as much wheel travel as on the street.

My steering arms (front) are 130 mm (5.1") long from the center of the lwr balljoint, but here is room for little variation. Just leave the steering rack brakets undrilled or move accordingly.

One should be able to correct bump-steer in that area. 427s had the 5/8" spacers under the rack to position it in the correct height. Must be a band-aid, the brackets could be higher to start with. Those spacer heigths can be changed to correct bump-steer when lowering the car.

I made sure bump steer is a minimum that the spacing between the tie rod end's knuckles is the same as the spacing between the a-arm chassis mounting points (24,5") 622,3 mm.

Not verified yet! Could be my weekend exercise...

I was afraid so that Milliken’s book is over the top for a regular. When I studied I never liked those engineering books. I learned more fom HP Books.

Handbrake:
My street brake if from a VW V6, a cable operating the piston. For serious braking I will use an upright with two calipers. Hydraulic handbrakes are not legal in Europe, in case I sell one to that side.

"What’s a":
a little biography from Peter in your mailbox.

Rock ‘n roll,
dom